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Suspension tuning is the black art of compact performance. With the majority of the world concerned about
making horsepower, handling has traditionally taken a back seat. However, as all serious geeks know, every fast,
well-rounded street car has as much suspension tuning as it does power tuning.
With the popularity of drifting, time attack contests and racetrack hot lapping on the rise, suspension tuning and
handling are becoming popular with enthusiasts who previously spent all their efforts making power.
Finding straight-line horsepower gurus to help you is relatively easy, but it's much harder to find an expert who
can make your car corner well. The solution? Make yourself the guru. If your automotive interests are greater than
a one-dimensional urge to blast straight down the 1320, then it's time to get to work.
In this series, we'll uncover the mysteries of car handling one at a time. This month, we begin with the four
fundamental first steps.
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How do we tune a car's handling balance? By manipulating the tire's slip angle. Slip angle is defined as the
difference between the direction the tire is moving and the direction the contact patch of the tire is pointing. At
extreme slip angles, the contact patch actually slides across the pavement.
The primary dynamic contribution to slip angle is the load placed on each individual wheel while cornering. A
greater load on a given wheel/tire results in a greater slip angle of that wheel/tire when subjected to a sideways
cornering force. A nose-heavy front-wheel-drive car has more weight and thus cornering load on the front tires,
which causes them to run a larger slip angle than the rear tires. The front tires start to slide first, causing
understeer. A rear-engine car has a larger proportion of its weight on the rear tires. The rear tires run a larger slip
angle so the natural tendency is to oversteer. A mid-engine car usually has the most even weight distribution with
near-equal slip angles from the front and rear tires. This creates more neutral handling.
Properly manipulating tire load and slip angle by controlling weight transfer is key to balancing the chassis. By
altering weight transfer and tire loading during cornering, much can be done to change a car's natural handling
tendencies. Can you make a nose-heavy front-wheel-drive car oversteer? Sure. Look at most successful front-
drive racecars; they oversteer like crazy.
How does a tuner manipulate tire loading and slip angle? By tweaking the spring rates, anti-roll bar rates, tire
sizing and pressure, and to a lesser degree, the shock damping. The first option a tuner has is to increase the tire
pressure. The harder a tire is inflated, within reason, the smaller slip angle it develops. In the case of a nose-
heavy front-wheel-drive car, if you add several psi to the front tires and take some pressure out of the rear, the
front tires will run a smaller slip angle while the rear tires' slip angle will increase. This alone can do quite a bit to
reduce understeer.
Changing the spring and anti-roll bar rates has a large impact on slip angle. Running a stiffer spring or anti-roll bar
on one end will cause more weight to be transferred onto the outside tire as the car tries to roll in a corner. The
softer end will compress and the more stiffly sprung end will resist compression, putting more weight into the tire
and causing it to run at a bigger slip angle.
The best thing to do for your understeering, front-wheel-drive car is run a bigger rear anti-roll bar to tune out
understeer. Conversely, stiffening the front suspension and increasing the rear tire pressures can tame oversteer.
Shocks can improve response and help balance the car right after the initiation of a turn; soft shocks get the car
to a steady point of weight transfer faster. When stiff, they can delay weight transfer. Thus, shocks affect how the
car feels at turn-in and also how it feels past mid-turn. A car with the shocks set fairly hard will turn in sharply. If
the shocks are set too hard, the balance might change later in the turn in an unpredictable way as the heavy
damping slows the body roll and weight transfer.
Tire sizing can also affect chassis balance. Installing a wider tire on the end that needs traction most is obvious.
Rear-engine Porsches have wider rear tires to help prevent oversteer. Powerful rear-wheel-drive cars tend to have
wider tires in the rear than in the front. Many front-wheel-drive autocrossers and road racers install a wider front
tire to get more front grip.
At the limit of adhesion, a car that slides all four wheels without brake or throttle input is considered ideal; it also
doesn't exist. Being able to provoke slight oversteer by lifting the throttle and more aggressive oversteer with
slight braking while cornering at the limit is useful as well. Being able to slow rotation with slight throttle
application makes front-wheel-drive cars easier to control.
Rear-wheel-drive cars should also be able to invoke oversteer with large applications of throttle. This kind of
balance gives the skilled driver the most options.
Step four: Reduce weight transfer
Weight transfer is the movement of weight from the inside to the outside wheels during cornering. Excessive
lateral weight transfer hurts handling. It's caused by centrifugal force working on the chassis' center of gravity,
which loads the outside wheels and unloads the inside wheels.
Contrary to popular belief, very little weight transfer can be attributed to lean in a corner. Even at large roll
angles, weight transfer due to roll is quite small. So lowering a car's center of gravity and widening its track width
will reduce weight transfer more effectively than reducing roll angle.
Lowering is best accomplished with shorter springs. The smartest approach is to use shorter springs and shorter-
bodied shock absorbers or struts that maintain stock compression travel at a lower ride height. Excessive lowering
can change suspension geometry, causing positive camber during roll and contributing to increased bump steer.
The easiest way to increase track width is to use wider wheels and tires that fill out the wheel wells. This also
increases the amount of rubber on the road. Using wheel spacers and wheels with a more positive offset can also
increase track width. Any positive change in track width, and therefore offset, increases the scrub radius. Scrub
radius (see diagram on page 128) is the distance from the centerline of the tire's contact patch to the point where
the steering axis intersects the ground, also known to regular readers as "The Dave Point." Increasing the scrub
radius allows forces generated by the tire more leverage to act on the steering. To the driver, this translates as
torque steer under acceleration and braking.
To minimize the change in scrub radius, it's important to try to increase wheel width to the inside as well as the
outside by paying close attention to the wheel offset. This puts more rubber on the road and increases the track
width while maintaining the same scrub radius.
Increasing track width also changes the motion ratio of the suspension, which effectively reduces spring and anti-
roll bar rates. Lastly, a very positive offset wheel puts a large strain on wheel bearings, ball joints and steering
linkage, making them wear much faster. All of these are good reasons not to go overboard with this method of
increasing track width. A good rule of thumb is it's safe to use the largest wheels and tires you can stuff in your
stock wheel wells by rolling the inner fender flange.
A good guideline is to increase the track width and lower the car more on the end that slides first in a corner. An
understeering, nose-heavy, front-wheel-drive car can use more track width and a lower ride height in the front. A
powerful rear-engine car can be lower and have more track width in the rear. This play on physics will help reduce
weight transfer in both cases.
In the next installment, we'll discuss more basic mods you can do to improve handling, some of the common
deadly sins of modifying your suspension and basic tips on suspension geometry.
A damper helps dissipate spring rebound energy by resisting suspension movement. When properly damped, the
spring and the car natural oscillations are attenuated (subdued) within one up and down cycle. This greatly
improves ride comfort, the tire's ability to maintain traction and the driver's control of the car. This is a rather
simplistic explanation of what a damper does. For all of the simplicity of its function, a damper has a huge effect
on a cars handling-perhaps more than any other single suspension component. We'll get more in-depth into how a
damper affects handling in future editions of this series.
How Does a Damper Work?
A modern damper is basically an oil-filled cylinder with a piston attached to a rod in it. One end of the damper
attaches to the body of the car and the other end attaches to the suspension. Simply put, a damper is a hydraulic
device that resists motion. The damper contains many valves and orifices to meter the flow of oil through the
piston and the body of the damper to control the motion with a resisting force otherwise known as damping. As
the piston and rod go up and down in the body of the damper when the suspension moves, the oil being displaced
has to move from one side of the piston to the other. The only way for the oil to get to the other side of the piston
is by forcing it through the orifices, which results in resistance in both compression and rebound movement of the
suspension.
This resistance damps out a suspension's natural oscillations caused by the springs. The damper converts boinging
energy into heat energy, which is dissipated into the air.
Generally, a damper has more resistance in rebound than compression, as its primary job is to reduce rebound
oscillations in the suspension, or more simply, prevent the suspension from springing back with as much force as
when it compressed.
The resistance in compression, or compression damping, helps assist the spring to prevent the car from harshly
bottoming out if a large bump is hit. The ratio of compression to rebound damping force for a car is usually about
70-percent rebound and 30-percent compression, although it can range from 50/50 to 90/10, depending on the
application.
To understand dampers fully, it's important to know about the different sorts of dampers and damper terminology.
Lets start with perhaps the most common term thrown around in the performance suspension world, the gas
shock.
TECH ARTICLES: Drag Shock Tech | Understanding Coil Springs | Shocks: Solving the Mystery | Leaf
Spring Tech | Oval Track Four Link Rear Suspension | Panhard Bars: The Rest Of the Story
BRAKE TECH ARTICLES: Things to think about when you are having braking problems | Understanding
brake fluid | Brake pad and rotor break In procedure | Rotor bedding- In | Brake pad terms | Troubleshooting
Of all the parts on a race car, springs probably have the most influence on handling. Understanding springs can
help you to better tune and trouble shoot your car.
If a spring's rate is linear (most racing springs have linear rates) its rate is not affected by the load put onto the
spring. For example, a linear rate spring rated at 500#/inch will compress 1" when a 500# weight is placed onto
the spring. If another 500 pound weight is put onto the spring the spring will compress another inch. At this point
the load on the spring has increased to 1000 pounds. The rate of the spring, however, remains constant at
500#/inch.
If the load put onto a spring increases the rate of the spring, the spring is said to have a progressive rate.
Progressive rate springs are sometimes used on torque arms to absorb engine torque. Keep in mind that the load
(or preload) put onto a progressive rate spring can greatly increase the rate of the spring.
Typically, progressive rate springs are made by varying the spacing between the springs' active coils. During
compression the close coils bottom out and deaden. This reduces the amount of active coils and spring rate
increases as a result.
Springs that are designed to include coils of different diameter or are wound using a tapered wire will also
produce a progressive rate.
Most coil springs are actually progressive to some degree -- as we will learn later!
TYPE II: Closed both ends but ground one end only (Conventional front
springs are normally this type).
TYPE III: Closed and ground on one end and open on the other end (Similar
to a conventional spring that has been cut).
The 3 springs types are used in different situations and provide different effects to rate. Since the designs are so
varied, it only follows that the dynamics of each design are also varied (more later). You must remember,
however, the only factors that affect spring rate are wire diameter, mean diameter, number of active coils.
2. Cost could be the prime consideration and by using a smaller diameter wire
and fewer coils (shortening the length of wire used) material cost is reduced.
Unfortunately, many racing springs are built this way and these springs can
cause a multitude of problems for the chassis tuner that we will cover.
Many racers mistakenly believe extra spacing between the coils of a spring indicates a preferable spring. While a
spring must have sufficient stroke capacity it also must have sufficient material to absorb the load put onto it. If
the spring's material is not sufficient for the load put onto the spring, the material will become over-stressed and
the spring will take a set (lose height). Handling, of course, is affected and the reason is not always apparent to
the racer unless he pays close attention to his springs.
Example: A typical asphalt late model set-up calls for a tremendous amount of load on the left rear spring
(upwards to 600 pounds more weight than on the right rear spring). When the chassis sees normal spring travel,
the cumulative load on the left rear spring produces a tremendous amount of stress in the spring. If the spring
does not have sufficient material to handle the stress (as many don't), it will take a set (as many do) and the car
will lose crossweight and tend to become loose off the corner. Excessive spacing between the coils of a spring is
usually an indicator of a potential problem with spring stress.
• Use springs that do not lean excessively (when positioned on a flat surface).
This indicates that the ends are ground parallel to each other. This reduces
the tendency for a spring to bow. You should check both ends.
• If a coil-over spring is rubbing the shock, try reversing the spring so the
bowed part of the spring is around the shaft where there's more clearance.
• Use coil-over springs that have straight sides rather than an hour glass
shape. This maximizes the clearance between the shock and spring.
• Use springs that are wound straight. You can roll the spring on a flat surface
to check for straightness.
There are special manufacturing techniques that help to keep bow to a minimum. AFCOILS are built for minimum
bow under all racing conditions.
Spring Checkers:
Unfortunately, we know of no reasonably priced spring checker that will accurately measure a spring for rate. We
have tested most brands of checkers and cannot give recommendation to any. However, there are steps and
procedures that can increase the reliability of the spring rate checkers commonly sold to racers. The accuracy of
a spring checker should be monitored. This can be done through the use of a checking spring. A checking spring
can be any spring that has been accurately rated at one inch (or smaller) increments up to a load close to the
total capacity of the checker. It is important that the free length of the checking spring remain constant. The rates
given by the checker can be compared to the known rates of the checking spring (at each increment of
compression). Any rate discrepancies between the checker and the checking spring should be noted and taken
into consideration when checking for rates of other springs.
AFCO can provide checking springs for this purpose. The repeatability of a spring rate checker should also be
monitored. Simply put an old spring in your checker and preload it to at least 20 lbs. Then compress the spring
and note gauge readings at 1" increments (or less) for the next three or four inches of spring travel. Tag the
spring with this information and use it occasionally to check for repeatability. Make sure the free height of the
spring remains constant. Do not use the spring if any change in free height occurs. A checking spring can also be
used to check for repeatability. A rate checker should consistently repeat rates to within 2.5%.
• Always use similar preloads when checking different brands of springs. It's
best to preload springs to a height equal to their loaded height (as installed
in the race car) before checking for rate. This simulates what the race car
sees for spring rate.
• Take dial indicator readings as close to the spring's center line as possible.
Readings taken very far from the springs center may not allow for any
rocking of the spring seat which distorts the actual amount of spring travel.
• Realize travel indicated stiff springs can flex the framework and fixtures of
portable checkers. Consequently, the spring compresses less than its
indicated & the rate shows softer than actual.
• The dial indicator should hold steady whenever rate readings are being
taken. If the indicator moves, suspect the units framework is flexing or there
is a problem with the units jacking device.
• Checkers equipped with load cells tend to be much more accurate than
checkers equipped with hydraulic gauges.
• Avoid checkers that allow the spring seats to rock in any manner or amount.
• When using a helix type spring seat make sure the spring is positioned
against the stop in the helix.
We have pointed out the more important features you need to consider when choosing and using coil springs.
You should now have some basic understanding of the differences between springs and how those differences
affect handling.
By knowing more about springs you will be able to confidently select springs that suit your application and expect
that they will give consistent and trouble free performance.