Roof Exploded View

Ridge shingles (Cut from three-tabs.)

Ridge vent (Molded plastic, three 48" lengths) Fly rafter (no bird's-mouth) Roof sheathing
J J DD

EE

Ridge board

Builder's felt Asphalt shingles Metal rake edge (Install over felt.) Metal drip edge Common rafter
CC

Ridge post
F F

Back soffit panel*

MM

Soffit panel*
L L GG

Rake board
I I

Gable strut

Fascia board (1x6 cedar) Soffit vents 2" dia. *Cut from extra siding material. Front soffit panel*
MM
HH

The Roof
40 Start building the roof by cutting two test rafters (CC) from 2x4s following the pattern in Fig. 19. Be sure to locate the notch (called a birds mouth) as shown in the drawing.

FIG. 19
RAFTER PATTERN NOTE: Test fit a pattern rafter before cutting others. 30 13!/4" 4" 70#/8" 51!/8" 30

a.BIRD'S MOUTH
DETAIL 30 90 Seat cut Common raffter
CC

41 Test fit the two rafters. With

the birds mouths seated on the top plates, the upper ends of the rafters should extend almost to the center of the ridgeline, leaving a 11/2"-wide gap for the ridge board (EE); see Fig. 19. (Note: If you need to make another set of test rafters, dont be afraid to deviate a little from the measurements weve provided slight variations in your wall framing may require it.)

Allow 1" vent gap on each side of ridge board.

4"
Plumb cut Plumb cut Seat cut

Ridge post
F F

EE

Ridge board

Gable GG strut

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 9 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

42 Once youre happy with the

test fit, mark your pattern rafter and use it to lay out the rest of the common rafters (CC); see Fig. 20. You will need a total of 12.

FIG. 20

FIG. 21

43 Using the same pattern, lay out four fly rafters (DD). The lengths and end cuts are the same for the fly rafters. But they do not need birds mouths. 44 Cut the angles on the ends of
all 16 rafters.

FIG. 22

45 Clamp all the common rafters (CC) together with the bottom edges up and the ends aligned. Use a circular saw and straightedge to gang-cut the 30 plumb cuts across the batch of rafters; see Fig. 21. 46 The angle for the seat cuts is
too sharp to cut with a circular saw, so cut these individually with a jig saw or hand saw.

FIG. 23

FIG. 24

47 Install the first rafters at both ends of the shed, screwing through the birds mouth and into the top plate; see Fig. 22. 48 The ridge board (EE) is made from a 12-ft. long 2x6. 49
Set the ridge board in place between the end rafters so it overhangs the shed at each end 18" at the front, 6" at the rear. Then screw the top ends of the rafters to the ridge board; see Fig. 23.

50 Mount the rest of the rafters

the same way, each positioned over a stud in the wall.

53 To create a weatherproof lap joint for the siding, nail metal Zflashing right above the siding on the front and back of the shed; see Fig. 25. 54
Add the rest of the siding to the shed to fill in the triangular spaces at the top of both the front and back walls.

FIG. 25
Upper siding

51 Cut a ridge post (FF) and two

gable struts (GG) from 2x4 stock for each end of the roof.

Paint this edge. Z-flashing Lower siding

Top plate
M

52

Install the ridge posts and gable struts; see Fig. 24.

Paint the siding now, while you have easy access to all of the panels.

55

Wall plate
L

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 10 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

56 Next, 12-ft. long cedar 1x6s are needed for the side fascia boards (HH).

FIG. 26

a.
Fascia !/2" wide groove cut at 30

FIG. 27

TIP

If you have a table saw or radial arm saw with a dado blade, cut an angled (30) 1/ "-wide groove in each side 2 fascia board to accept the soffit panels; see Fig. 26a. If you dont have the equipment to make this cut, the panels can just be nailed to the bottom of the rafters when they are installed later.

FIG. 28

FIG. 29

a.

57 58

Nail the fascia boards to the tails of the rafters; see Fig. 26.

Nail the fly rafters (DD) between the ends of the fascia board and ridge board.

59 Nail 1/2" plywood roof sheathing (JJ) in place; see Fig. 27. Start at the bottom edge and offset the end joints of the lower and upper panels as you work. Keep the end joints landing over rafters. At the top leave a 1" gap between the plywood sheathing and the ridge board. This space will allow air from inside the shed to circulate up through the ridge vent.

FIG. 30 FIG. 25

60 Cut four soffit nailers (KK) from 2x4s to a length of 703/8". These will provide a nailing surface to attach the soffit panels at the front and back of the shed. Nail the soffit nailers in place under the roof sheathing and against the siding.
Cut side soffit panels (LL) from the extra siding to fit into the grooves in the fascia boards. (Or, if you didnt add grooves, to fit up against the inside of the fascia boards.) Slide the panels in from the ends; see Fig. 28.

cedar to fit over the fly rafters, the roof sheathing, and the side fascia boards. Then nail the rake boards in place.

TIP

64 To aid air circulation inside

the shed, drill holes for press-fit soffit vents in the soffit panels (between each of the rafters); see the Tip Box in the next column and Fig. 29.

The size of soffit vents can vary, so drill a test hole in a piece of scrap and check it for fit before drilling holes in the soffit panels.

61

65

ridge vent to make the roof watertight; see A Roofing Primer on the next page.

Install the vents by pressing one into each hole; see Fig. 29a.

62 Cut front and back soffit panels (MM) to fit under the roof overhangs, and then nail them in place.

66 Before putting on the roof shingles, install metal or plastic drip edge. Nail it to the roof sheathing at the lower edge; see Fig. 30. 67
Add the felt, shingles, and

63 Cut rake boards (II) from 1x6

From Workbench Magazine
SKU 920124

page 11 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

A Roofing Primer:
The Basics of Three-Tab Asphalt Shingles
Water flows downhill. For seasoned roofers who take their craft seriously and beginners still trying to figure it all out, these three words represent the physics they must not forget. Everything else is just a footnote. All successful roofing techniques work by directing the flow of water rather than trying to stop it. A sloped roof plane is an obvious start, but thats not enough. You still need a watertight surface, and since it isnt practical to cover roofs with large one-piece shields, you have to use layers of smaller pieces. Ever y intersection is a potential leak. The key is arranging each new layer to overlap the one below it, so that the water follows its natural path down. After the sheathing and drip edge go on, staple on a layer of 15lb. or 30-lb. felt, a heavy asphaltimpregnated paper. Start at the drip edge and work up, overlapping each course. Cover the ends with metal rake edge. A starter course of shingles is next. You make these by cutting the tabs off full shingles and nailing on just the top portion with 11/4" roofing nails along the top edge. A course of full shingles goes directly over the starters, with the end joints staggered 4", an offset that is repeated with each new course. Nail these in the tar line just above each slit. Common asphalt shingles typically measure 12" tall. Once the starter and first full course are down, new layers cover about 7" of the shingles below, leaving a 5" reveal. The offset joints prevent water from getting underneath the shingles. To cover the ridge, cut shingles at the slits to get three square tabs, and nail them over the vent.

Builders felt is the first layer of protection for the sheathing. Cover the drip edge and work up. Add rake flashing at the ends.

A starter course allows a double layer of shingles at the bottom edge of the roof. Cut the tabs off regular shingles to make these.

Cutting Shingles
Cut here to make starter shingles. (Use top portion.)

Cut here to make ridge shingles.

Offset the end joints of each course 4" from the one below. You can use the remnants from cut shingles as starter pieces above.

After nailing on a ridge vent, cut some three-tabs into 12"-square shingles for the ridge. Install with a 5" reveal, same as on the slope.

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 12 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

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Windows and Trim

68 Install a window in the back wall following the window manufacturers instructions; see Fig. 31. Using an awning-style window will allow extra ventilation.

FIG. 31

FIG. 32

TIP

Cedar trim is added next. If youre using a different accent color for the trim, paint (or stain) it before you install it. Its faster and makes for less cleanup work.

FIG. 33

FIG. 34

68 Miter and nail 1x4 cedar as

window trim (NN) over the windows nailing flange; see Fig. 32. (Note: To help seal the window, apply caulk to the back of the cedar trim before nailing it to the siding.)

70 Cut 1x4 cedar to trim the corners of the shed (OO, PP). To fit tight against the soffits, the top ends will have to be cut at a 30 angle; see Fig. 33. Then nail them in place.

TIP

If you want the corners of the shed to look balanced, you will have to rip one piece of trim a little narrower. Leave the front/back trim (PP) full width. Then, to determine the width of the side trim (OO), deduct the thickness of the trim from the width of the front/back pieces.

73 Before installing the door trim, rout shallow mortises in the back of each vertical piece to nest over the hinge plates; see Fig. 34.(These will conceal the hinge plates and add some security. Lay out the mortises by marking the hinge locations and tracing around the plates.) 74 Nail the door trim (QQ) in place; see Fig. 35.

FIG. 35

71 Make and install a door; see

Adding a Door on page 14.

72 Cut trim (QQ) from 1x4 cedar

to go around the door. Miter it at a 221/2 angle at the upper corners.

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 13 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

Adding a Door
The size and style of your shed door can vary according to what has to get through it. The dimensions in these plans allow a lawn tractor with a 48" mowing deck to enter and exit comfortably. At nearly 60" wide, however, a single door would have been heavy and unstable. By using double doors made of 1x6 tongue-and-groove cedar, the weight of these doors stays manageable. To build the door, start by ripping the grooved edge off of two boards. Use one as the starter board for the first door, lining up the remaining slats by nesting the tongues and grooves together. Lightly clamp the panel together (face down), sight along the assembly to check flatness, and then screw Z-brace pieces to the backs of the tongue-and-groove boards. Assemble the second door the same way. Trim the doors to fit by cutting off the 45 corner at the top and routing a clearance rabbet along the bottom. Mount the hinges on the front face of each door, over the brace locations so the screws have more to grab. Then fasten the short leg of the hinge to the siding. Plane the inside edges of the door to fit if necessary. Finally, cover the hinges with cedar trim.
Z-braces (1x4 cedar) Astragal (1x2 cedar) Door slats (1x6 tongue & groove cedar) Door casing (1x4 cedar) Position hinges at Z-braces

Door latch

Screw horizontal and diagonal braces to each tongue-and-groove cedar door panel.

Scribe a template from the top of the door frame, then use it to lay out and cut the doors.

A wide, shallow rabbet allows the bottom edges of the doors to close against the shed floor.

For added security, we substituted a 1/4" carriage bolt for one of the hingeplate screws.

Use a shim (or an extra hinge plate) to create a 1/8" gap around each door edge.

We nailed cedar 1x2 stock in place for a door stop molding. Notch around the Z-bracing on the door.

A narrow wood strip, called an astragal, bridges the door gap. Fasten it to the back of the left-hand door.

The left-hand door has a slide bolt at the top and bottom (inset); the right door gets the latch.

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 14 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

Ramp Exploded View

OVERALL SIZE: 101/2"H 60"W 48"L
#8 x 2!/2" deck screw

Rear support rail

XX

Deck planks
YY

Ramp joist
WW

Ramp stringer
VV

#6 x 1!/4" deck screw (To secure front plank from below) JOIST DETAIL

RAMP CROSS SECTION REAR SUPPORT RAIL

WW XX

46#/4" 3!/2" 30!/4"

WW

RAMP JOIST

#/8" STRINGER DETAIL 50" 2" 22"

VV VV

RAMP STRINGER
VV

Ramp
Note: The ramp is optional, but it makes it easier to get wheelbarrows, lawnmowers, and other large rolling items in and out of the shed. Since the ramp sits at ground level and will get plenty wet, build it out of pressure-treated lumber.

10"

9!/2"

1" 48"

!/4"

77 Cut a rear support rail (XX)

from a 2x4 to a length of 57".

80 Screw the deck planks to the

top of the stringers and joists with #8 x 21/2" deck screws (except the very front plank, which is secured with a 11/4" deck screw from below.)

#/8"

75 Cut two angled stringers (VV)

to a length of 48" from a 2x10; see Stringer Detail. To help the ramp sit flat on the ground, cut a small instep out of the bottom edge of each stringer.

78 Assemble the stringers, joists, and rear support rail with No. 8 x 21/2" deck screws; see Ramp Exploded View above. 79 Cut 9 deck planks (YY) from
5/ 4

76 Cut two joists (WW) from a

2x4; see Joist Detail. Then cut a long shallow angle on one edge so the joists are 463/4" long.

x 6" pressure-treated decking to a length of 60"; see Ramp Exploded View above.

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 15 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

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OVERALL SIZE: 36"H 24"D 95"L

Back splash
EEE

Built-in Workbench Exploded View

#6 x 1!/4" Flathead screw

Notch around stud. (See Notch Detail) Bench top

DDD

Back rail
ZZ

TIP
BBB

Front rail
AAA

Cross rail Brace

CCC

a.
3" 3!/4"

!/4" Notch Detail

You can position the bench at any height, but one way to determine a good working height is to measure the distance from the floor to the crease on the inside of your wrist. Subtract from this the thickness of the bench top (5/8") and thats the distance the top of the frame should be mounted from the floor of the shed.

Built-in Workbench
Note: If you want a workbench in the storage shed, you could bring in a freestanding bench. But building one right into the storage shed will give you the work surface without really sacrificing the floor space below. If you want to build this workbench, use the measurements shown here for reference, but measure your shed just in case the wall framing varies.

83 Cut three cross rails (BBB) 87

from a 2x4 to 193/4" long each.

84 Nail the back rail, front rail, and cross rails into a frame. (Note: The front rail extends 3" beyond each end of the frame. This allows you to anchor it to the studs in the shed side walls.) 85 Screw the frame to the back and side walls with No. 8 x 21/2" deck screws. 86 To beef up the bench for heavy loads, cut a diagonal brace (CCC) from a 2x4. Cut the ends at 45 angles so the brace will be 353/8" long overall. Then screw it to the center cross rail and the wall stud with No. 8 x 21/2" deck screws.

The plywood bench top (DDD) can be cut from the leftover 5/ " plywood from the front loft 8 panel (BB). Cut it to width to match the depth of the bench frame. Cut it the same length as the front rail (95"). (Note: You will have to notch the front corners of the bench top to get it to fit around behind the wall studs; see Notch Detail above. It extends into the stud bays.)

81 Cut a back rail (ZZ) from a 2x4

to a length of 89"; see Exploded View above.

88 Screw the bench top down to the frame with No. 6 x 11/4" flathead screws. 89 Cut a backsplash (EEE) from a piece of 1x4 pine to fit between the walls of the shed. Then nail it to the studs at the back of the bench.

82 Cut a front rail (AAA) from a

2x6 to a length of 95".

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 16 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

SHOPPING LIST
WOOD
(4) 1x2 (3/4" x 11/2") - 8 Ft. (Cedar) (20) 1x4 (3/4" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (Cedar) (4) 1x4 (3/4" x 31/2") - 10 Ft. (Fir) (4) 1x6 (3/4" x 51/2") - 12 Ft. (Cedar) (12) 1x6 (3/4" x 51/2") - 8 Ft. (Tongue & Groove Cedar) o (36) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (Fir) o (6) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 10 Ft. (Fir) o (10) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 12 Ft. (Fir) o (11) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (PressureTreated) o (2) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 10 Ft. (PressureTreated) o (2) 2x6 (11/2" x 51/2") - 12 Ft. (Fir) o (3) 2x8 (11/2" x 71/4") - 8 Ft. (Fir) o (4) 4x4 (31/2" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (Fir) o (3) 4x4 (31/2" x 31/2") - 10 Ft. (PressureTreated) o (5) 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets - 1/2" CDX Fir or Pine Plywood o (3) 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets - 3/4" Pressure-Treated Plywood o (2) 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets - 5/8" ACX Fir or Pine Plywood o (12) 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets - 1/2" Siding For Ramp: o (2) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (PressureTreated) o (1) 2x10 (11/2" x 91/4") - 8 Ft. (PressureTreated) o (5) 1x6 (1" x 51/2") - 10 Ft. (Pressure-Treated 5/ Decking) 4 For Workbench: o (1) 1x4 (3/4" x 31/2") - 8 Ft. (Pine) o (2) 2x4 (11/2" x 31/2") - 10 Ft. (Fir) o (1) 2x6 (11/2" x 51/2") - 8 Ft. (Fir) For Bench Top use 5/8" Plywood left over from Front Loft Panel o o o o o

STORAGE SHED

SUPPLIES
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o (9) Concrete Pads (2" thick) (4) T-hinges (minimum 4" long) (2) Slide Bolts (minimum 3" long) (1) Door/gate Latch (5 lbs.) 6d Galvanized Nails (10 lbs.) 16d Galvanized Nails (6 lbs.) 11/4" Roofing Nails (2 lengths) 10 Ft. Z-Flashing (3 lengths) 10 Ft. Drip Edge (4 lengths) 10 Ft. Rake Edge (1 roll) 15# or 30# Builders Felt (6 bundles) Asphalt Shingles (3 lengths) 4 Ft. Ridge Vent (10) 2"-Dia. Soffit Vents (4 lbs.) #8 x 21/2" Deck Screws (2 lbs.) #8 x 15/8" Deck Screws (1 lb.) #8 x 11/4" Deck Screws (1) Andersen A41 Awning Window (2 Gal.) Solid Color Stain (for siding) (1 Qt.) Solid Color Stain (for trim)

TOOLS
o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Portable Circular Saw Jig Saw Router with Straight Bit Drill with: 1/ " Bit 8 3/ " Bit 16 1/ " Bit 4 Screwdriver Bit Countersink Bit Adjustable Hole Saw 4 Ft. Level Tape Measure Chalk Line Staple Gun Framing Square 8 Ft. Step Ladder Hammer, Chisel, Hand Plane Pipe or Bar Clamps Optional: Table Saw (or Radial Arm Saw) with Dado Blade

From Workbench Magazine

SKU 920124

page 17 of 17

2003 August Home Publishing

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.