Contemporary weaving technologies and modernisation of decentralised power loom sector By : I. N.

Rao Free Email Discuss Print Rate Article Download Article Article Article
Operating Cost/Meter (Conversion cost/meter)

New Rapier loom Particulars Rupees/meter Power Sizing cost Labour Cost Staff & Administration Spare parts 7 Maintenance Water for humidification Interest@9.0% Depreciation 10% annum Total conversion cost/meter 3.61 2.40 0.78 0.43 0.27 0.30 2.50 2.90 13.19

Second hand Rapier loom

Rupees/meter 5.68 2.40 1.21 0.71 0.63 0.30 2.45 3.00 16.38

Cost/pick 190 cm loom

18 NP

23 NP

Cost/metre will go down with Government interest subsidy, and power subsidy

Assumptions:

Yarn dyed shirting 150 cms Finished fabric Quality considered: 40 Ne warp 40 Ne weft 108 reed and 72 pick Power Cost Spare part maintenance Rs.30 lomm shift old loom Sizing cost Water Rs. 20/kg. Rs. 25/KL Rs. 4.0 unit Rs. 20 loom shift new looms

Technological comparison of Rapier looms and Airjet looms.

Both modern rapier looms and Airjet looms are capable to produce variety fabrics and are equipped with required attachments as per the customers requirement. Most of the looms are user friendly and easy to maintain because of the electronic controls.

To cater the needs of domestic market and export market the loom width ideally suited is 190 cms for single width weaving and 340 cms for multi-width width weaving or wider width weaving of sheetings and bed linen and furnishing fabrics

Features

Rapier looms

Airjet looms

1. 2. 3.

Capital cost /loom (Rs.) Pick insertion (a) 190 cms width (b) 340 cms width

12-22 Lakhs Single/multiple 400-650 r.p.m. 350 r.p.m. Moderate

16-24 lakhs Single/Multiple 800-1000 r.p.m 550-600 r.p.m Moderate Limited

4. 5.

Operating Cost/loom Flexibility to Weave

Versatile Different Type of fabric 6. 7. Suitability Yarn quality and weaving Moderate preparatory requirement Short/long runs Long runs Superior

8.

Power cost/loom

5.5-7.0KW

11 -12 Kw

Contemporary weaving technologies and modernisation of decentralised power loom sector By : I. N. Rao Free Download Email Article Discuss Article Print Article Rate Article

Key issues to be considered for the modernisation of weaving sector

 Capital cost of the machinery and equipments for the required product mix, keeping in view the return of Capital investment,( grey fabric cost/meter, cost/pick etc)  Flexibility of the equipment to meet the changing market demand, keeping in view the full utilization of the attachment of shuttleless looms such as dobby, jacquard, number of weft color selection  Operate the shuttleless looms at 85%-90% installed efficiency  Monitor the operating cost i.e. power, water, lighting, humidification, air in case of Airjet looms, lighting, spare parts etc.  Improve the infrastructure i.e. building, roads, transport and communication network, computer aided design facilities  Trained work force and training facilities, yarn testing and fabric testing facilities and market research, product development Appropriate shuttleless looms options are:

 New Rapier looms (Flexible or rigid) Indigenous or Imported  Airjet looms  Second hand rapier or Airjet looms, with a minimum residual life of 20 years and capable to work at the manufacturers recommended loom speed with minimum breakdowns

It is advisable to install new looms instead of second hand looms. To illustrate the advantage, Annexure I gives the comparison of new Rapier looms and second hand Rapier looms

Annexure I
Loom shed configuration:

Particulars No. of looms Area requirement Loom speed r.p.m. Production/day/24 looms

New Rapier loom 24 10,860 sq. feet 550 5,364 metres

Second hand Rapier loom 24 10,860 sq. feet 350 3413 metres

Capital Cost of the Project (Approximate) Rupees in Lacs

Capital Cost of the Project (Approximate) Rupees in Lacs Particulars Cost of one Rapier loom Total cost of 24 looms Value 20 480 Value 12 288

Ancillary equipment
Material handling Knotting unit Stabiliser Compressor Humidification plant Water softening plant Fabric Inspection machine Drawing in stands False ceiling/ducting Internal electricals TOTAL 7.0 15.0 2.0 2.0 18.0 1.5 2.5 1.0 4.0 12.0 545 .0 7.0 15.0 2.0 2.0 18.0 1.5 2.5 1.0 4.0 12.0 353.0

Contemporary weaving technologies and modernisation of decentralised power loom sector By : I. N. Rao Free Email Discuss Print Rate Article Download Article Article Article
Operating Cost/Meter (Conversion cost/meter)

New Rapier loom Particulars Rupees/meter Power 3.61

Second hand Rapier loom

Rupees/meter 5.68

Sizing cost Labour Cost Staff & Administration Spare parts 7 Maintenance Water for humidification Interest@9.0% Depreciation 10% annum Total conversion cost/meter

2.40 0.78 0.43 0.27 0.30 2.50 2.90 13.19

2.40 1.21 0.71 0.63 0.30 2.45 3.00 16.38

Cost/pick 190 cm loom

18 NP

23 NP

Cost/metre will go down with Government interest subsidy, and power subsidy

Assumptions:

Yarn dyed shirting 150 cms Finished fabric Quality considered: 40 Ne warp 40 Ne weft 108 reed and 72 pick Power Cost Spare part maintenance Rs.30 lomm shift old loom Sizing cost Water Rs. 20/kg. Rs. 25/KL Rs. 4.0 unit Rs. 20 loom shift new looms

Technological comparison of Rapier looms and Airjet looms.

Both modern rapier looms and Airjet looms are capable to produce variety fabrics and are equipped with required attachments as per the customers requirement. Most of the looms are user friendly and easy to maintain because of the electronic controls.

To cater the needs of domestic market and export market the loom width ideally suited is 190 cms for single width weaving and 340 cms for multi-width width weaving or wider width weaving of sheetings and bed linen and furnishing fabrics

Features 1. 2. 3. Capital cost /loom (Rs.) Pick insertion (a) 190 cms width (b) 340 cms width 4. 5. Operating Cost/loom Flexibility to Weave

Rapier looms 12-22 Lakhs Single/multiple 400-650 r.p.m. 350 r.p.m. Moderate

Airjet looms 16-24 lakhs Single/Multiple 800-1000 r.p.m 550-600 r.p.m Moderate Limited

Versatile Different Type of fabric 6. 7. Suitability Yarn quality and weaving Short/long runs Moderate Long runs Superior

preparatory requirement

8.

Power cost/loom

5.5-7.0KW

11 -12 Kw

Contemporary weaving technologies and modernisation of decentralised power loom sector By : I. N. Rao Free Email Discuss Print Rate Download Article Article Article Article
Technical specifications of shuttleless loom

Feature 1. 2. 3. 4. Loom width Yarn range

Rapier Loom 190-380 cms spun yarn Nm 1-2 Filament 22-4000 Denier

Airjet Loom 190-380 cms spun yarn Nm 3-170 20-500 denier 1-8 colour Photoectric

Filling selection Filling stop motion Shed formation Cam

1-12 colour Piezoelectric

8 cam Electronic 12-20 shafts Electronic Electronic Electronic controlled Automatic Independent Sumo motor start mark preventor Microprocessor control wide range Electronic Leno, Tucked, Melt Suitable

10 cam 10-16 shfts Electronic Electronic Rotary selvedge motion Automatic Sumo motor start mark preventor Microprocessor control Limited range Electronic Tucked, Leno, Melt Suitable

5. Dobby Jacquard 6. 7. 8. 9. 10 11. 12 13. 14 15 let off 7 take up Selvedge motion Pick finding Machine drive Optional Machine controls Ability to handle Fancy weft Weft control Selvedge formation Multiwidth weaving

Strategy to be adopted by the small-scale sector to optimize the production and control cost

1. Procure the imported/indigenous shuttleless looms ready to weave with required cams for plain, Twill or sateen weave with healds, heald frame. Warp beam, drop pins can be procured locally from reputed manufacturers to bring down the capital cost

2. Humidification system should be for minimum 24 looms to keep the cost low. 3 .In case of Airjet loom compressor should be for running 24-48 looms to reduce the cost. Air should be free of moisture and oil.

4. Employ contract skilled labour for knotting /drawing/loom cleaning to bring down the labour cost 5. Arrange to have the warp beam sized from reputed sizers.

6. Shuttleless loom utilization should be 95% and above 7. Maintenance personnel can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs

8. Engineering service can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs 9. Common spare parts storage to bring down the loom downtime 10 Insist on loom manufacturers representative to do the loom audit and maintenance check up

11. Cloth inspection/packing should be on contract basis

To read more articles on Textile, Industry, Technical Textile, Dyes & Chemicals, Machinery, Fashion, Apparel, Technology, Retail, Leather, Footwear & Jewellery, Software and General please visit http://articles.fibre2fashion.com

To promote your company, product and services via promotional article, follow this link:
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/services/article-writing-service/content-promotion-services.asp