travel<BUKHARA

92 www.travelife.biz OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2010

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RECAPTURING
BUKHARA
CAROLINE EDEN captures scenes
from the last great caravan city
F
or centuries Bukhara glimmered remote in the Western
consciousness: the most secretive and fanatical of the great
caravan-cities, shored up in its desert fastness against time and
change, wrote Colin Thubron in his book, The Lost Heart of Asia. After
reading this, I longed to visit, yet meeting the allure of a thousand-
and-one nights scenery, exotic bazaars, and the temptation of being
oll-the-beaten track entaileo serious planning ano saving. But nnallv
it was done and I began my journey overland from Tajikistan, through
the Ian mountains. to Uzbekistan. ano nnallv to Bukhara.
A land unchanged
Thubron was right: the hallowed city of Bukhara is indeed unchanged.
It is also exquisite. It glows softly in the peaceful morning, when the
tops of minarets and medrassahs (schools) are lit in gold and rose pink
by the sun and the faithful masses enter. And in the amber blush of a
late afternoon, it is even more majestic, as the sun dips behind the Ark
Fortress.
contribution to developing creative photography in Bukhara.
I dropped a crumpled note next to it, subsequently spending an
enjovable hour alone nicking through a rough loloer ol color ano
monochrome shots, mostly portraits of Central Asian faces. Classical
Uzbek and Tajik music played in the background and it was cool under
the arches away from the bright Bukharan sunlight.
As I was collecting a selection of prints to take home - two colour
portraits of Afghan potters, one of a laughing man in an Uzbek hat
and one of a donkey pulling two ladies and their materials through
the snowShavkat himself appeared in the doorway. Dressed like a
beatnik, all in black, with round David Hockney style spectacleshe
held his hand out for me to shake and we chatted about his gallery and
studio.
There are a lot of photos of the Bukharan Jewish community
here, and other minority groups, I said, leading him into a discussion
of why he chose these particular people to photograph.
Yes, because they will not be here for long, Shakvat explained.
The synagogue only has a small congregation now. Some have gone
to Israel, others to America. His work is a chronicle of the modern
social history of Bukharaand perhaps the lone voice since most other
writers and photographers prefer chronicling the past than the present.
I parted with US$ 50 for four prints, ten postcards and one CD,
knowing that this small amount was great value for what I had in the
bag, while adding nicely to the leopards money box.
Tea and hospitality
Stepping out into the sun, I relied only on my feet to take myself
around the old city where most of the alleyways are far too narrow to
accommodate anything other than man and beast. I quickly snapped
a few shots in the bazaars, aware that all eyes were watching me. My
memorv caro quicklv nlleo up with colorlul photos ol beautilul Ikat and
suzani textiles and cushion covers. Then, exiting one bazaar, I decided it
was time for tea.
I had heard on the travelers grapevine about Silk Road Spices
(www.silkroadspices.org) and it was also listed in my guidebook as a
premier collee ano tea spot. Haro to nno as anvwhere is in Bukhara.
which lacks clear street signs), I was parched by this point. This smart
little cafe, with wood-carved doors, pretty waitresses and quite a few
tourists, offers the weary traveller a variety of drinks as well as plov, the
national dish of rice simmered in a stew of meat and vegetables.
Stirring nabat (yellow rock sugar) into my china cup of Iranian
saffron tea, I chatted with the manager, Mirfayz Ubaydov, who
explained to me that his family has been in the spice business for about
600 years.
Is tourism growing? I asked him.
He smiled and slowly nodded. Tourists have only been coming
in the past 14 years, but now we can really see the change, he said.
People now come from all over the world.
A short stroll around the narrow lanes presents the traveller with
hundreds of photo opportunitiesan old man dozing on a battered
tapchan (tea bed), dark-haired ladies sweeping by in long, maroon velvet
robes, fantastic turquoise tile work on ancient building walls. In my stay
of a few nights, I tried to take as many good shots as I could manage as
an amateur photographer.
As the old city has not embraced the lure of malls, the coffee
culture or other whimsical entertainments of life elsewhere, the city
appears as a living museum, protected by its status as a UNESCO
world heritage site. The result is few cars, many animals, winding
alleyways that hold numerous secrets, and even more locked doors.
Visitors are not exactly eyed with suspicion, but there is a sense of
being an outsider, for Uzbekistan is not an overtly friendly Islamic
country like Syria or Jordan. Instead it is Soviet style Islam: a little
more formal, a little less smiley.
Portraits of modern culture
The staff at my ancient caravanserai (travelers inn), however, were
absolutely charming and willing to help the excited traveller. I stayed at
the Mekhtar Ambar, an ancient but spotlessly clean little inn with only
11 rooms.
Early, before the heat began to rise up from the dusty lanes, I went
out in search of some modern culture to counteract the weight of
hundreds of years of history that surrounded me. Following a narrow
hall that led away from a sun-faded bricked courtyard to the Bukhara
Photography Gallery run by Shavkat Boltaevone of Uzbekistans
most celebrated photographers. I noticed that the walls were covered
with prints of students who had travelled from all over the world to
spend time at the studio and sharpen their skills.
Entering a large, chilly underground chamber, a gaudy, ceramic
leopard roared from behind piles of old camera equipment. Taped to
its mouth was a note that reaoYour oonation will make a signincant
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2010 www.travelife.biz 93
One version of the traditional plov
Silk road spice stand
The great Bukhara outdoors
The scale of ancient
grandeur: how a
Bukhara mosque
dwarfs the faithful
BUKHARA
94 www.travelife.biz OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2010 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2010 www.travelife.biz 95
Mirfayz insisted that I sample his particular plov. Not needing much
encouragement I tucked in. There are apparently over 100 different
versions of this national dish, each one containing rice and carrots but
differing in added extras such as quince and raisins. I used a fork, but
traditionally it is eaten with the right hand and is rolled into bite-sized
balls.
Genuine Uzbek hospitality means that it will not be long until the
traveler hears the phrase have you tried our national dish? Plov is
ubiquitous. And as a traveler in Uzbekistan, youd better try to like it or
else your options are seriously limited.
I ended the meal with another cup of tea. To drink tea in
Uzbekistan is to take part in a long-standing tradition. Not only does it
quench the thirst but it also cuts through greasy food, aiding digestion.
The plov here, for instance was good, but it is a heavy dish and the
palate needs to be cleansed. Hot green tea is available everywhere.
No matter where vou are in the citv. vou will nno ollers ol kok chai
(green tea).
Of iron curtains and iron
Eating a last piece of delicious halva (a sweet confection), I drifted back
through the bazaars, my eyes constantly drawn to some of the Islamic
worlds most audacious buildings. Everywhere I looked, another
photographic opportunity leapt out at mea graceful medrassah arch,
the shadow of a minaret. The Soviets may have tried to snuff out
Islam, but it is clear that in the here and now it reigns supreme. The
little tables that line the alleys are choc-full of Soviet memorabilia
simultaneously tacky and wonderfulold hats, medals, belts, and
badges, now stripped of their context and turned into tourist kitsch.
There are also piles of iron ware for the curious. Nothing suitable
for carry-on luggage, of course, but pichok knives, chased metal plates,
ano ewers are solo in abunoance bv sunnower seeo-chewing salesmen.
The men of Central Asia have long had a reputation as skilled
blacksmiths, and Timur, the most popular male name, means iron.
This wealth of iron souvenirs is therefore unsurprising. When buying,
haggling is de riguer but gentle bartering is best lest you risk offense.
Structures standing proud
I headed towards Lyabi-Haus, the centre of the Old City. This is where
you will witness other snap-happy tourists en-masse, drawn to the
splendid architectural preserves. Lyabi-Haus means ensemble near the
pool in Persian, and true enough the plaza is centered around a pool
and made up of different monumental structures.
First, the splendid gold, blue and mint-colored Nadir Divanbegi
Medressah, which was originally built as a caravanserai, stands proud
and demands attention from all. Looking to the west, through mulberry
trees and old men sipping tea, lies the Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka, a
rectangular eoince renecteo in a pool that lies opposite. Up close I
could discern the phoenixes and white deer on the entrance portal.
There is a feeling of being dwarfed in Bukhara. These mighty
structures weigh down on the faithful and the visitor alike. Their power
cannot be underestimated.
Perhaps Bukharas most photographed structure is a short walk
from the Lyabi-Haus, the Kalon minaret. Standing 47 meters tall, it
was the tallest minaret in Central Asia when it was built in 1127. Its so
magnincent that Genghis Khan reporteolv spareo the structure when
he ransacked the city. However, he destroyed the original mosque that
lay at the foundations. In the 16
th
century, the Kalon Mosque was built
to accommodate 10,000 people. Rather depressingly, it was used as a
warehouse during Soviet days. Today it has regained its original use as
a functioning mosque that is open to both men and women visitors. I
wafted around the central square, my neck straining at the enormous
sky-reaching structures that surrounded me.
Meanwhile, the luminous Mir-i-Arab Medrassah nearby is still
operational and full of students, but off-limits to tourists. However,
the faade itself is so fantastic that it deserves serious browsing time.
Knowing Id never be allowed inside, I opted for a scenic perspective
to take in the incandescent blue domes and intricate tile work. Making
my way back towards the mighty minaret, the distance helped me
appreciate the splendor more. I happily clicked away whilst marveling
at the enormity of the structures before me.
I was overwhelmed by it all. I sat for a moment, completely
undisturbed by passing locals. Then suddenly, I heard the rhythmic
walking of soldiers marching, closer, louder. For a moment my mind,
perhaps woozy from the heat, conjured up Genghis Khans armies
encroaching on the city, ready to pillage and destroy. Jolted out of my
romantic daze, my gaze was met by a different sort of army: 50 teenage
boys, chattering away, identical in their matching football kits.
(Right) Kalon Minaret and Bukhara
Mosque. (Below) Local shoes for sale
in the covered market
NAVIGATE
YOURSELF
Bukhara
NEED TO KNOW
Bukhara is one of Central Asias oldest cities, full of
stunning mosques and medrassahs, and a historic
center that has been listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Located along the commercial Silk
Road, the city is home to the most skilled artisans,
15th century medrassahs, teahouses, and spice
markets. It is also known as a town museum with
over 140 architectural monuments dating back to
the Middle Ages.
TRAVELERS CHECKLIST
Visa requirement: Visa required. Inquire at
Consulate General of Uzbekistan in Bangkok,
Thailand in 138/5 Thoglor Soi 11, Sukhumvitt 55,
Klongtan, Wattana Bangkok; Tel (66) (2) 712-8883;
Email anchor@uzbinbkk.org; www.uzbinbkk.org
Exchange rate: US$ 1 = 1,936.99 Uzbekistan
Sum
Time difference: The Uzbekistan time zone lies
six hours behind the Philippines
Embassy of Philippines: The Philippines has no
diplomatic presence in Uzbekistan.
HOW TO GET THERE
;OLYLHYLUVKPYLJ[PNO[ZMYVT4HUPSH[V)\ROHYH
International Airport. The national carrier,
<aILRPZ[HU(PY^H`ZOHZKHPS`PNO[Z[V[OLJHWP[HS
Tashkent from major European and Asian airports.
www.uzbekistan-airways.biz
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit is during spring (May to June)
and autumn (September to November). Harvest
time is in fall when markets are bustling with
activity and fresh produce. The merry and festive
Silk and Spice Festival is held every May. The
months of March and November are the best time
for trekking.
WHAT TO DO
7PJ[\YLSPML The
Bukharan Photo
Gallery is perhaps
the only place that
portrays modern
Bukharan life
amidst centuries-old
history surrounding
the visitors. Open
daily 10 AM to
7:30 PM. Ensemble
Gaukushon,
Karavansaray
Olimjon, Bukhara.
,_WLYPLUJL
Uzbek culture
at the Folklore &
Fashion Show.
The musical show
features popular
Uzbekistan culture
and adds a human
dimension to Bukharas architecture and history.
Entrance is US$ 5 per person. Nadir Divanbegi
Medrassah near Lyabi-Hauz.
WHAT TO READ
Uzbekistan: The Golden Road to
Samarkand, published by Odyssey Books &
Guides (www.odysseypublications.com) and
Steppe Magazine which features articles, photo
essays and in-depth features on the culture of
Central Asia (www.steppemagazine.com)
WHERE TO EAT
Silk Road Spices Tea House, one of the most
popular chaikhanas or tea houses, serves spice
and herbal tea, including saffron and ginger tea,
green and black tea, coffee with cardamom, and
traditional sweets (halva, qandalat, and nabat). The
spices used for the tea are all local grown and are
still traditionally prepared. The tea house is now
owned by Mirfayz Ubaydov, whose family has
been involved in spice trade for 650 years.
5 Halim Ibodov Street; www.silkroadspices.org
Nughay Caravanserai Wine Tasting offers
a fantastically
eccentric wine
shop complete
with tasting rooms.
The shop is open
from 11 AM to 9
PM. Bakhautdin
Naqshband 78.
Lyabi-Hauz is
perhaps the best
place to dine
al-fresco and to
sample some
shashlik (kebab),
kovurma laghman
(with meat and
tomato sauce),
or the traditional
plov (one-pot rice dish). The place, which was
built around a pool in 1620 and surrounded by
mulberry trees, is a quiet and peaceful corner in
town and where old Uzbek men play chess. Old
Town, Bukhara.
WHERE TO STAY
HIGH-END
Malika Bukhara Hotel, which opened in
2005, provides modern and comfortable rooms
within walking distance from the Lyabi-Hauz
historical complex. All 34 rooms are large and
comfortable with standard amenities and Wi-Fi.
Enjoy authentic Bukharan dishes while lounging
in the private gardens. Double occupancy rooms
rates start from US$ 65 per night, including
breakfast. 25 Shaumyana Street, Bukhara;
Tel (998)(65) 224-6256, www.malika-bukhara.com
MID-RANGE
Hotel Amelia is family-run hotel that still
maintains its historic charm. A former Jewish
merchants house, it has 10 Bukharan-style double
rooms with king-sized beds and air conditioning.
The house also has a traditional yard with tall
columns and a beautiful view of the historic
Minaret Kalon, one of the most impressive
monuments in Bukhara. Double occupancy rates
start from US$ 50 a night, including breakfast.
1 Bozor Hoja, Bukhara; Tel (998)(65) 224-1263;
www.hotelamelia.com
BUDGET
Hotel Mekhtar Ambar is next to Lyabi Khauz,
)\ROHYHZOPZ[VYPJHSJLU[LYHUKQ\Z[]LTPU\[LZ
away from Chor Minor Medrassah. The hotels
building used to be an old medrassah from the
19th century. All 11 rooms are decorated with
local furniture, antiques, plush carpets, and
suzanea decorative needle work on hand-made
fabric. No two rooms are alike, but all come with
TV and air conditioning. Room rates start at
US$ 35 a night for twin sharing, including
breakfast. 91 B. Nakshbandi Str., Bukhara; Tel (998)
(93) 960-0085; www.hotel-mekhtarambar.com
Russian
memorabilia
for sale in
the Russian
covered market