odal is a wood pulp based cellulosic fibre, made out of pure wooden chips from the beech tree,

technically as the European Schneider Zelkova tree. While viscose rayon can be obtained from the wood pulp from a number of different trees, Modal uses only beech wood, thus it is essentially a variety of viscose rayon; a generic name for modified viscose rayon fibre that has high tenacity and high wet modulus. Modal was first developed by Austria based Lenzing AG Company who trademarked the fabrics name, but now many manufacturers make their own versions. It was initially imported from Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Germany; but now for the Indian market, it is catered by Lenzing, Austria, which has tied up with Rajasthan Textile Mills.

2. It is more hygroscopic in nature i.e. absorbs 50 per cent more water than cotton, hence, keeps wearer cool during summers and warm during the winters 3. Modal is as strong as polyester with excellent wear resistance Modal: Aesthetically appealing 1. Garments made from Modal fabrics can benefit by acquiring a desirable clean, soft touch finish on the surface of finish. Its smoothness makes hard water deposits less likely to adhere to the surface (say lime from hard water), so the fabric stays soft through repeated washings. Thus the fabrics have a truly pleasant touch and are comfort to wear 2. Unlike cotton, Modal fabrics show more resistance to shrinkage, has good moisture regain and air permissibility, thus considered best for exercising clothing and health suit 3. Reduced growth of bacteria when compared to cotton, if both stored for the same long period of time; and doesnt age like cotton 4. Modal has an advantage that it is less likely to fade or to form pills as a result of friction 5. Modal imparts colour brilliance to fabrics and garments which remain bright and true, also retains its appearance after several washes as shown in figure below. This is because Modal takes up colour uniformly, deeply, and fast which brings out the natural brilliance. Modal also maintain anti crease properties (in blends) and have relatively easy care.

History of Modal
Modal fibres staple versions were initially developed in 1930s for industrial textiles (in tires, conveyor belts and hose pipes), and for blending with rapidly growing synthetics. Changes in viscose rayon processing such as spin conditions; chemical solutions and stretching sequences produced viscose rayon fibres with increased crystalline and thus greater strength. Additional developments in Japan in 1951 by S. Tachikawa led to the production of Modal fibre with high wet modulus called polynosic fibre.

Definition
Modal fibres are defined in International Standard ISO 206: 999 (E) as high wet modulus, high breaking strength regenerated cellulose fibres produced by using particular viscose rayon, and regeneration bath compositions which allows greater molecular orientation during stretch and coagulation of the fibres. Again, Modal as defined by the International Bureau for Standardisation of Manmade Fibres (BISFA) is a distinct viscose rayon fibre genre, which has a higher wet modulus and satisfies a minimum value of tenacity in the wet stage at five per cent elongation.

Characteristics of Modal
In many ways Modal acts like cotton, but it also have some significant advantages over cotton. Modal: Functional utility 1. Modal displays high dimensional stability, both for low shrinkage and low unrecoverable extension. These benefits can be attributed to the morphological structure of Modal, which imparts excellent elastic properties. It blends beautifully with almost all textile fibres, viz. cotton, wool, silk synthetics and elastane
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Modal: After 25 washes

Cotton: After 25 washes

Physical parameters of Modal fibre

The all skin high tenacity yarns consist of finer and more uniform texture. When coagulation and stretch occur together, before regeneration and crystallisation of cellulose, structure has a fibrillar texture. The cross section is either circular or bean shaped.

 Promodal: Produced by modal and Lyocells fibres blend of 65/35 per cent ratio. Keep cool, 100 per cent natural and harmony is very well with skin. Expel steam to outside, dimension stability is well. Presents to lower pilling value, better using values and easy clean Modal/Nylon: Modal/nylon blend ratio is 80/20 per cent. Blend has a wellknown characteristics of modal which softness, do not disturbance to skin and also higher wet and dry tensile strength fastness values, easy iron
Microscopic view of Modal fibres

The cross section analysis of both Modal and viscose rayon fibres are analysed and are shown in figure below:

Applications of Modal Modal is preferred, where comfort and aesthetics, brightness and naturalness are demanded. Today Modal is widely used in clothing as a replacement for cotton, with an annual production of more than 4,000 tonne with the Indian textile industries. Modal may be used on its own or in a blend with cotton, wool and other synthetic fibres viz. spandex etc. 1. It is very soft and thus is popular for both clothing and house hold textiles 2. Used for tablecloths and bed linen (beddings), bathrobes, upholstery and in home furnishings. Also used as outerwear, sportswear and leisurewear.

Regular viscose rayon

Modal fibre

Physical parameters compared with other fibres

A typical comparison of properties of high wet modulus viscose rayon with commonly used convectional fibres is as follows: Blending of Modal The fibre cross-section of Modal is similar to that of cotton ensuring that Modal is an optimum blending partner. Modal cannot only be blended with cotton to get optimum results. Like no other cellulose fibre, Modal harmonises with other fibres in a simple and uncomplicated manner, to give the desired properties. Modal/cotton: Both fibres based cellulosic and being natural presents 100 per cent naturalness. Blend makes cotton soft and supple. It also improves the fabric uniformity. Modal and cotton fibres colour fastness resembles to provide uniform appearance which impart sheen and colour brilliance in the final product Modal/wool: Modal/wool blend fabric presents climatic, high comfortable, softer, bright and woollen characteristics thanks to combination of wool fibres warm, softer, stuffed handle, taking shape with steam and modal fibres superior characteristics Modal/Linen: Brightness, softer handle and comfortable characteristics of modal and cooler and special effect of linen shows on blend. Presents to comfort and elegant characteristics for long time by superior tenacity Modal/Polyester: Modal/polyester blend yarn presents brightness, softer handle and comfort with easy clean and higher tenacity characteristics. Fabric has well-fitting structure Modal/Acrylic: Has a softer handle and silky surface. Presents to higher comfort. Pilling is lower Modal/Tencel: Modal/tencel blend presents better dimension stability; good handle and comfort characteristics due to perfect combination of blend
Used as Leisure wear Comfortable sportswear

3. Also find applications in undergarments and toweling purposes 4. Lenzing Modal is used exclusively for soft flowing tops and lingerie; exclusively in knitwear markets having high-end apparel/non apparel products. 5. For socks and stockings, as well as in technical applications, such as tire cord, abrasive ground fabric, rubber cloths and other coating supports Advantages Absorbs 50 per cent more water than cotton Takes dye as well as cotton Lightweight fabric Has the appearance of silk: Lustre/sheen/gloss Holds colour when machine washed in warm water Fabric isnt stiff, doesnt become rigid when machine washed Can be repeatably washed and holds soft and smooth characteristics

Properties
Density (g/cm3) Moisture regain (per cent) Tenacity (GPD) Bkng elongation ( per cent) Work of rupture (mN/tex) Initial modulus (mN/tex)

High-wet modulus Modal

1.53 11.8 per cent 2.2-4.0 dry 3.8-5.0 wet 7.0 per cent dry 8.5 per cent wet 11.5 13300

Viscose rayon
1.51 12.5 per cent 1.2-3.0 0.5-0.8 15-30 per cent 30 per cent 25 8850

Commonly used Cotton Polyester

1.55 8.5 per cent 3.0-5.0 4.0 3-10 per cent 10 per cent 20-23 5450 1.39 0.4 per cent 3.0-5.8 2.4-3.0 19-55 per cent 47 per cent 8830-10150

Wool
1.31 13.5 per cent 0.8-2.0 1.0 20-40 per cent 31 per cent 4300

As for 1.3 dtex Modal fibre, given by Ford and Courtaulds

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 Soft and smooth against the skin Doesnt pile as much as cotton Resistant to fading Resistant to shrinkage Resistant to mineral build up when washed again and again e.g. lime from hard water Blends are more crease resistant Doesnt age like cotton Disadvantages 100 per cent Modal requires ironing 100 per cent Modal has tendency to pile due to long fibres Modal is more expensive than viscose rayon and cotton Processing the beech wood into a cellulose fibre is a man made process, which uses more energy than processing natural fibres Caring for Modal Modal fabric needs to be cleaned gently to avoid damage and help the fabric stay flexible and colourfast. When well cared for, this fabric is highly durable. Some modal fabric items are delicate and should be hand washed in cool water with a mild detergent, wrapped in a towel to squeeze out the water, and then dried flat in the shade. Modal should not be washed or dried in high heat or subjected to bleach and other harsh cleaners. Stains on modal fabric can be removed with hand scrubbing and a gentle detergent. The fabric should not be soaked or vigorously rubbed to remove stains. The earlier a stain is treated, the better; when a stain is brand new, blotting with cool water can sometimes flush out the stain, especially if a gentle detergent is added to encourage the stain to lift. If the fabric becomes wrinkled, it can be ironed at a low temperature. Fabric that is dulled may benefit from ironing to restore the sheen by smoothing the individual fibres. To avoid wrinkling while traveling, modal garments can be rolled up as opposed to folded. Modal garments should not be left on hangers as the prolonged hanging can cause the garments to distort and may also

break some of the fibres, weakening the garment and causing it to lose some of its elasticity. Such garments should be stored flat or rolled to protect the fabric while also avoiding wrinkles.

Environmental benefits of Modal

University of Utrecht in Netherlands carried out a life cycle analysis of Modal fibres i.e. evaluated all of the environmental impacts caused by making fibres. The topics examined were over fertilisation, the excess acidity of air, water and soil consumption, global warming and the effects on human health. Another important point was the consumption of non-renewable resources, as in the case, is raw material wood. Utrecht came to conclusion that with Modal, the toxic load on fresh water and soil is 100 times less as compared to cotton. The yield of Modal is upto six times higher; and for their cultivation, needs 10-20 times less water in contrast to cotton. Since Modal uses beech wood i.e. sustainably grown forest plantations, thus the land could not have been used for any other purpose. Cotton on other hand requires agricultural land. Modal is 100 per cent bio-degradable fabric and can be recycled into lesser worth products e.g. filling materials.

Conclusion
Modal, the second-generation viscose fibre, currently called the new "wonder" fabric, fulfils man's eternal quest for a textile fibre that combines the best of both aesthetics and utility performance. Today, Modal fibre is replacing the cotton from its current dominant market very fast. Its eco-friendly, 100 per cent bio-degradable characteristics has made it accepted globally within a short period of time

By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore and Prashant Verma, MF Tech (Student), NIFT Bangalore (Author can be contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)

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