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Personal Care Industry in India

The Indian personal care industryhas taken rapid strides inthe last few years, moving towards premium products incorporating specialty ingredients in their formulation.However, a comparison with per capita consumption in China reflects the largely untapped nature of the Indian market. Favo urable demographic factors and increasing beauty consciousness indicate high future demand for personal care products and specificallyfor active ingredients. Industry participants need to build greater awareness and distribution reach and develop products tailored for the Indian market. Key trends, including nanotechnology and green chemistry besides others, will influence their strategies.The eventual winners would be those who ensure bet ter value offeringsto meet the needs of the Indian consumer. The personal care market in India is estimated to be worth $ 9 -bn by 2014.In 2009 it was $ 6-bn. Personal hygiene products (includingbath and shower products, deodorantsetc.), hair care, skin care, colour cosmeticsand fragrances are the key segmentsof the personal care market. The skin care market is relativelysmaller and is growing at a high ratewhile moving away from basic creamsand moisturizers to specialized productssuch as anti -wrinkle and darkcircle removing creams. For example,the anti-ageing segment, though only 2% of the skin care market, has beengrowing at a rate greater than 90% p.a.over the last few years.

Key trends and growth drivers in India.

As in other parts of the world, the driving force behind personal careproducts has evolved considerably inIndia. Starting from purely health notionsand moving on to fitness, the current trend is towards well-beingcoupled with beauty. In an effort toadapt to these changes, the industryhas moved from basic products, suchas soaps, shampoos and hair oils, tofunctional products, such as cold creams, and now to specialized products,such as sun block lotions, bodyexfoliating creams and skin whitening& anti -ageing products. The sizable Indian population basewith rising disposable income offersthe personal care industry a burgeoningmiddle class to market a large varietyof consumer products. As

comparedto China, India has a higher personaldisposable income per householdand a growing population ofwomen i n the 25-44 age group, the keyconsumer segment. However, China spends almost 10times as much on skin care, six times asmuch on cosmetics and more than twotimes on hair care on a per capita basis.These figures indicate the huge unrealizedpotential of the In dian market.

Several social, market and industrytrends signal the possibility of Indian personal care industry realizingthis huge potential in the near future.Increasing urbanization, rising participationof women in urban work forceand growing importanc e of looks andpersonal grooming, not only for personal,but professional reasons, aresome of the key social drivers. Markettrends like spread of organized retailto Tier II cities, development of non-traditional segments like men s cosmetics(with products like hair gels and fairness creams) and development ofwide range of products at differentprice points are all factors, which could contribute to the growth of thedomestic personal care market. Industrytrends like increasing competitionwith entry of large MNC s, increasedbrand building and customer awarenessinitiatives by companies are acceleratinggrowth. Subject to sustainedoverall GDP growth rates of ~8-9% p.a., the overall Indian personalcare market has the potential to growat 15%-16% p.a. (much higher rates forselect segments like colour cosmetics,skin care and deodorants) and therebydouble to ~$8 -bn by 2012-13.

Source: Morgan Stanley Report, CIA World Fact Book

Some more factors affecting this industry

Natural and herbal-based products find traction During 2010, companies quickly ramped up the introduction of herbal, traditional ayurvedic and mineral ingredients in cosmetics, as a means to monetise the current desire of consumers to use natural-based products. The positioning of these ingredients was also subtly changed from a rather traditional and old -fashioned platform to modern healthy practice, leading to greater social acceptance and higher sales through the year. Men s grooming takes off With men becoming more comfortable with the notion of look ing good, awareness of men s grooming products increased further in 2010. Apart from the usual categories of pre -shave and razors, men s skin care, this promised fair and blemish-free skin, performed well. Every major brand used Hindi movie stars for instant recall and acceptance. In addition to looking good, smelling good is another important factor for men, which has driven growth in men s deodorants. Direct sellers make deep inroads The market share of direct sellers, both multinational, for example Amway and Oriflame, and domestic, for example Modicare, rose in 2010, as a result of concerted efforts to bring in new products in colour cosmetics and skin care to create interest and excitement, as well as the expansion of networks to reach more consumers in smaller cities. Major players like Amway and Oriflame also started advertising, as they judged that they had reached critical mass in terms of their networks, which would create pull if they advertised. Steady growth forecast for beauty and personal care All the factors that support good growth in the forecast period are in place a modern retailing landscape providing the right ambience and target audiences, higher education, sustained branding and good economic growth giving consumers more money to spen d. Premium products are projected to grow faster, as an increasing middle class consumer base aspires to use more expensive products. In addition, sales of value -added products in the mass segment are expected to increase, driven by convenience and efficacy, which will help to boost overall value growth in the forecast period .

Major players of the Skin care industry in India

HINDUSTAN UNILEVER Ltd.
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Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL) is India's largest Fast Moving Consumer Goods Company, with over 20 distinct categories in Home & Personal Care Products and Foods & Beverages. The company s Turnover is Rs. 17,523 crores (for the financial year 2009 - 2010). Major skin care products are: Fair and Lovely, Lakme, Pond s and Vaseline Breeze, Dove, Hamam, Lifebuoy, Liril, Lux, Rexona and Pears.

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CAVINKARE LTD.
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In 1983 with a single product, CavinKare started out as a small partnership firm. The Company that began its journey as Chik India Ltd was renamed as CavinKare Pvt. Ltd (CKPL) in 1998. Smart marketing and clear product positioning not only ensured CavinKare's growth but also helped the company broaden its product portfolio extensively. Major skin care productsFairever, Fairever Fruit, Spinz Talc, Spinz Deodrants,Hi5 Deodrant and Nyle Cold Cream and Lotion.

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GODREJ CONSUMER PRODUCTS

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Godrej Consumer Products (GCPL) is a leader among India's Fast Moving Consumer Goods companies, with Personal and Home Care Products. GCPL is driven by the mission to continuously enhance the quality of life of consumers in high-growth markets with its products. Major skin care products are : Fair Glow, Cinthol (soaps, deodorants and talcum powder),Vigil& Godrej No.1.

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EMAMI LIMITED
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Emami Limited is a coveted Rs 1000 crore business entity, a leading player in the personal and healthcare consumer products industry in India engaged in manufacturing and marketing of health, beauty and personal care products that are based entirely on ayurvedic formulation. Major skin care products of the company are as follows : Boroplus antiseptic cream, Boroplus prickly heat powder, Fair & Handsome, MalaiKesar Cold Cream & Navratna cool talc.

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Multinational players with international brands have a strong presence in the Indian personal care segment. Local brands too are gaining a foot-holding the market by innovatively developing value offerings to meet the unique needs of the Indian consumer. Going ahead, it will be important to deve lop R&D capabilities to further customize products for Indian consumers, create greater awareness among the burgeoning middle class and ensure effective distribution reach to service them. The companies that are able to develop a judicious mix of the above will be the eventual winners.

Emami as a player in Personal care industry

Emami Limited is one of the fastest growing ayurveda-focused, health, beauty and personal care product companies in India today. They are in the field of manufacturing of health, beauty and personal care products for over 35 years. Through the efforts of a team of committed and competent personnel, we strive for continual improvement in our quality performances. Headquarter: Kolkata Manufacturing plants: Kolkata, Guwahati , Pondicherry , Vapi, Pantnagar, Talasari and Silvassa, Manufacturing facilities with cGMP and ISO 9001:2000 certifications . Important Product Categories Manufactured They have a portfolio of over 30 products derived from select and effective ayurvedic, natural and herbal ingredients. Their main product categories consist of the following: Hair Care Skin Creams , soaps and lotions Talcum Powder Ayurvedic Health Care Products Various Brands Emami believes in building categories by meeting unfulfilled consumer needs. Emami Limited has over 25 brands under its portfolio. The focus is on providing the consumers with innovative products which are capable of meeting their multiple needs and add va lue by enhancing the quality of life. Through innovative and power brands, Emami touches the lives of all consumers, spanning across various income groups in both urban and rural India. Emami s success story is not only weaved around the holistic healing s ystem of ayurveda, but also in its product innovation, dynamic and focused leadership, a strong supply -chain management and unwavering commitment to partners and stakeholders. The popular brands like Boroplus, Navratna, Fast Relief and Fair and Handsome are an outcome of deeper understanding of Indian consumers. A brand is a commitment to consumers and in Emami, its brands are a synthesis of innovation, cutting-edge technology; product efficacy and intelligent pricing that have made them the people s choice . Baby Massage Oil Mentho PlusMalaiKesar Cold Cream Boroplus Antiseptic Cream Navratna Cool Talc Fair and Handsome Hairlife Navratna Extra Thanda Navratna Oil

Himani Fast Relief SonachandiAmritprash

Brand Fair & Handsome

Emami s presence in skin care segment of personal care is with Fair &Handsome.In the segment it is the market leader with 66% of market share.( on august 2011-data from economics times)

Fair And Handsome

Product ideology: Emami created acompletely new market segment inintroducing India s first fairness creamcustomised for men. Product attributes:Emami (incollaboration with Activor Corp.)created a unique fairness cream formen with a breakthrough Double Strength Peptide complex patented inthe US. This wonder peptide works onthe collagen structure of male skin, visibly improving skin texture andfairness in just four weeks. Containsliquorice, vetiver and aloe vera, itspleasant cooling sensation provides arefreshing after -shave effect. Major players:Competitors includeNivea Whitening, MenzActive,Fair One Man and Set Wet Get Fair. Product differentiation: The productimproves fairness in four weeks,regulates melanin production andprovides a natural sunscreen againstUV rays. It moisturises the skin, leaving it fair and fresh with a coolingsensation. Brand strategy:Compared towomen s skin male skin is thrice more exposed to the sun s UV rays, fivetimes more exposed to pollution andtwice more exposed to stress. Besides,research revealed that more than 30%of fairness cream users were men with a growing interest in personalgrooming. For instance, an Indian malespend an average 20 minutes in frontof the mirror each morning comparedwith the average Indian woman s 18minutes [Source: Gillette India],prompting the Company to develop afairness cream for men now agrowing market in the country. Advertising:The Company investedaggressively in brand promotion.It enlisted Shah Rukh Khan as thenational brand ambassador and actorSurya as the brand ambassador for Tamil Nadu and adjoining states. Competitive edge:The brand the first to introduce a fairness creamfor men captured consumer mindshare. The enlistment of Shah RukhKhan as brand ambassador enhancednationwide brand recall.

Analysis

Segmentation
Metro sexual is a word describing men who have a strong concern for their aesthetic appearance, and spend asubstantial amount of time and money on their imagesand lifestyles. The look cool culture is becomingepidemic among the Indian youth. Today the CompleteMan is more popular than Marlboro Man. Genderstereotype boundaries are blurring and men do nothesitate to exhibit their feminine side. HLL never imagined that men could want to be fair andhandsome, or their researches were all around womenso they didn t find out men used it too. Or they knew,but didn t see a need to have a special cream for men.Emami sresearch found that out.Emami went for serious customer research which showed that 25 -30% of customers of Fairness creams were men. That customer insight paved way for a specialized brand for men . In 2005, with the launchof Fair and Handsome (FAH), Emami became the firstcompany in India to launch a fairness cream exclusivelyfor men. As a category creator, Emami has gone anddisrupted the way male grooming is being treated in thiscountry.

Targeting & Positioning

Initially the brand was positioned as a fairness cream formen who wanted to look good and were erstwhile usersof women s creams. Emami also marketed its product by emphasizing that women s creams did not work onmen because of the differences in their skin types, andthe differences in the conditions to which they wereexposed on a daily basis. Since FAH was a categorycreator such a strategy was probably justified at that time. The current positioning strategy of FAH gives theimpression that the users lack confidence, feel insecureand possess low self esteem. In the process the brand isrepelling a lot of self assured men who want to take careof their skin rather than merely attract women. They might want to do it for career related needs or merely forthe feel good factor . Hence it might help to grow themarket for FAH if the brand addresses the host of issuesfaced by men rather than merely being attractive to girls.FAH by default is restricting itself to the Fairnessproposition. Even when it is addressing the issue offairness, the bra nd needs to project itself as anaspirational brand a brand for winners rather than forlosers. With times there is always a need tolook at changing requirements in the present scenario with long term focus for the success of any brand/product. Target for Fair and Handsome should not berestricted to teenagers/ college going students. There seems to be a high potentialfor the product to grow across age groups and not beinglimited to teenagers. Indian youth being not financially independent at an early age (below 21years of age) may restrict the usage of the product to an extent.The post launch research done by Emami also supportsthat the product may appeal to men, due to differentproduct benefits, across different age groupscategorised as youth.As a result, it should not be considered as a productprimarily for teenagers. It can be extended for youngmen in urban areas.Therefore,considering the long term perspective the product shouldbe marketed for youth in general with a common mantheme which can appeal to all, in the market who wantto look handsome or are looks conscious.Present positioning takes two stands as per the nameof the product i.e., being fair as well as being handsome.This positioning is not emphasizing the fairness part onlyas indicated by saying Hi Handsome though theconcept of being handsome is associated with gettingfair after the use of the cream. Here positioning standcan be the personality of the user that may come out tobe an effective positioning. Taking into considerationthe previous contro versies towards the advertisementsfor females fairness cream and the report from medicalfield, no false or

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Product
Emami in c aboration with Activor Corp, USA has create a unique fairness cream for men Fair And Handsome "Peptide complex patented in the USA" . This wonder molecule peptide works on the collagen structure of male skin and dramatically improves skin te ture and enhance skin's natural tone and give it a beautiful glow. It also gives pleasant after shave effect. Face the day with a natural glow.Important feature of the product is it s unique 5 power fairness system. y Double strength peptide complex-effectively penetrates tougher male epidermis to regulate melanin production. y Sunguard-counter over e posure of male skin to sun and UV rays. y Anti bacplus-protects skin against pollution and darkshadow caused by daily shaves,nicks and cuts. y Stress buster-remove dead cells and rejuvenate skin. y Herbocool-makes skin fair and fresh with a present cooling sensation.

These is the chart on the website of the brand which gives us the thought process of brand. A market leader must be potentially aware of flank attac s on its authority. As k change becomes the name of the game, even brands likeFAH had to innovate by offering new benefits to the customers.Emami in collaboration with Activor Corp.,USA,has created a unique fairness cream for men with a breakthrough fast action Lumino Peptide(trademark) to make skin fairer in just 3 weeks(previously it was 4 weeks)This was developed by USA based DR C.Zaveri,renowned skin e pert and protg of 2 times nobel prize winner,in collaboration with Indian herbalists and dermatologists.Currently the feature of the product is it s 5 action fairness system for tough male skin

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Soon th Go iChittiB hoo ph no non is going to hit Men b gro ing demand for a Gora ChittaJamai - Shobha De Men are also under pressure to loo better - Prahalad akkar Most dark-skinned men are as insecure as women and go to equal lengths, albeit secretl , to achieve lighter skin - ditor of men's magazine, Man's World, Jerry Pinto

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1. Fast action Lumino Peptide(tm)-penetrates deep int tough male skin,making it fairer in 3 weeks. 2. UV Block-Protects skin pigmentation caused by UVA/UVB rays,dirt and pollution. 3. Mark Free-Removes blemishes caused by shaving cuts and bruises. 4. Protein Booster-Improves texture,reduces wrinkles and smoothens skin. 5. Glow Plus-Makes skin glow with Vitamin E & A. Still Emami had to shift the focus from fair skin to healthy skin. Over focuson fairness is myopic. Every man, irrespective of hiscomplexion, needs to keep his facial skin healthy. FAH is a cream with multiple benefits and positioning it justas a fa irness cream is myopic. A beautiful face is a dream of all men.Health and beauty are the two cherished values by all men and are broader and holistic than fairness. Emami therefore launched new products under FAH with different features to take care overall need s of skincare for men rather than only fairness.

1)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED FAIRNESS AFTER-SHAVE BALM The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with Hydra-Comfort delivers 5 Unique benefits:
MOIST RISES: Hydrating formula maintains the skin's natural moisture balance and keeps itsupple. SOOTHES: Unique Hydra-Comfort formula soothes rough skin and eases the shaving irritation. WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone

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Dark REFRESHES: Soothing herbal actives cool, refresh and provides comfort from razor burns. PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to promote the healing of minor nicks & cuts from shaving.

2)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING FIRMING FACE MASK

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with NutraTone delivers 5 unique benefits: FIRMS:UniqueNutra-Tone formula absorbs excess oil & impurities as it clarifies and firms dull lifeless skin, stimulating cellular renewal. MOISTURISES: Hydrating formula soothes & maintains the skin s natural moisture balance and keeps it free from stretching. WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone, reduce blemishes and dark shadows caused by daily shaving to improve skin s clarity. REFRESHES: Soothing herbs cool, refresh and comfort dry irritated skin. PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of

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pollution &climate on skin.

3)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING REGENERATING FACE-SCRUB

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with MenthaCryst and Aluminum Oxide micro-particles providedermabrasion & delivers 5 Unique benefits: MOISTURISES: Hydrating formula keeps skin moist and soft preventing irritation and skin stretching. POLISHES: Unique blend of MenthaCryst& Aluminum Oxide micro -particles provide dermabrasion which polishes and refines the skin texture for ultra smooth skin, while exfoliating dead skin cells. WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone, reduce blemishes and dark shadows caused by daily shaving to improve skin s clarity. REFRESHES: Soothing herbs cool, refresh and comfort dry irritated skin. PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution & climate on skin.

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4)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING REFRESHING FACEWASH

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with NutraFresh delivers 5 unique benefits: MOISTURISES: Non-drying soap-free hydrating formula keeps skin moist and soft, maintaining the skin s natural moisture balance and keeps it free from stretching. CLEANSES: Removes deep impurities & dirt to visibly brighten skin, improve clarity and prevents clogging of pores. WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone, reduce blemishes and dark shadows caused by daily shaving to improve skin s clarity. REFRESHES: Nutra-Fresh cools & refreshes while maintaining the skin's natural moistu re balance. PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution and climate on skin.

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5)EMAMI FAIR AND HANDSOME ADVANCED WHITENING DAY-LONG MOISTURISER

The double-strength Peptide Complex activated unique 5 Power fairness system with AquaXyl delivers 5 unique benefits : MOISTURISES: AquaXyl delivers extra moisturising all-day long. It refreshes and keeps skin smooth & supple. SUNGUARD: Active UVA / UVB filter counters overexposure of male skin and protects from darkening and premature ageing. WHITENS: Penta-peptide complex influences the melanin synthesis to whiten skin tone, reduce blemishes and dark shadows caused by daily shaving to improve skin s clarity. HERBOCOOL: A unique blend of herbal actives extra-cool the skin and keep it fresh all -day long. PROTECTS: Antibac Plus reinforces skin's natural resistance to combat action of pollution & climate on skin.

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Place
Initially the product was launched inAndhra Pradesh then in Karnataka and then nationally within a span of five months.Initially Fair & Handsomehad chosen channels likeKaya Clinic and Army Canteens, which shows it focused on high profile people and positioned itself as a premiumbrand.Currently both Emami and HLL have beenzeroing in on both the urban and rural marketsfor the men s fairness products. At some stageEmami will need to further differentiate FAHfor the rural market with its distinct psychosocial and physical environment (for instancefar greater exposure to the sun). This should alsobe accompanied with a differentiated pricingstrategy and one week use sachets to promotetrial purchase.

Price
Fair and handsome Unique 5-Power Formula was priced at Rs. 68 for 60gms. Fair and handsome with Active lumino peptide is priced at Rs 79 for 60 gms and Rs 40 for 30gms and Rs 8 for 9gms.Where Vaseline Men is priced at Rs 75 for 30gms and fair and lovely max fairness is priced at Rs 78 for 50gms.

Promotion
Emamibecame the first company in India to launch a fairness cream exclusively for men. Because Fair and Handsome(FAH) was a category creator, its launch was supported by heavy promotion. The theme of the company sadvertisements revolved around bringing out the fact thata large number of men used women s fairness cr eams.Promotional strategies used FAH till now shows that users lack confidence and feel insecure if they are not fair.It repels a lot of self assured men who want to use the product for skincare,career related needs or for feel good factor .Only issuing fairness proposition is restricting the brand,but with new range of FAH products for skincare we have to wait for their promotion theme.In their latest advertisement they improved the postioning by showing that career opportunity may enhance by using the p roduct but how can fairness and career be related is again an issue and it was showing that the product is for losers and not for winners .In October 2007 Emami organized Mr Handsome Contest for the first time in India .During the launch Mr. Mohan Goenka, Director, Emami Group of Companies said We at Emami have always spotted trends inthe male grooming segment and have tried to imbibe them to enhance our productportfolio for men. This contest will not only set industry standards when it comes to theconcept of male looks but also when it comes to influencing this segment. To begin with,we have started Emami Mr Handsome Contest from Mumbai this year but since thiscontest is our intellectual property, we very soon plan to take it national. Men have every right to demand a skin-lightening cream if they need it. But the key issue is the way it is advertised. Is there a way to advertise askin-lightening cream by not making any MAN feel like he s a loser if he s not fair?Use of fear of rejection has been a popular advertisingstrategy for many personal care products. However, inthis segment of fairness creams where the issue goes intodebates over racist mindset it might be important for Emami to take a few lessons from the West in thepromotion of such products.The only difference is in the west it ismarketed more subtly: You don t have to wait till summer to have beautiful skin vs. an advertisement which equates fairness with automaticsuccess both in career and romantic l ives.Consumers know that complexion is genetic and cannotbe drastically changed through a topical cream. Thus Emami needs to focus on the overall facial beauty andpersonality of the men. How the confidence and

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selfesteem can be enhanced by grooming well nee d to befocused. As a socially responsibly company, Emami should avoid the deliberate attempt to make darkcomplexioned youth feel inferior. The focus should beon grooming, beauty and health rather than oncomplexion. The initial campaign of Fair and Handsome didn tuse any celebrity appeal. However, in the recentadvertisements also Shahrukh Khan is not a celebrityendorser in true sense. It can be said that through recentthe advertisements Shahrukh Khan is associated with Fairand Handsome campaign as an advisor. He himself isnot using the product in the advertisement. He is ratherrecommending it to other men to use Fair and Handsomeinstead of any other fairness cream meant for females.But on the product packet it is printed Use Fair and Handsome like me-Shah RukhKhan .Using celebrity appeal for FAH was highly criticised .On 25th September,2007 criticism also hit BBC news.Some points of the article by NareshPuri,BBC News were as such " Shahrukh Khan is a huge star in India and his endorsement will no doubt raise t he profile of this product," he says. "Impressionable young men will get the idea that if they want to be attractive like him, they should also use it. The cult of media personality, especially cricket or Bollywood stars, is a much bigger phenomena in India and so brands are much more partial to celebrity endorsements. But what SRK is essentially doing is confirming and promoting the condescending attitude that many Indians have towards dark-coloured skin. His endorsement is completely immoral.Neither the manufacturers nor a spokesman for Khan would comment on his involvement in the campaign. A major Bollywood star backing a skin-lightening cream will intensify the prejudice that already exists within the South Asian community, in which the darker skinned can find themselves looked down upon - just as it still happens in parts of India today. We feel that nodirect celebrity endorsement should be done for thecream. It should be with the common man only. Thiswill help the people to link well with the product. The important thing is to connect the people with thebenefits of the product in the right and logicalperspective.Communication through packaging is well handled .Details on the role of each ingredients and the frequency and duration of use are explained clearly. For FAH Men skin care they have a very good website and a facebook page.

Immediate future actions to be taken based on above analysis.

y y y y Avoid over focus on fairness. Slice of life ads from other crucial moments of Male s life need to be used. Look beyond youth segment. Launch line extensions based on skin types.

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References
Websites y http://www.fairandhandsome.ae/home y http://www.fairandhandsome.net/ Journals y VISIONThe Journal of Business Perspective l Vol. 11 y Chemical Weekly, October 2009. Articles y The economic times. y Business line.