Filler Slab

Filler slabs are just as the phrase states a slab with filler material.

The concept behind a filler slab is to not compromise on the strength of the slab while reducing material
usage and hence reduce the overall cost. It is said that almost 25% cost saving comes into the picture
through Filler Slabs.

The science behind it
Two prime materials for a slab are concrete and steel . Technically speaking, concrete is very good at
resisting compression and steel handles the tension. When you look at a slab, because of its weight,
there would tend to be a bit of a sag. So the compression zone in the slab would be on the upper portion
and the tension would occur at the bottom. By introducing the steel rods at the bottom, there is no need
for additional concrete there. Hence this space can be replaced with lighter and cheaper materials. Hence
the filler.

The introduction of cranked steel rods ( as shown in the figure) makes sure that there is more steel at the
bottom
.

Coming to the technique
1. Select the filler material for the roof. The prime fillers that are used are: Mangalore tiles (or any
other designer tile of relatively the same size), hollow concrete or terracotta blocks, small pots
etc. Or anything that would be within a square foot. Take into consideration that if the tiles are
the material of choice, then two layers of tiles, one above the other, are to be used. The tile that
is being exposed can be a designer one (for example) and the one above can be a an old
reused tile as it will be hidden in the slab. (should help save the on cost of tiles)
2. Once the centring (a layer of sheets on which the slab will rest while it is wet) is set out, the steel
rods are prepared, i.e. they are cranked (if l is the length of the steel rod, then the crank will be
l/4 on each side of the rod). Note: The thickness of the steel bar will have to be determined by a
structural engineer depending on the span of the slab. So assuming one is using 10mm rods
and 12 mm rods, one should be careful to use the thicker rods parallel to the shorter span of the
slab. And the thinner rods on top of that.
3. On top of the centring sheets apply a cement sand mixture (use more sand.. this is about 2
inches thick and just acts as a levelled surface which later on will be removed ). Then a layer of
cow dung is applied once it reaches a semi dry state. On top of that a layer of putty is applied.
This an inch thick (contains more cement, less sand). Let the putty also dry to a semi dry state
and the punctures in the shape of the tile are made in the putty. (Note : the puncture is only putty
deep. The cement surface below that, doesnt need to be touched.
4. After that the steel rods are put in place. Note: The spacing of the steel rods is done in such a
way that while planning out the grid of the slab with respect to the tiles, a spacing of 4 inches is
assumed between tiles and also a one inch overlap over the tile has to considered. In all, a 6
inch space is to be taken into consideration. The steel rod is placed in the centre of this 6 inch
rib.
5. Once the steel is laid out, the tiles are also put in place; first the designer tiles and then above it
the old tiles. A small bit of mud mortar is put in-between the old tile and the new tile, so that it
doesnt move when the concrete is being poured.
6. Now the skeleton is done. A cement, sand, aggregate mix in the ration of 1:2:4 along with water
is prepared and poured over the grid work and allowed to set for a period of 2 weeks with
constant curing. Make sure that when the concrete is being poured, it should be done at one
short and not with breaks as it would lead to differential drying and hence the formation of
cracks.
7. After this period, shuttering is removed and the uneven surfaces are plastered and finished off
with a coat of paint.


Putting the centering sheets in place.
Putty over the leveled surface
Marking the position of the tiles
The marked surface.

Removing the putty where the tile will be exposed ; creating scratches on the surface for bonding
between this surface and the concrete mix that will be pored over it.

Steel grid work prepared and laid; tiles are placed in pairs with a mud mix between them.
After placing the tiles.
Concrete mix being poured in slowly.

The mix is pored in the gaps first and then pored over the tiles. This would prevent the toppling of the
tiles.
A finished surface against an unfinished one.
The slab left for drying and cured over a few days.