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Step 5: Power connector (IEC connector) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 6: Ventilation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Step 7: Making the voltage regulator. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Step 8: Soldering the cables, schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 9: AC Power cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 10: Fitting cables from the door to the inside. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Step 11: The quick release connectors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Step 12: Fitting the wirewound resistor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Step 13: Fitting a magnet catch to the door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Step 14: Cutting unwanted cables from ATX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Step 15: Labeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Step 16: Fitting the Voltmeter and Ammeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Step 17: The continuity tester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Step 18: You're done! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Step 19: Replacing the PSU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
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TOTAL COST = 16.59 GRAND TOTAL= 24.19 TOOLS: 1)-Drill 2)-Hot glue gun . 3)-Dremel (With a cutting disc and round sander) 4)-Hole saw ( about 7cm) 5)-Epoxy 6)-Sand paper 7)-Solder 8)-A Dymo (Optional, I don't have one, my wife did the labels for me at work, but you could print them and tape them) note: In this list of materials I specified where I found some of the parts I've used. I'm not saying that you need to buy an OHP or a home heater to get the parts, but maybe you already have some of these things at home and they don't work any more, or you can find then on the street, or in garage sales or in markets like the one you see in the picture below.
Image Notes 1. I love this second hand market, you can get lots of things for your projects for almost nothing.
Image Notes 1. This amp may not be working, but if you are after the knobs of the potentiometers, or the connectors at the back, you don't really mind if it doesn't work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
Image Notes 1. These are the connectors I used for the constant voltages outputs. They came from a TV I found on the street. (sorry for the low quality picture, is the only one I have of the connector before removing it from the circuit.)
Image Notes 1. Two of the switches I used came from a heater like this one.
Image Notes 1. Another nice switch from an OHP. 2. IEC connector. This one even has a fuse.
Image Notes
Image Notes
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1. And.. of course the enclosure, in this case I used a Bread Box similar to the one in this picture.
Image Notes 1. Make sure you can fit the ATX inside.
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
Image Notes 1. This is what I used to remove the handle from the glass door.
Image Notes 1. Mains switch 2. Fixed voltage connectors. 3. Voltage regulated connectors. 4. Two way switch 5. LEDs.
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6. Ammeter switch.
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Image Notes 1. Mark where the wood holders are going to be.
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Step 6: Ventilation
Ventilation is very important in this project as you are fitting an ATX inside an almost sealed enclosure. If you don't do anything about ventilation, the ATX will get really hot and eventually will stop working. 1). - In this case as the ATX is upright, I fitted one fan at the bottom of the enclosure and made a hole on the top of the enclosure, as the ATX is always taking air out of the PC. So the fan at the bottom will blow air inside which will get through the ATX and then will get out at the top vent. 2) .- To make sure the air that is blown from the ATX finds its way out, I decided to help it a bit by cutting a coke can and fitting it on top of the enclosure. ( see pics ). 3) .- And then I glued a fridge magnet to the can with some epoxy (this will stop unwanted noise from the vibrations)
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Image Notes 1. I used this metal grill because I did not have other fan grill.
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Image Notes 1. The magnet glued to the coke can with epoxy.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
Image Notes 1. I used a variable resistor because I did not have a 560Ohm resistor.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
To connect the USB output you just need to use the ground for the negative and the +5v for the positive. ( if you're not sure witch cables to use see here )
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
File Downloads
Schematic.pdf ((612x792) 313 KB) [NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Schematic.pdf']
Image Notes 1. I used some heat shrink tube to isolate the cables.
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Image Notes 1. This is the main switch, make sure the cables are well isolated. This particular switch has 3 connectors, that's because it has a light that goes on when the switch is in the on position.
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Image Notes 1. Leave enuf cable length to open the door freely.
Image Notes 1. Molex (the connector we need for this project) 2. Sata connector.
Image Notes 1. This is the20-24 Pin ATX power adapter. It's a good idea to try it before cutting it, just in case it's not the right one.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
Image Notes 1. This is the side we need, the side that connects to the ATX. 2. You can cut really close to this connector, I don't think you can use it really for anything.
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Image Notes 1. Connect the green cable with ground (black cables).
Image Notes 1. Still waiting for the meters from HK. I hope they get here soon!
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Image Notes 1. Cut really close to the connector you're going to use,so there is not risk of short circuit.
Image Notes 1. You don't need to copy my labels, It is YOUR project, put whatever you will understand easily.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
Image Notes 1. You can see in this picture lots of labels, I thought there were too many, so I took some out later on.
Image Notes 1. FINALLY, after all the waiting, I received the units from HK. It a good Idea to test them before you place them in the door.
Image Notes 1. You may need to sand a little the hole if the meters don't fit. ( I did the holes with the measures that the ebay shop gave me and it was very close to the size of the unit)
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Image Notes 1. Amp meter connection. 2. Working power, in this case a 9V battery.
Image Notes 1. A problem with a relay is that it sends a giant pulse through the lines when you switch it off. You generally have to use diodes to pass the pulse to ground. Thank you cyberpageman to point this out.
Image Notes 1. I hot glued the relay close to the volt meter.
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Image Notes 1. With the lid glued you can just slide the battery in the lid.
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INSTALL THE NEW PSU 1) .-Slide the PSU in its place. 2) .-Connect the main power connector on the PSU (If it has a switch make sure is in the on position) 3) .-Pull down the aluminium until the magnet sticks to the metal of the PSU. 4). -Connect the molex connectors and the 24pin connector.
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Related Instructables
ATX Power Supply --> Cheap BenchTop Power Supply (Photos) by mortaldoom780
ATX Power Supply - the elegant way to adapt to benchtop use... by jordanyte
Converting a computer ATX power supply to a really useful lab power supply by abizar
Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 204 comments
Mar 17, 2011. 7:21 PM REPLY I followed the schematic exactly and have done so many times and every time it only goes to 1.3V max. I think its the voltage regulator because when I switched the LM350 with a IRF9432 it went to 24V with the same pin configuration but when i put it under load it sends the voltage to zero (it decided not to work anymore so theres no reason to take pictures) and usually burns out my potentiometers, I've lost at least three pots because of overpower and I'm wondering why yours are fine. I was thinking about just buying more LM350's, do you have any advice before I potentially spend my money on something I don't need?
newtonn2 says:
Mar 17, 2011. 11:33 PM REPLY I'm so sorry. I hope my I did the schematic right. No one told me yet otherwise. Did you try to do the simple schematic? You can check this one http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Bench-Top-Power-Supply/ I will double check the schematic later.
paradise97402 says:
Feb 20, 2011. 3:09 AM REPLY That power supply is the same one I am currently using on my old power supply..it does fine, in my Newtonn2 Power supply I am going to put two PSU in the cabinet and also fix it with two regulators and also affix the second PSU with pre set resistors, I do alot with LED's so then that will give me a fast connect on the power I use the most, and give the addition of the Newtonn2 design as well.. Ohh, and I had a brass name tag made for it that states "Newtonn2" on it so you now have a bench top with the credit to you for the design out there..thanks again
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newtonn2 says:
That's cool I would love to see it once it's finish!
paradise97402 says:
Mar 9, 2011. 11:45 PM REPLY Newtonn2, Sorry for takign so long, but been busy lately. btu I started gettin gthings together in th ecase, I decided to take th eATX out of th ehousing and mount it to some aluminum rails..
newtonn2 says:
That looks very good. Well done. Did you try your circuit already? does it works fine?
paradise97402 says:
Newtton2 here is the board layout for the power regulator, this is the layout and drill guide. the thing im not sure about is the third lead on the 5K pot.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bench-power-supply-mostly-from-recycled-par/
tgtomm says:
Jul 29, 2010. 5:18 AM REPLY Rather than using batteries and switches and such for the panel meters, you can use some dc-dc modules with isolated outputs. This sounds complicated but it really isn't. I have just done this and put together a detailed guide on doing it over on my wordpress blog here . Hope you find it useful.
precisioncollisions says:
Feb 26, 2011. 3:02 AM REPLY I thought about dc-dc modules with isolated output is the only way. Glad you point it out.. Check ebay and they(Hongkong suppliers) have digital ammeters and voltmeters that can be powered directly from the "measured" circuit..
moeakram says:
Feb 18, 2011. 8:55 PM REPLY Hey I'm trying to make your power supply and I got my hands on a recycled 500 watt atx and I was wondering how would that affect the design??
paradise97402 says:
Feb 10, 2011. 4:50 AM REPLY Ok, well as I go trough my order I noticed that the Capacitors I got were both Radial types..and the only ceramic I have is a .1uf 100v will that work?
newtonn2 says:
Hi there! I'm glad you like my bench power supply. I can say that I've been using this power supply for more than a year without any problems. I'm sure you could use that capacitor, it should be fine. If you need any help, let me know. Regards Newtonn2
paradise97402 says:
Feb 10, 2011. 7:21 AM REPLY Hey one more thing..the relayI wasnt sure if it should be a 6v 5amp or a 10 amp so I ordered both..but what one do you suggest?
newtonn2 says:
Feb 10, 2011. 7:26 AM REPLY Any relay will work. The relay it's only to connect the battery that power the Voltmeter, so you could use the 5amp if you want. It may be smaller than the 10 amp.
Feb 5, 2011. 2:20 PM REPLY THERE IS NO NEED FOR THE 10 OHM RESISTOR! ive built at least 10 of there power supplies, taugh my friend how to build these power supplies, and used then for 3 years now. there is no need for it. all it does is waste power. the PSU'S STILL RUN WITHOUT IT!
newtonn2 says:
Feb 5, 2011. 3:18 PM REPLY THANK YOU VERY MUCH. If You read the instructable you'll see that I don't see any difference. I build a few and never use the resistor ether. But I read that some PSU needs them. So that is why I fitted one.
owenaero says:
great build i am thinking on doing one similar to this i do highly suggest using a shunt with your amp meter for safety.
newtonn2 says:
Hi there. Thank you. What is a shunt? what is for?
tgtomm says:
Nov 11, 2010. 12:38 AM REPLY If you have the same ammeters as me (i think you do) then the shunt is built into the ammeter. If you look at the back of the ammeter you will see a wire (around 2cm long) on the board (somewhere near the connectors). This is the shunt for these meters.
newtonn2 says:
That's right. Mine has that on the back. Thanks
owenaero says:
Sep 14, 2010. 12:49 PM REPLY An ammeter shunt allows the measurement of current values too large to be directly measured by a particular ammeter. In this case the shunt, a manganin resistor of accurately known resistance, is placed in series with the load so that all of the current to be measured will flow through it. The voltage drop across the shunt is proportional to the current flowing through it and since its resistance is known, a millivoltmeter connected across the shunt can be scaled to directly display the current value. i will get you w wiring of a shunt asap my scanner is down
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owenaero says:
here you go found a image
newtonn2 says:
Thank you very much!
Elias_92 says:
What's the measure of the box?
waterplanet says:
fantastico el trabajo
newtonn2 says:
~Muchas gracias~
diyman says:
Aug 6, 2010. 12:45 AM REPLY nice job on schematics and the project itself. i've been looking fo something like this for a very long time. i have a question and that is, would it be okay to just connect a multimeter instead of a volt (or amp) panel meter.
juggler73 says:
Apr 3, 2010. 6:03 PM REPLY hi i wanna build this power supply but im having a problem understanding the relay part. the 12v and ground go to the diode then the relay and thats where im stuck, is it connected then to the switch then the 9v battery then the volt meter. dont understand that bit of the schematic great power supply btw
Mrfixit5644 says:
Jul 24, 2010. 11:05 AM REPLY All I can say is Awesome, I'm a Renewable energy major and I'm working on getting my bench put together to work at home. I have looked at many different power supply ideas and sets of directions. This one is heads and shoulders above all the ones I've looked at. I especially like how you didn't buy everything new. I can't wait until my break between terms in school to build it. Thank you very much for sharing. :D
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newtonn2 says:
Thanks!
tgtomm says:
Jul 1, 2010. 5:12 AM REPLY I imagine the meters couple their -ve supply with the -ve side of their measurement. This could be how you broke one (since you would be using 0v as -ve supply and -12v as -ve measurement). This should be easy to check with a multimeter and then you could try powering the meters between -12v and ground (perhaps adding a voltage regulator) I'm no electronics expert but i do know cheap meters can often be broken this way
tgtomm says:
Jul 21, 2010. 4:54 AM REPLY Scrap that. just received some similar meters from ebay. Looks like they need completely isolated supplies. I'm going to order some of these: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=8727554&CMP=LEC-XPPowerSC&ATT=8727554
hamstanz says:
What market do you goto ?
sayem707 says:
Great job bro ..... I am sure I'll try this one :D
Adri3l says:
Jun 4, 2010. 1:44 PM REPLY This may be a rather silly question, but here goes. I just found a datasheet of the LM138/LM338 5-amp adjustable regulators from national semiconductor. Would either one of them be a good replacement for LM350 rated for 3-amp, say if someone would like to draw more power from the PSU on the 0-12 line?
newtonn2 says:
You could use it to get even more power out of the bench power supply. It may need more cooling tho.
Adri3l says:
Jun 7, 2010. 2:10 AM REPLY I already use a Pentium 1 CPU radiator+cooler on my lm317-t and it's always cold to the touch, even if I leave the power supply at 1.25v or full voltage for a very long time. I asked this, in the first place, so i could be sure to recommend it as a good replacement for people who can't find lm350 regulators to buy anywhere near them(like me). Thanks for the info.
jonesy43 says:
Also Since I have the 6V Relay if I wire it to the +5Vout will that still work with every thing else or does it need to be +12Vout?
newtonn2 says:
Jun 6, 2010. 10:14 AM REPLY Hi there! The schematic is wrong, sorry. I did use a 6v relay connected to the 5V output. But there is not difference, you could use a 12v relay connected to the 12v.
jonesy43 says:
Jun 6, 2010. 9:17 PM REPLY Thanks for the info. I'm really just a beginner in electronics and think this instructable is awesome! So I am following your instructable very closely and not trying to change things. So other than the relay everything else in the schematic is correct? Thanks again and I'll let you know how things turn out in the end.
newtonn2 says:
Jun 7, 2010. 1:21 AM REPLY No problem. I don't now much about electronics ether, but internet is a good source of info. I think the rest of the schematic is fine. If you have any question or anything, just let me know.
jonesy43 says:
Jun 6, 2010. 9:34 AM REPLY Great Instructable! I like it so much that I am trying to reproduce it. Your list of Items says a 6V Relay but your Schematic has a 12V Relay and you are running your wire to the +12Vout. Did you mean 12V relay in your list instead of the 6V Relay? May 2, 2010. 4:24 PM REPLY First of all I would like to congratulate you on your bench supply and for this instructable...They are both great work. But the reason for this comment is to ask if LM350 is a variable voltage regulator, while the LM317 is a variable positive voltage regulator? Because where I live I am unable to procure a LM350 integrated circuit, I barely found the LM317 after 2 weeks of intensive searches.So I followed the instructable you linked to for the lm317 and if I connect the + terminal to +12v(yellow) and the - terminal to -12v(blue) i get a maximum of 11v out of the regulator. Any ideas on the matter would be greatly apreciated, thanks.
Adri3l says:
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newtonn2 says:
May 12, 2010. 8:31 AM REPLY The LM317 and LM350 are positive voltage regulators. They works the same. The differences is that the LM317 is rated 1.5A, and the LM350 is rated 3A. How are you wiring the regulator? Are You sure they are connected where they go. PS: Sorry for late answer.
Adri3l says:
May 12, 2010. 2:21 PM REPLY I have tryed exactly the same wiring like you, but the LM317 would not start, the voltmeter always showed 1v(wich is bellow 1.25v) nomatter how much i turned the pot left or right. So I used the design that you inspired from www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Bench-Top-Power-Supply/ and it works when I put the + of the regulator on the +12v line and the - of the regulator on the 0v line (i can adjust between 1.25 and about 10.80v).But if I put +12v on the positive terminal of the regulator and -12v on the negative terminal i get only 1v more on the outcome( between 1.25 and almost 12v). Funny thing though, I accidentaly reversed the regulator once when I was testing, i put the + terminal to -12v and the - terminal to +12v. The voltmeter said that i was running -1v at the outputs, and after about 20 seconds the 10uf electrolytic capacitor exploded and i found pieces from it in about a 3m radius
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