simple techniques for soldering, wirework, and metal jewelry

step-by-step
jewelry workshop

Nicola Hurst
 T echnique 2

Drilling D rilling
Drilling is necessary for many jewelry-making techniques: piercing, fretwork, making a hole
(or several holes) to allow a saw blade to pass through the sheet metal, riveting, and for Step 3 Use your fingers, hand, or a clamp to
hold the metal firmly on a piece of wood so that it
hanging findings, such as ear hooks or jump rings. Drilled holes can also be used as a
cannot move. Carefully position the drill bit on the
decorative feature on their own right. mark and switch on the power. Use gentle pressure to
move the drill down through the metal. If you are
using a flexshaft pendant motor, make sure the drill
bit is held perfectly straight, or it will break. With the
D rills drill still rotating, remove the drill bit from the metal.
Most jewelry drills are light and handheld—pendant drill, hobby drill, and hand pin drill T ip
Always wear good eye
(also called an Archimedean drill). A fixed pillar drill is very easy to use and ensures that
protection when drilling,
the drill bit moves down vertically. as tiny burrs can fly away
from the metal. Step 4 If you need to drill a hole in a small
piece of metal it will be very difficult to hold, so drill
D rill bits
the hole before piercing the piece out.
Drill bits vary in size. One of the most useful is a 61-gauge (1mm) drill bit. You will need
other sizes for different purposes, such as riveting with 14-gauge (1.5mm) wire, which
will require a 53-gauge (1.5mm) drill bit.

P lanning and marking

Step 1 When you plan your

piece, decide where the holes need to be
drilled and when. First mark the place to
be drilled with a scribe. Make the point
Step 5 To drill a large hole, first drill a
smaller hole and then gradually drill larger and
more visible with a fine marker pen. Place
larger until the correct size is achieved.
a center punch over the mark and tap it
gently with a hammer. This indentation
will prevent the drill bit from skidding
over the metal.
Clearly mark the place
you want to drill.

U sing a power drill

Step 2 Place the drill bit centrally

in the correct size chuck; it should fit
without force. Tighten with a chuck key.
U sing a hand drill
This drill moves at a much slower
speed than the power drill, so the
hole will also be drilled more slowly.
Mark the place to be drilled in the
same way as for the power drill. Hold
the work firmly and work the drill by
raising and lowering the movable nut.

Place the correct size

drill bit in the chuck.

 T echniques and projects T echnique 2: D rilling 

 T echnique 2

Drilling D rilling
Drilling is necessary for many jewelry-making techniques: piercing, fretwork, making a hole
(or several holes) to allow a saw blade to pass through the sheet metal, riveting, and for Step 3 Use your fingers, hand, or a clamp to
hold the metal firmly on a piece of wood so that it
hanging findings, such as ear hooks or jump rings. Drilled holes can also be used as a
cannot move. Carefully position the drill bit on the
decorative feature on their own right. mark and switch on the power. Use gentle pressure to
move the drill down through the metal. If you are
using a flexshaft pendant motor, make sure the drill
bit is held perfectly straight, or it will break. With the
D rills drill still rotating, remove the drill bit from the metal.
Most jewelry drills are light and handheld—pendant drill, hobby drill, and hand pin drill T ip
Always wear good eye
(also called an Archimedean drill). A fixed pillar drill is very easy to use and ensures that
protection when drilling,
the drill bit moves down vertically. as tiny burrs can fly away
from the metal. Step 4 If you need to drill a hole in a small
piece of metal it will be very difficult to hold, so drill
D rill bits
the hole before piercing the piece out.
Drill bits vary in size. One of the most useful is a 61-gauge (1mm) drill bit. You will need
other sizes for different purposes, such as riveting with 14-gauge (1.5mm) wire, which
will require a 53-gauge (1.5mm) drill bit.

P lanning and marking

Step 1 When you plan your

piece, decide where the holes need to be
drilled and when. First mark the place to
be drilled with a scribe. Make the point
Step 5 To drill a large hole, first drill a
smaller hole and then gradually drill larger and
more visible with a fine marker pen. Place
larger until the correct size is achieved.
a center punch over the mark and tap it
gently with a hammer. This indentation
will prevent the drill bit from skidding
over the metal.
Clearly mark the place
you want to drill.

U sing a power drill

Step 2 Place the drill bit centrally

in the correct size chuck; it should fit
without force. Tighten with a chuck key.
U sing a hand drill
This drill moves at a much slower
speed than the power drill, so the
hole will also be drilled more slowly.
Mark the place to be drilled in the
same way as for the power drill. Hold
the work firmly and work the drill by
raising and lowering the movable nut.

Place the correct size

drill bit in the chuck.

 T echniques and projects T echnique 2: D rilling 

 P roject
P roject
1

S imple pendant Step 5 Heat one section, passing

the flame over the whole piece until the
It is a good idea to start by using techniques that are already familiar to make a simple piece. This
solder runs around the edge of the brass
two-part silver pendant features square holes pierced into its surface and contrasting squares of brass squares. Do not overheat—if the metal
becomes red without the solder running,
soldered onto its components.
take the flame away, let it cool slightly and
M arking the silver start again. The solder will run only if both
Tools and
materials
Step 1 Using dividers or
a steel ruler and scribe, measure
metals are at the same temperature.
Repeat with the other part of the pendant.
Quench, pickle, and rinse well.
and mark a line 3⁄8" (1cm) along
Dividers
the silver sheet. Also measure and
Steel ruler mark the two square holes to be
pierced out. Brass squares will be
D rilling
Scribe

18-gauge (1mm) silver

soldered into the middle of the
pendant, so mark the two holes
Step 6 The two parts of the
pendant will be joined with a jump ring,
sheet: 1½ x 3⁄8" (4 x 1cm) equidistant at either side.
and a jump ring will be used to attach the
20-gauge (0.8mm) brass pendant to its chain, so two holes need to
sheet: 3⁄8" x 1⁄4" be drilled in the top section of the
(1 x 5mm) pendant. Using a punch, mark the
P iercing and filing
positions for the holes to be drilled. Drill
20-gauge (0.8mm) silver
wire: 3⁄4" (2cm) Step 2 Cut the silver
using the piercing saw and
the holes with a 0.9mm or 1mm drill bit.

Piercing saw
following the marks. Then file
Drill the edges smooth with the flat
edge of a file.
F iling
and using
61-gauge (1mm) drill bit emery paper
Files

Soldering equipment
Step 3 Measure, mark,
Step 7 File away any excess
solder and then rub both pieces all over
and cut the brass in half exactly,
with emery paper until they are smooth.
Round-nose and so that you have two 1⁄2" (5mm)
flat-nose pliers squares. File the edges smooth,
taking care to keep the two
Emery papers
pieces square.
Polishing equipment

S oldering
Step 4 To solder the brass
squares onto the silver, place all of
the metal onto the firebrick. Pass a
gentle flame over them and then
paint well with flux. Cut two small
chips of hard solder and place one
on each brass square. Heat the
brass pieces gently until the solder
melts, then turn them upside
down, and place them centrally on
the two silver components.
F inishing
Step 8 Make two jump rings. Put the rings
into the holes, one at the top of the pendant, the other
to join the two pieces together. Join the ends of the
jump rings with flat-nosed pliers and solder using easy
solder. Keep the flame away from the rest of the
pendant. Pickle the pendant and rinse it well. Then
S ee also
polish it with Tripoli and rouge.
Piercing, page 30
Drilling, page 34
Filing, page 36
Soldering, page 38
Finishing and polishing, page 42
Making findings, page 86

 TTechniques and projects

echniques and projects
PP roject 1: S imple pendant 
roject 1:S imple silver ring
 P roject
P roject
1

S imple pendant Step 5 Heat one section, passing

the flame over the whole piece until the
It is a good idea to start by using techniques that are already familiar to make a simple piece. This
solder runs around the edge of the brass
two-part silver pendant features square holes pierced into its surface and contrasting squares of brass squares. Do not overheat—if the metal
becomes red without the solder running,
soldered onto its components.
take the flame away, let it cool slightly and
M arking the silver start again. The solder will run only if both
Tools and
materials
Step 1 Using dividers or
a steel ruler and scribe, measure
metals are at the same temperature.
Repeat with the other part of the pendant.
Quench, pickle, and rinse well.
and mark a line 3⁄8" (1cm) along
Dividers
the silver sheet. Also measure and
Steel ruler mark the two square holes to be
pierced out. Brass squares will be
D rilling
Scribe

18-gauge (1mm) silver

soldered into the middle of the
pendant, so mark the two holes
Step 6 The two parts of the
pendant will be joined with a jump ring,
sheet: 1½ x 3⁄8" (4 x 1cm) equidistant at either side.
and a jump ring will be used to attach the
20-gauge (0.8mm) brass pendant to its chain, so two holes need to
sheet: 3⁄8" x 1⁄4" be drilled in the top section of the
(1 x 5mm) pendant. Using a punch, mark the
P iercing and filing
positions for the holes to be drilled. Drill
20-gauge (0.8mm) silver
wire: 3⁄4" (2cm) Step 2 Cut the silver
using the piercing saw and
the holes with a 0.9mm or 1mm drill bit.

Piercing saw
following the marks. Then file
Drill the edges smooth with the flat
edge of a file.
F iling
and using
61-gauge (1mm) drill bit emery paper
Files

Soldering equipment
Step 3 Measure, mark,
Step 7 File away any excess
solder and then rub both pieces all over
and cut the brass in half exactly,
with emery paper until they are smooth.
Round-nose and so that you have two 1⁄2" (5mm)
flat-nose pliers squares. File the edges smooth,
taking care to keep the two
Emery papers
pieces square.
Polishing equipment

S oldering
Step 4 To solder the brass
squares onto the silver, place all of
the metal onto the firebrick. Pass a
gentle flame over them and then
paint well with flux. Cut two small
chips of hard solder and place one
on each brass square. Heat the
brass pieces gently until the solder
melts, then turn them upside
down, and place them centrally on
the two silver components.
F inishing
Step 8 Make two jump rings. Put the rings
into the holes, one at the top of the pendant, the other
to join the two pieces together. Join the ends of the
jump rings with flat-nosed pliers and solder using easy
solder. Keep the flame away from the rest of the
pendant. Pickle the pendant and rinse it well. Then
S ee also
polish it with Tripoli and rouge.
Piercing, page 30
Drilling, page 34
Filing, page 36
Soldering, page 38
Finishing and polishing, page 42
Making findings, page 86

 TTechniques and projects

echniques and projects
PP roject 1: S imple pendant 
roject 1:S imple silver ring
T echniques and P rojects
Technique 1: Piercing Technique 10: Bending

Technique 2: Drilling Technique 11: Texturing

Technique 3: Filing Project 6: Textured earrings

Technique 4: Soldering Project 7: Textured bangle

Technique 5: Finishing and polishing Technique 12: Doming

Project 1: Simple pendant Project 8: Domed bracelet

Technique 6: Annealing Technique 13: Riveting

Textured Earrings
Technique 7: Using wire Project 9: Riveted cufflinks

Project 2: Simple chain necklace Technique 14: Making findings

Project 3: Simple silver ring Technique 15: Rub over setting

Technique 8: Twisting wire Project 10: Pendant with rub over setting

Technique 9: Forging Project 11: Link bracelet Simple Chain Necklace

Project 4: Forged ring Technique 16: Using beads

Project 5: Fretwork brooch Project 12: Strung necklace

Project 13: Multistrand necklace

Forged Ring

Fretwork Brooch

Simple Silver Rings

 
T echniques and P rojects
Technique 1: Piercing Technique 10: Bending

Technique 2: Drilling Technique 11: Texturing

Technique 3: Filing Project 6: Textured earrings

Technique 4: Soldering Project 7: Textured bangle

Technique 5: Finishing and polishing Technique 12: Doming

Project 1: Simple pendant Project 8: Domed bracelet

Technique 6: Annealing Technique 13: Riveting

Textured Earrings
Technique 7: Using wire Project 9: Riveted cufflinks

Project 2: Simple chain necklace Technique 14: Making findings

Project 3: Simple silver ring Technique 15: Rub over setting

Technique 8: Twisting wire Project 10: Pendant with rub over setting

Technique 9: Forging Project 11: Link bracelet Simple Chain Necklace

Project 4: Forged ring Technique 16: Using beads

Project 5: Fretwork brooch Project 12: Strung necklace

Project 13: Multistrand necklace

Forged Ring

Fretwork Brooch

Simple Silver Rings

 
 step-by-step

jewelry workshop
A multi-technique guidebook for
the novice jewelry maker

For the complete newcomer to jewelry-making, Step-By-Step

Jewelry Workshop is a multi-technique guide covering a range of
all the basics needed to get started creating great designs. From
setting up a workspace and transferring designs to honing basic
filing, sawing, and soldering skills, this guide has it all covered. A
comprehensive tools and materials section reveals how to choose
metals and stones, select and store useful materials, and start
a beginner’s tool kit. With step-by-step photography of every
technique—displaying how to plan, pierce, file, solder, pickle,
and clean—this comprehensive resource makes creating jewelry
accessible and affordable.

Advice on practicing with inexpensive materials until you get your

skills honed and tips on designing your own unique pieces are also
inside. Techniques are interspersed with projects so that you can
create beautiful jewelry as you learn—from simple silver rings to
elegant stone-set pendants.

Even if you’ve never picked up a pair of pliers, Step-By-Step

Jewelry Workshop will guide you every step of the way to a
successful first
project and beyond.

Nicola Hurst earned a degree in jewelry making in 1990 and began her own
jewelry-making business five years later. She teaches adult evening classes to
complete beginners as well as to more advanced makers. She also teaches
private classes from her own workshop, The Nicola Hurst Designer Jewellery
Gallery. Nicola’s jewelry sells in galleries and shops throughout the United
Kingdom.

Paperbound, 8½ x 11, 128 pages

350 photographs
ISBN 978-1-59668-060-9
$24.95 Interweave Press LLC is distributed to the book trade in the U.S. and Canada by Independent
Publishers Group, in the UK and Europe by Search Press, in New Zealand by David Bateman,
April 2008 Ltd, and in Australia by Keith Ainsworth Pty, Ltd. Interweave Press LLC is also the publisher of
14 craft magazines including Beadwork, Step by Step Beads, Step by Step Wire Jewelry, Jewelry
Artist, and Stringing.