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CONSTRUCTION DEFECTS ILLUSTRATIONS OF DEFECTS

In the pages that follow, we have provided a section of a home to illustrate all that goes into construction, followed by a discussion of what can go wrong with some of the components.

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Asphalt Balcony/Deck Failure Crawl Spaces Fireplaces Noise Intrusion

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Sheer Walls Below Grade Walls Retaining Walls Hold Downs Windows

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Roof Leaks Tile Roofs Flat Roof Shower Installation Failure Soil Subsidence

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Flashing Failure Sliding Glass Door Wood Rot Floors/Ceiling Failure

Asphalt The most common roadway resurfacing methods in H.O.A. developments are asphalt or concrete systems. Both types of systems will develop defects if designed or installed incorrectly. Common Types:
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AC Paving (Asphaltic Concrete Paving): Typically black or dark brown in color. PCC (Portland Cement Paving): Similar to sidewalks and driveways but made of higher strength materials and installed in thicker sections. Stamped Concrete: Usually decorative, sometimes different color.

Common Problems:
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Improper design: Asphalt/concrete mixture not per specifications. Installation deficiencies: Varying in thickness. Asphalt overheated before installation. Asphalt too cold before installation. Concrete too dry/wet before installation. Lack of steel reinforcement.

Possible Damage:
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Cracks, alligatoring, and cheecks leading to water intrusion to sub grade. Subsidence. Vertical displacement. Washboard surface. System failure.

Balcony / Deck Failure

A common design characteristic of the H.O.A. developments is the inclusion of balconies or decks, and, if needed, exterior stair systems to access above ground dwellings. Improper design, manufacturing, or installation could result in a construction defect and damage. Unventilated areas with water intrusion cause dry rot, fungus, and mold. These may result in failure to the interior structural framing and exposure of plywood decking that may cause failure of the deck membrane. Common Types:
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Tongue and groove wood plank deck (fully adhered system). Wood framed deck with elastomeric type coatings. Lightweight concrete decks.

Common Problems:
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Improper flashing. Improper deck to sliding glass door or front door threshold transfer. Improper deck to wall transition. Improper drainage or slope to drain. Improper deck finishing (coatings). Improper installation of deck scupper drains.

Possible Damage:
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Dry rot. Deck/structural failure. Interior leaks. Stucco staining/cracking. Wood destroying organisms. Surface cracks or cheecking.

Why Some Balconies Fail

There are four common problem areas in the construction of balcony surfaces.

1. Not Enough Vertical Offset at the Door Threshold. There should be 1-1/2 inch vertical separation between the interior and exterior surface is recommended:
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to avoid wind-driven water from getting inside. to provide a vertical surface to attach the waterproof membrane. to provide continuous "Z" -metal flashing.

2. No Waterproofing on the Sides of the Balcony. The waterproof membrane should be extended up the vertical surface about 1-1/2 inches to create a continuous waterproof membrane along the balcony sides. 3. Insufficient Slope. Adequate slope of the balcony surface is needed to let water drain off fast. A 1/4-inch-per-foot slope from the wall to the drain and/or scupper is recommended for proper drainage. 4. No Ridge to Deflect Water to the Scuppers is an Enclosed. Balcony Without a ridge, commonly called a cricket or saddle, at the low end of the balcony, the water will puddle between to the drains or scuppers. Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Crawlspaces Can Haunt You

Common Problems:
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Lack of cross-ventilation. Insufficient ventilation openings in surrounding walls. Inadequate clearance between earth and wood components. Water entry into Crawlspace. Lack of code-required access to Crawlspace. Exterior grade slopes toward the building.

Resultant Damage:
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Mildew, mold and high ambient moisture due to lack of ventilation. Wood rot and structural damage. Ponding against building. Water through foundation wall. Water in Crawlspace.

Proper Design:

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Provide proper clearances between earth and wood components per the Uniform Building Code (UBC), Chapter 25. Provide adequate ventilation openings per UBC, Chapter 25. Slope grade away from building. Provide cross ventilation per UBC, Chapter 25. Provide Crawlspace access per UBC, Chapter 25.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Fireplaces Can Be Unsafe

Common Problems:
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Use of "mix and match" components. Unsealed gas pipe penetrations. Insufficient clearances between fireplaces and combustible materials. Missing or incomplete installation of fire stops between floors. Use of non-approved decorative chimney terminations. Insufficient chimney height

Potential Damage:
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Fire hazard. Voiding of manufacturer's guarantees. Embers may escape into framed areas. Inadequate fire protection. Smoke may enter living spaces.

Proper Solutions/Construction:
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Use approved laboratory-tests (i.e. Underwriters Laboratories, Inc.) components by a single manufacturer. Use refractory (fireproof) cement to seal gas pipe penetrations through the firebox. Follow manufacturer's installation instructions regarding required clearances from framing and other combustible materials. Use only approved, listed, decorative chimney terminations. Use the "2ft. in 10-ft. height rule" for chimney heights (Uniform Building Code, Section 3703(f) & Table 37-B).

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Noise Intrusion Industry standards have been set to prevent noise intrusion. Many times developers advertise the use of sound proofing materials that surpass the normal industry standards. However, when corners are cut and the materials are not used or are improperly installed, the homeowner suffers and their privacy compromised. Commonly Heard Noises:
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Footsteps: can be heard from above, or causes floor to shake or vibrate. Television, Radio, or Voices: audible from above. Tub and Toilet: draining that can be heard from above inside the wall Use of the toiled can be heard. Voices: heard in the bathroom from above or below. Valve and Service Water Noise: faucets are heard when turned on or off, water hammer or humming noises, or pipes shaking. Doors and Windows Must be Kept Closed: traffic can be heard. Use of Washer & Dryer: audible from within the unit. Vibration: audible from roof mounted A/C units.

Reasons for Noise Intrusion:


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Improper design. Plumbing line in direct contact with interior wall framing. Tubs and showers resting directly on sub flooring. Improperly mounted A/C units. Improperly attached sub flooring to ceiling rafters. Improper glazing of exterior sliding glass doors and windows along with this new material there are some changes and additions to windows and roofs.

Roof Leaks The following is a list of the common roof systems that are installed at homeowner association developments. Each system contains similar components: felt underlayment, plywood sheeting, sheet metal flashing, etc. Improper manufacture or installation of one or more of the roof system components could lead to a construction defect and damage. Common Roof Types:
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Clay Tile (sometimes called Spanish or Italian tile): Made from red clay, concrete or both. Asphalt Composition Shingle: Made or formed from an asphaltic, aggregate and fiber mixture. Flat Concrete Tile: Formed concrete typically flat and uniform in shape. Built-Up (BUR): Two or more layers of roofing material covering the same roof area, cemented together on the job. Wood Shake: Usually made from wedged shaped pieces of cedar.

Common Problems:
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Improper and incomplete sheet metal flashing. Missing or short cut roof underlayment felts. Improper use of materials. Improper slope to drain. Lack of Gutters. Roof leaks. Gutters separating, improperly installed, or missing.

Possible Damage:
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Stains and or destruction of walls, ceilings, or floors. Wet Insulation. Mold. Fungus. Wood destroying organisms. Dry rot. Structural Failure. Defective or broken tiles/shingles.

Roof Flashing: Why Some Tile Roofs Leak

There are four common problem areas in the construction of tile roofs.

1. The ridge of the tile roof is left open to rain.


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The national Roofing Contractors Association (NCRA) and most manufacturers recommend that grout or other closure device be used to seal this exposed location.

2. Open headwalls can be a source of leaks in a driving rain.


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Flashing and counter flashing as well as a grout closure are critical to provide a weather tight seal.

3. Roof penetrations installed without flexible flashing.


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The principal concept is to make sure that any flashing is flexible enough to be "shingled" (lapped) into the tile assembly.

4. Eaves should shed water, not collect water.


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Any water that gets under the tile surface should have a way to shed off the roof at the time eave rather than being dammed at the roof edge.

Consult manufacturer's recommendations for the specific tile product. Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and

structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Flat Roofs Leak There are common problems in the construction of flat roofs.

1. Insufficient Roof Slope and Lack of Drainage


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The Uniform Building Code (UBC), 1988 Edition, requires roof systems to be sloped a minimum of 1/4 inch in 12 inches for positive drainage. Most manufacturer warranties require roofs to be free of ponding water 48 hours after a rainfall (consult individual manufacturer's specific requirements). Where water cannot drain over the roof edge, the UBC requires a roof drain and an overflow drain at every low point of the roof. Scuppers, or openings through the wall, can be used in lieu of overflow drains. The UBC requires that overflow scuppers be three times the size of the roof drain and have an inlet line located a maximum of 2 inches above the adjacent low roof point.

2. Omission of Cant Strips


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Some roofing materials are too brittle to make the 90-degree turn up the wall from the roof deck. Cant strips allow for the continuous transition of roofing materials without splitting or tearing that would permit water into the structure.

3. Lack of Proper Coping


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A properly sloped sheet metal coping at the top of parapet walls will reduce the potential for water intrusion and eliminate most staining from top-of-wall-run-off.

Stucco-capped parapet walls require a higher level of care in design and construction. Stucco does not prevent water intrusion, so the top of the wall should be waterproofed as if it were a roof.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Tile Installations Fail At Showers

Common Problems:
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Tile installed over water-resistant gypsum board (green board) instead of a mortar setting bed or cementitious backer board. Note: The Ceramic Tile Institute has questioned using green board as a tile substrate in wet areas such as tub/shower enclosures. Edge of green board above tub or shower pan lip is cut edge instead of the wrapped factor edge.

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Joints and penetrations are not sealed with a coat of ceramic tile mastic prior to tile installation. Insufficient gap (less than 1/4 inch) between the base of green board and the tub or shower pan. Lack of flexible sealant joint at the tile-to-tub or shower pan juncture.

Potential Damage:
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Water intrusion resulting in: Tiles popping off, Tile and grout cracking, Dry rot, structural damage, and framing movement.

Recommended Solutions:
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Install tile over a mortar bed or cementitious backer board such as "Durock", "Wonderboard", or equal, per manufacturer's installation instructions. Provide proper, flexible sealant joints at all fixture penetrations and tie-to-tub and shower pan junctures.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Soil Subsidence Most H.O.A. developments have had some type of soil work done, either the soil is removed (cut) or soil is added (fill) to balance for the grading. If this process is not properly monitored and tested for compaction, the soil may fail with consequential land subsidence. Common Soil Types:
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Expansive. Silt. Clay. Caliche. Diatomaceous. Rock.

Common Problems:
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Improperly compacted soils. Contaminants remaining in soils (Usually organic types of build up, i.e. lumber).

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Materials. Settlement. Improper design.

Possible Damage:
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Cracks in stucco. Cracks in drywall. Cracks in tile floors. Cracks in concrete flatwork. Cracks in slabs and garage flooring. Interior distress to cabinets and countertops. Cracks in windows. Doors that are difficult to open.

Why Some Shear Walls Fail

Shear Failure:
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Improper soleplate anchorage. Improper mailing of shear element (i.e. plywood, gypsum board, stucco). Tearing of shear element.

Drag Failure:
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Missing/inadequate top plate straps. Insufficient top plate splice. Undersized top plate.

Potential Damage:
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Cracked finishes. Water intrusion. Ruptured plumbing and gas lines. Partial or total collapse of framing.

Proper Design/Construction:

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Below Grade Walls Fail

Common Problems:
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Grade slopes toward building.

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Inadequate waterproof membrane. No protection board. No extension of waterproof membrane above grade or over footing. No foundation drain. No gravel or filter fabric around drain. No waterproof membrane under slab.

Potential Damage:
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Efflorescence and water stains on walls Ponding against building and on basement floors. Moisture migration though slabs.

The Five Basic Elements For Waterproofing Below Grade Walls:


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Waterproof membrane Protection board Gravel Fill Foundation Drain Filter Fabric

Recommended Solutions:
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Slope the finish grade away from the building, Install a membrane under the concrete building slab, Provide a cant strip to transition the waterproof membrane at any 90 degree angle, Install ultraviolet protection for the above-grade waterproofing.

Why Some Retaining Walls Fail

Common Problems:
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No drain installed. Drain installed, but no outlet for water. Drain installed without proper gravel and filter fabric - leading to clogging. Drain installed too high - allowing water pressure to build up below the drain.

Potential Damage:
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Excessive/unsightly leaning (rotation). Collapse. Excessive wall cracking.

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Soil/pavement buckling in front of wall. Soil subsidence behind wall.

Proper Solutions:
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Install continuous drain pipe embedded in gravel and wrapped in filter cloth. Drainpipe should be installed below the finish floor/grade and above the bottom of the footing.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

What Is A Hold Down Common Problems:


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Missing hold down. Undersized hold down. Improper location of hold down. Improper installation of hold down.

Potential Damage:
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Cracked finishes. Water intrusion. Ruptured plumbing and gas lines. Partial or total collapse of the framing system. Personal Injury,

Proper Construction:
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There are generally two types of hold-downs; the embedded strap and the anchor bolt hold down. There function is to prevent the end of a shear wall from lifting off the foundation. The following are the principal elements necessary for hold downs to function properly: A-Correct size of anchor bolt and/or hold down. B-Attached to the end stud by sufficient nailing or bolting. C-Nut tightened sufficiently on anchor bolt D-Bolt holes drilled to proper size E-Strap or bolt properly imbedded into foundation. Positioned properly at the end of the wall, adjacent to the end post. Positioned at the proper distance from the edge of the foundation.

Typical Hold Downs:

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497 .

Windows The size and style of windows installed at many homeowner association developments is usually varied and unique to the particular development. Windows are commonly manufactured using aluminum steel or wood as the frame material. Windows typically come with single glazed (one piece of glass per frame) or double-glazed (two pieces of glass per frame with a scaled air space between the glass).

Common Window Types:


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Horizontal or vertical sliding window with an adjacent fixed or non-moving window. Sliding glass doors. Fixed window (a window designed not to open). Green house or bay window.

Common Problems:
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Improper installation of windows at the sliding glass door. Improper installation of flashing paper or sheet metal flashings. Improper use of materials. Inadequate water proofing at balconies and decks with sliding glass door transitions. Water leaks through product corners.

Possible Damage:
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Staining of walls, windowsills, or floors. Mold or fungus visible on window frame, sill, or adjacent wall. Trapped moisture between panes on double-glazed windows. Water leaks into non-ventilated areas adjacent to windows. Mildew, fungus, and dry rot. Structural Failure. Sliding windows or sliding glass doors that are difficult to open and close. Windows that, when closed, allow air drafts into building. Cracked stucco. Gaps between stucco and window frames. Fogging between glass in double glazed windows.

Why Some Window Flashing Fails Common Problems:


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Incorrect sequencing of flashing installation resulting in improperly lapped building paper and BCRFM (barrier-coated, reinforced flashing material), often identified as Sisalkraft paper. BCRFM paper cut too short or missing. Use of improper materials in window flashing such as using cut-up building paper instead of BCRFM paper. Omission of butyl sealant bead around bottom and slides of window units between the flange and BCRFM paper.

Potential Damage:

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Water intrusion into the framing system and living spaces resulting in: Dry rot in the wood-framing system. Water-strained gypsum board. Damaged flooring materials, carpeting and interior furnishings.

Proper Solutions/Construction for Aluminum and Vinyl Window Flashing:


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Installation should be per Uniform Building Code Section 1707(b). Use only approved materials. Follow window manufacturers' details for installation of flashing materials. Follow industry standard details, such as those of the Plastering Information Bureau. Step 1: Application of Flashing Strips Step 2: Installation of Window Unit Step 3: Installation of Building Paper and Finishes

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

Why Some Sliding Glass Door Thresholds Fail Common Problems:


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Improper flashing. Inadequate vertical offset between the interior and exterior surfaces. Lack of a bituminous or plastic protection barrier between the aluminum threshold and the concrete or sheet metal substrate.

Potential Damage:

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Water intrusion into the framing system and living spaces resulting in: Dry rot in the wood framing system. Water-stained gypsum board. Damaged flooring materials, carpeting and interior furnishing. Corrosion of aluminum threshold due to lack of protection barrier.

Proper Solutions:
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Provide a 1-1/2 inch vertical offset between the interior and exterior surfaces. Provide a weather-tight, fully sealed or seamless sill/jamb flashing system that protects the corners of the threshold and counter flashes the deck system. Provide a bituminous or plastic protection barrier between the aluminum threshold and the concrete or sheet metal substrate.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.

The Demon Wood Rot Wood rot is fungal growth in the cellular structure of wood. It is caused by placing wood in locations where moisture is present for long periods. Wood rot can develop undetected in

enclosed, poorly ventilated areas such as crawl spaces. The subsequent deterioration can lower the load bearing capacity of framing and, if not arrested early, wood rot can completely consume the wood members. Any wood surface with long-term moisture contact may develop the fungal growth, but the end grain, where cut wood cells are exposed, is the most susceptible. Whereas the elimination of the moisture source will arrest further growth of the wood rot, prevention is by far the best remedy. This newsletter addresses several problem areas and the appropriate preventive details. Wood Stair Treads Should Not Be Buried in Stucco

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Option 1: A stucco screed could be used to provide vertical separation between the wood stair tread and the stucco. Option 2: A wood stringer held away from the stucco will allow water to flow through the assembly.

Finish Grade Too Close to Wood Structures


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Uniform Building code, Section 2516(c) 7, requires a six-inch minimum separation between finish grade and wood structures. Less separation poses a potential termite as well as wood rot problem.

Wood Star Stringer Deterioration


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Untreated Douglas fir is commonly used for stair stringers that are placed directly on a concrete slab, and often this practice develops wood rot if exposed to moisture. The Uniform Building Code, Section 2516 (c) 7, requires a decay-resistant, or pressuretreated, wood for stair stringers placed on a concrete slab on grade.

Wood Balcony Railings Often Leak into the Building Frame

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Railings often split and warp, generally offering little protection for the wall below. An additional layer of barrier paper, or a product such as "Jiffy Sea," should be installed over the standard building paper at the top of the wall. The barrier paper should lap down six inches on each side over the building paper. Slope the top railing member to alleviate standing water. All railing and trim members should be painted on all sides to reduce warpage and splits in the wood, including fresh end cuts. Caulking and flashing should be used at intersections to prevent water entry.

Note: This newsletter addresses concerns that relate to some common wood rot problems. There are a multitude of other conditions that can lead to wood rot damage. Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497. ______________________________________________________________________________ _______________ Why Some Floors and Ceilings Sag Common Terms:
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Uniform Load: Force evenly distributed over a relatively large area (i.e. a waterbed). Concentrated (Point) Load: Force localized over a relatively small area (i.e. a load bearing post or woman's spiked-heel shoe). Dead Load: Weight of permanent components, such as, roofs, walls, floor, etc. Live Load: Superimposed by use and occupancy, such as, people furniture, etc.

Common Problems:

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Improper design dies not account for the load the floor must support. Improper construction that increases span of framing or decreases size of framing members. User applies more load than anticipated for type of occupancy. Structural weakening by wood rot due to water intrusion and ponding.

Potential Damage:
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Ponding of water on exterior surfaces, such as, balconies or roofs. Cracking of finishes, such as, stucco or gypsum board. Walking surface excessively sloped and springy. Squeaking floors.

Typical Solutions:
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Add full-depth blocking between framing members to help spread out concentrated load to adjacent members (does not help for uniform loads). Add additional framing members to reduce the amount of load to each member. Provide additional support beneath the floor to reduce the span.

Information provided by Building Analysts, a full-service architectural and engineering firm with many years of experience in construction litigation. Their services include: architectural and structural investigations, repair recommendations, preparation of exhibits and expert testimony. Contact Building Analysts Toll Free at: (800) 352-1497.
Waterproofing "How To" Sheets Additional Info- Waterproofing BalconiesDownload this file

With existing structures, the balcony may be showing efflorescence as a bi-product of poor waterproofing design.

Efflorescence in the construction sector is characterised as an accumulation of calcium crystals and salts that disfigures the top, edges or underside of masonry. Efflorescence cannot form without water, so the problem is focused to external surfaces exposed to rain or from moisture leaching into the tiling system form elsewhere, such as groundwater, or planter boxes. The two key principles for minimising efflorescence are: First, minimise water entering the tiling system; Second, direct water that penetrates the tiling system to a designed outlet. Waterproofing membranes are key to the strategy.

Principles of Concrete Balcony Waterproofing to reduce efflorescence Principle 1: Minimising water entry

The entry of water into the tile screed can be minimised by a couple of effective methods: First, applying a waterproofing membrane both under and over the screed; Second by sealing the surface of the tiles and grout joints with a penetrating water repellent. The advantages of a waterproofing membrane both under and over the screed are that it excludes moisture from the tile screed, and it is better able to withstand movement and any cracking of the screed (the top membrane acts as a crack suppression membrane). Using only one membrane on top of the screed is acceptable, however, detailing the bond breaker/fillet joints is critical and difficult because it must occur at the junction of walls and floors and be contained within the thickness of the tile. The final step in minimising water entry is sealing the surface of the finished tiling and grout joints with a water repellent (also stain resistant). Most external tiling systems will benefit from the application of a penetrating repellent sealer, but should not be relied upon as the sole method of waterproofing. Water will eventually enter through small cracks in the system and require reapplication regularly.

Principle 2: Directing water to an outlet

The second principle for waterproofing and reducing efflorescence is to ensure that any water that penetrates the tiling or decorative surface is directed to a designed outlet. To enable this, it is imperative that there are positive falls in the substrate before any waterproofing membrane is applied. Substrate falls must not be allowed to go to a free drain unless the salt-laden water is collected by a gutter. A water-stop angle (90 degree extrusion) sealed to the surface or incorporated into the waterproofing system, fitted at free edges and behind nosing will ensure water is contained and directed correctly.

Products and methods of waterproofing concrete slab balconies

It is preferable that the balcony substrate is constructed to have a fall. However, many are constructed flat as the diagrams depict. Step 1. Membrane waterproof the slab

Step 2. Add screed to fall

Step 3. Apply membrane over the screed

Step 4. Apply water repellent over tiles

Optional Final Step. Once the balcony has been tiled, apply two coats of Hydrolpel as a penetrating water repellent.

Products and methods of waterproofing compressed cement sheet balconies

Follow the manufacturers instructions for substrate installation. The following steps will ensure waterproofing. Waterproof protection is easy and avoids damage.

Optional Final Step. Once the balcony has been tiled, apply two coats of Hydrolpel as a penetrating water repellent.

Check List for a Balcony Job.

Existing Balcony:
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Check drainage design to ensure adequate fall and water exit. Check for signs of efflorescence and likely causes. Assess if existing surface is suitable or removal of old screed required Does the slab require crack repair

Waterproofing Existing & New Balconies


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Membrane with fabric reinforcing all wall joints and exit points Membrane the slab Prepare screed to fall, may require splash coat to get good key Membrane over the screed, ensuring joints and exits are covered Assess if the finished surface requires a water repellent coating

Note: dont allow other trades to penetrate the surface of the balcony once the waterproofing process has been completed. A common problem is that balustrade is constructed after balcony has been waterproofed, resulting in waterproofing protection being compromised .

Water Intrusion: Balconies, Decks & Elevated Walkways


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Written By: Eric G. Amhaus 3-1-2005 Categorized in: Building Science, Forensic Services

The Problem: Have you ever seen an enclosed balcony, deck or elevated exterior walkway with a concrete topping slab or other surface that was leaking or had subsequent structural concerns due to the water entry? Unfortunately, these problems are all too common, but can be easily avoided if some very simple measures are taken in the design and/or construction process. What would someone call a deck, balcony or elevated walkway that did have a waterproofing membrane installed, but did not have the ability to drain water from the membrane? We here at Professional Investigative Engineers have a very scientific term we use to describe this type of construction, a bathtub. Obviously the proper application of the waterproofing membrane (whether it be sheet applied or fluid applied) and its flashings are of the utmost importance to ensure that water does not infiltrate into the supporting structure. However, there is another key factor that is frequently overlooked for long-term performance of a deck, balcony, or elevated walkway, with a topping slab or wearing surface, and that is the drainage of water from the system. The focus of this publication is not the waterproofing membrane(s) associated with decks, balconies or elevated exterior walkways but rather the drainage of water from these elements. The Industry: Why is it that no one disputes the membrane surface of a low-slope roof must drain, however the same or similar membrane surface under a concrete topping slab or other wearing surface installed over a balcony, deck or elevated walkway is not as important? The answer is simple: a lack of understanding, knowledge and even common sense. There are a few industry recognized organizations such as the NRCA (National Roofing Contractors Association) for roofing and waterproofing, and the SWRI (Sealant, Waterproofing & Restoration Institute) for below-grade waterproofing and plaza decks that publish a wealth and abundance of knowledge on how to properly construct a roof, waterproofing or plaza deck system. However, finding publications on decks, balconies and elevated exterior walkways is a whole different animal.

Unfortunately, to the best of our knowledge no one or single organization has been developed to provide industry wide standards on the proper design and construction of decks, balconies and elevated walkways. Why not you might ask? Well, the answer is pretty simple. The materials being used to waterproof these decks, balconies and walkways are the same materials used in the roofing and waterproofing industry. From a shear marketing and profit standpoint, these manufacturers focus their energies on the larger and more profitable piece of the construction market that they specifically service. Hence, the roofing and larger scale waterproofing sector. Balconies, decks and elevated walkways with a concrete topping slab or wearing surface are systematically similar to a plaza deck. In such, the proper design and construction of such systems should incorporate not only a waterproofing membrane, but also a composite drainage media and source or element for drainage at the membrane level. The Solution: So first we tackle the beast of slope! As one of my instructors (Colonel Thomas Dion, author of Land Development for Civil Engineers) at The Citadel in Charleston, South Carolina would say: Get rid of the water bubba! Whether you are a civil engineer designing a grading and drainage plan or you are an architect/roof consultant designing a roofing system, the number one rule is to remove the water. Unless of course your designing a pond, pool or bathtub. Therefore, prudent construction would include an accommodation for drainage both at the top of the wearing surface (concrete topping slab, tile, etc.) and also below the wearing surface at the top of the waterproofing membrane. The sloping of the wearing surface should be such that it adequately drains all water too either an internal drain system, thru-wall scupper or properly detailed perimeter edge flashing. The substrate or deck below the waterproofing membrane should therefore also be sloped to drain and have a space or media provided to accommodate the drainage of water beneath the wearing surface or topping material. All too often, the deck sheathing or waterproofing membrane is not sloped and the topping or wearing surface is placed directly over the membrane with no means for drainage between the two elements. The drainage at the waterproofing membrane level must also be controlled via an internal drain system, thruwall scupper or perimeter edge flashing detail. We all know water travels down hill (i.e. gravity flow). We also know that if there is no means for drainage, that water will collect or pond on the surface or substrate resulting in a number of problematic conditions whether that be in a grading/drainage, roofing or waterproofing scenario. Hence this ponding or standing water will result in a greater likelihood for leaks and the resultant problems that can follow thereafter. Products and materials developed specifically to handle these types of drainage conditions have been available for quite some time in the industry. Polyethylene composite drainage mats, dual level drains and perimeter edge systems have been used in below-grade waterproofing for years. While reasonable designers and builders have implemented such materials and practices into their construction, there will always be those who do not and therefore the problems will continue. When the wearing or pedestrian traffic-bearing surface is comprised of a concrete paver system, the water is meant to pass through the joints in the pavers to the waterproofing membrane

below. In these cases, the paver wearing surface will probably not be sloped, but there must be positive slope and a means for drainage at the membrane level. This means for drainage is often achieved in paver type systems due to the fact that the pavers are placed on pedestals that are elevated above the waterproofing membrane. The added benefit to the installation of a concrete paver wearing surface is that access to the waterproofing membrane for investigation, maintenance and repairs is relatively easy and non-destructive, as it only requires the lifting and removal of the paver(s) which can be easily reinstalled upon completion. In cases where a monolithic concrete topping slab or tile wearing surface is present, expensive demolition and full or partial replacement of the topping slab or wearing surface is required to facilitate the same investigation, maintenance and repair work. Final Thoughts: Failure to consider how a deck or balcony will accommodate drainage of water both at its wearing surface and the waterproofing membrane level is a design and construction consideration that must be given more thought by both the designer and the contractor/builder. Furthermore, additional considerations should be given to the utilization of concrete pavers or other such wearing surfaces that can be easily removed and replaced should access to the waterproofing beneath a balcony, deck or elevated walkway become desired or necessary for investigation, maintenance or repair. How can a designer or contractor expect an owner to inspect and maintain something that is not accessible! If it cannot be accessed, it must be assumed that it was built with not only the correct materials, but with the proper construction techniques necessary to last the entire life expectancy of the structure. For more information, please contact Matt Blackm

A common design characteristic of the H.O.A. developments is the inclusion of balconies or decks, and, if needed, exterior stair systems to access above ground dwellings. Improper design, manufacturing, or installation could result in a construction defect and damage. Unventilated areas with water intrusion causes dry-rot, fungus, and mold. These may result in failure to the interior structural framing and exposure of plywood decking that may cause failure of the deck membrane. Common Types:
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Tongue and groove wood plank deck (fully adhered system). Wood framed deck with elastomeric type coatings. Lightweight concrete decks.

Common Problems:
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Improper flashing. Improper deck to sliding glass door or front door threshold transfer.

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Improper deck to wall transition. Improper drainage or slope to drain. Improper deck finishing (coatings). Improper installation of deck skupper drains.

Possible Damage:
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Dry-rot. Deck/structural failure. Interior leaks. Stucco staining/cracking. Wood destroying organisms. Surface cracks or cheecking.

Balcony / Deck Failure There are four common problem areas in the construction of balcony surfaces. Not Enough Vertical Offset at the Door Threshold A 1-1/2 inch vertical separation between the interior and exterior surface is recommended:
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to avoid wind-driven water from getting inside. to provide a vertical surface to attach the waterproof membrane. to provide continuous "Z" -metal falshing. No Waterproofing on the Sides of the Balcony

The waterproof membrane should be extended up the vertical surface about 1-1/2 inches to create a continuous waterproof membrane along the balcony sides. Insufficient Slope Adequate slope of the balcony surface is needed to let water drain off fast. A 1/4-inch-per-foot slope from the wall to the drain and/or scupper is recommended for proper drainage. No Ridge to Deflect Water to the Scuppers is an Enclosed Balcony Without a ridge, commonly called a cricket or saddle, at the low end of the balcony, the water will puddle between to the drains or scuppers.

The following is a list of the common roof systems that are installed at homeowner association developments. Each system contains similar components: felt underlayment, plywood sheeting,

sheet metal flashing, etc. Improper manufacture or installation of one or more of the roof system components could lead to a construction defect and damage. Common Roof Types:
y y y y y

Clay Tile (sometimes called Spanish or Italian tile): Made from red clay, concrete or both. Asphalt Composition Shingle: Made or formed from an asphaltic, aggregate and fiber mixture. Flat Concrete Tile: Formed concrete typically flat and uniform in shape. Built-Up (BUR): Two or more layers of roofing material covering the same roof area, cemented together on the job. Wood Shake: Usually made from wedged shaped pieces of cedar.

Common Problems:
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Improper and incomplete sheet metal flashing. Missing or short cut roof underlayment felts. Improper use of materials. Improper slope to drain. Lack of Gutters. Roof leaks. Gutters separating, improperly installed, or missing.

Possible Damage:
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Stains and or destruction of walls, ceilings, or floors. Wet Insulation. Mold. Fungus. Wood destroying organisms. Dryrot. Structural Failure. Defective or broken tiles/shingles.

There are four common problem areas in the construction of tile roofs. 1. The ridge of the tile roof is left open to rain. The national Roofing Contractors Association (NCRA) and most manufacturers recommend that grout or other closure device be used to seal this exposed location.

2.

Open headwalls can be a source of leaks in a driving rain. Flashing and counterflashing as well as a grout closure are critical to provide a weather tight seal.

3. Roof penetrations installed without flexible flashing. The principal concept is to make sure that any flashing is flexible enough to be "shingled" (lapped) into the tile assembly.

4. Eaves should shed water, not collect water. Any water that gets under the tile surface should have a way to shed off the roof at the time eave rather than being dammed at the roof edge.

Consult manufacturer's recommendations for the specific tile product. There are common problems in the construction of flat roofs.
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Insufficient Roof Slope and Lack of Drainage The Uniform Building Code (UBC), 1988 Edition, requires roof systems to be sloped a minimum of 1/4 inch in 12 inches for positive drainage. Most manufacturer warranties require roofs to be free of ponding water 48 hours after a rainfall (consult individual manufacturer's specific requirements). Where water cannot drain over the roof edge, the UBC requires a roof drain and an overflow drain at every low point of the roof. Scuppers, or openings through the wall, can be used in lieu of overflow drains. the UBC requires that overflow scuppers be three times the size of the roof drain and have an inlet line located a maximum of 2 inches above the adjacent low roof point.

Omission of Cant Strips Some roofing materials are too brittle to make the 90 degree turn up the wall from the roof deck. Cant strips allow for the continuous transition of roofing materials without splitting or tearing that would permit water into the structure.

Lack of Proper Coping A properly sloped sheet metal coping at the top of parapet walls will reduce the potential

for water intrusion and eliminate most staining from top-of-wall-run-off. Stucco-capped parapet walls require a higher level of care in design and construction. Stucco does not prevent water intrusion, so the top of the wall should be waterproofed as if it were a roof.

The size and style of windows installed at many homeowner association developments is usually varied and unique to the particular development. Windows are commonly manufactured using aluminum steel or wood as the frame material. Windows typically come with single glazed (one piece of glass per frame) or double glazed (two pieces of glass per frame with a scaled air space between the glass). Common Window Types:
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Horizontal or vertical sliding window with an adjacent fixed or non-moving window. Sliding glass doors. Fixed window (a window designed not to open). Green house or bay window.

Common Problems:
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Improper installation of windows at the sliding glass door. Improper installation of flashing paper or sheet metal flashings. Improper use of materials. Inadequate water proofing at balconies and decks with sliding glass door transitions. Water leaks through product corners.

Possible Damage:
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Staining of walls, window sills, or floors. Mold or fungus visible on window frame, sill, or adjacent wall. Trapped moisture between panes on double-glazed windows. Water leaks into non-ventilated areas adjacent to windows. Mildew, fungus, and dry rot. Structural Failure. Sliding windows or sliding glass doors that are difficult to open and close. Windows that, when closed, allow air drafts into building. Cracked stucco. Gaps between stucco and window frames. Fogging between glass in double glazed windows.

Common Problems:

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Incorrect sequencing of flashing installation resulting in mislapped building paper and BCRFM (barrier-coated, reinforced flashing material), often identified as Sisalkraft paper. BCRFM paper cut too short or missing. Use of improper materials in window flashing such as using cut-up building paper instead of BCRFM paper. Omission of butyl sealant bead around bottom and slides of window units between the flange and BCRFM paper.

Potential Damage:
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Water intrusion into the framing system and living spaces resulting in: Dry rot in the wood-framing system. Water-strained gypsum board. Damaged flooring materials, carpeting and interior furnishings.

Proper Solutions/Construction for Aluminum and Vinyl Window Flashing:


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Installation should be per Uniform Building Code Section 1707(b). Use only approved materials. Follow window manufacturers' details for installation of flashing materials. Follow industry standard details, such as those of the Plastering Information Bureau. o Step 1: Application of Flashing Strips o Step 2: Installation of Window Unit o Step 3: Installation of Building Paper and Finishes

Common Problems:
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Improper flashing. Inadequate vertical offset between the interior and exterior surfaces. Lack of a bituminous or plastic protection barrier between the aluminum threshold and the concrete or sheet metal substrate.

Potential Damage:
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Water intrusion into the framing system and living spaces resulting in: Dry rot in the wood framing system. Water-stained gypsum board. Damaged flooring materials, carpeting and interior furnishing. Corrosion of aluminum threshold due to lack of protection barrier.

Proper Solutions: Provide a 1-1/2 inch vertical offset between the interior and exterior surfaces. Provide a weather-tight, fully sealed or seamless sill/jamb flashing system that protects the corners of the threshold and counter flashes the deck system.

Provide a bituminous or plastic protection barrier between the aluminum threshold and the concrete or sheet metal substrate. Common Problems:
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Tile installed over water-resistant gypsum board (green board) instead of a mortar setting bed or cementitious backer board. Note: The Ceramic Tile Institute has questioned using green board as a tile substrate in wet areas such as tub/shower enclosures. Edge of green board above tub or shower pan lip is cut edge instead of the wrapped factor edge. Joints and penetrations are not sealed with a coat of ceramic tile mastic prior to tile installation. Insufficient gap (less than 1/4 inch) between the base of green board and the tub or shower pan. Lack of flexible sealant joint at the tile-to-tub or shower pan juncture.

Potential Damage:
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Water intrusion resulting in: Tiles popping off Tile and grout cracking Dryrot, structural damage, and framing movement.

Recommended Solutions:
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Install tile over a mortar bed or cementitious backer board such as "Durock", "Wonderboard", or equal, per manufacturer's installation instructions. Provide proper, flexible sealant joints at all fixture penetrations and tie-to-tub and shower pan junctures.

Shear Failure:
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Improper sole plate anchorage. Improper mailing of shear element (i.e. plywood, gypsum board, stucco). Tearing of shear element.

Drag Failure:
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Missing/inadequate top plate straps. Insufficient top plate splice. Undersized top plate.

Potential Damage:
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Cracked finishes. Water intrusion. Ruptured plumbing and gas lines. Partial or total collapse of framing.

Common Problems:
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Grade slopes toward building. Inadequate waterproof membrane. No protection board. No extension of waterproof membrane above grade or over footing. No foundation drain. No gravel or filter fabric around drain. No waterproof membrane under slab.

Potential Damage:
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Efflorescence and water stains on walls Ponding against building and on basement floors. Moisture migration though slabs.

The Five Basic Elements For Waterproofing Below Grade Walls: 1. Waterproof membrane

2. Protection board

3. Gravel Fill

4. Foundation Drain

5. Filter Fabric

Recommended Solutions:
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Slope the finish grade away from the building, Install a membrane under the concrete building slab, Provide a cant strip to transition the waterproof membrane at any 90 degree angle, Install ultraviolet protection for the above-grade waterproofing.

Common Problems:
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No drain installed. Drain installed, but no outlet for water. Drain installed without proper gravel and filter fabric - leading to clogging. Drain installed too high - allowing water pressure to build up below the drain.

Potential Damage:
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Excessive/unsightly leaning (rotation). Collapse. Excessive wall cracking. soil/pavement buckling in front of wall. soil subsidence behind wall.

Proper Solutions:
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Install continuous drain pipe embedded in gravel and wrapped in filter cloth. Drain pipe should be installed below the finish floor/grade and above the bottom of the footing. There are generally two types of hold downs; the embedded strap and the anchor bolt hold down. Their function is to prevent the end of a shear wall from lifting off the foundation.

Proper Construction: The following are the principal elements necessary for hold downs to function properly:
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Correct size of anchor bolt and/or hold down. Attached to the end stud by sufficient nailing or bolting. Nut tightened sufficiently on anchor bolt. Bolt holes drilled to proper size. Strap or bolt properly imbedded into foundation. Positioned properly at the end of the wall, adjacent to the end post. Positioned at the proper distance from the edge of the foundation.

Common Problems:>
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Missing hold down.

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Undersized hold down. Improper location of hold down. Improper installation of hold down.

Potential Damage:
y y y y y

Cracked finishes. Water intrusion. Ruptured plumbing and gas lines. Partial or total collapse of the framing system. Personal Injury.

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