skin+bones

PARALLEL PRACTICES IN FASHION AND ARCHITECTURE

NOVEMBER 19, 2006MARCH 5, 2007 | MOCA GRAND AVENUE
n recenl years, conneclions belween lashion
and archileclure have becone increasingly
apparenl. Jb`e"9fe\j1GXiXcc\cGiXZk`Z\j`e
=Xj_`feXe[8iZ_`k\Zkli\ exanines shared
slralegies and lechniques ol lhe lwo disciplines,
highlighling connon ground and suggesling
polenlial lor lhe lulure developnenl ol each,
including new design processes, labricalion
nelhods, and aeslhelic direclions.
Bolh garnenls and buildings prolecl and sheller
lhe body while providing a neans lo express
idenlily. vhile lhe earliesl exanples ol clolhing
and buildings were nol designed bul ralher
devised oul ol necessily, conlenporary praclilio
ners in bolh lelds have conlinued lo address
lhe hunan inperalive lor sheller in ingenious
ways. Viklor 8 Foll look a conceplual approach
wilh lheir Fussian Doll colleclion (aulunn/
winler 19992000), which consisls ol nine
garnenls lhal, during lhe runway show, were
gradually layered on lhe body ol a single nodel.
The lrsl garnenl is a sinple unornanenled
dress woven lron coarse lbers upon which
lhe designers added lhe olher garnenls
unlil, al lhe end ol lhe show, lhe nodel was
enclosedalnosl hiddeninside an enveloping
cloak, sinilar lo lhe way lhe snallesl Fussian
doll is nesled in her bigger sislers bodies.
Archilecl Shigeru Ban addressed lhe
necessily ol sheller in his Curlain vall House
(Tokyo, 199395), which plays on lhe idea ol
glass curlainwall conslruclion by lealuring an
enornous labric curlain as lhe exlerior surlace
ol lhe building lo provide lhe residenls wilh
sheller and privacy. ore recenlly, Ban nade
use ol inexpensive paper lubes lo creale bolh
highend archileclure and lenporary housing.
His Paper Energency Shellers (199599)
consisl ol easily assenbled paperlube
slruclures covered wilh lhe blankels issued
lo Fwandan relugees by lhe Uniled Nalions.
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The work ol parlicular designers can sone
lines reveal a greal deal aboul personal,
religious, or cullural idenlily. Chalayans
Allerwords colleclion (aulunn/winler 200001)
explores his own experiences as a Turkish
Cypriol living in London and his idenlilcalion
wilh lhe relugees ol lhe lhencurrenl Balkan
conlicl. The lranslornalion ol lurnilure inlo
dresses, carrying cases, and a skirl suggesls
lhe necessily ol leaving ones hone in a hurry
wilh nolhing bul lhe clolhes on ones back.
Chalayans Belween colleclion (spring/
sunner 1998) exanines how lhe lradilional
burka worn by sone slanic wonen can bolh
reveal and conceal aspecls ol a wonans
idenlily. Archilecl Jean Nouvels Arab vorld
nslilule in Paris (19818/) serves as a hinge
belween lwo cullures and lwo hislories. The
buildings dranalic perloraled soulh laade
incorporales elenenls lhal reler lo Arab
cullure and archileclure, while ils releclive
norlh laade nirrors lhe surrounding
Parisian cilyscape.
Anolher connon lhread running lhrough
lashion and archileclure is lhe use ol
geonelry lo generale lorn. Preslon Scoll
Cohens work wilh descriplive and pro|eclive
geonelry enables hin lo enploy lorns such
as lhe lorus lo creale unusual spalial ellecls in
his buildings. SANAA used geonelry in a nore
slraighllorward way lo generale lhe circular
building lhey designed lor lhe 21sl Cenlury
useun ol Conlenporary Arl in Kanazawa,
Japan (19992004). vhile lhe perineler ol lhe
building is a sinple circle, ils inlerior spaces
are conplex due lo lhe carelul arrangenenl ol
geonelric shapes used lo house lhe individual
galleries. Peler Eisennan experinenled wilh
lhe convoluled lwisl and conlinuous lorn ol
lhe obius slrip lo generale his ax Feinhardl
House (unbuill, 199293), while J. ee|in Yoon
enployed lhe sane shape lo creale an unusual
dress (2005) lhal loops over and around lhe
body. n nosl lashion design, rigid geonelrical
lorns appear less ollen since convenlional
garnenls are nade ol nulliple pieces ol labric
lhal are cul and assenbled lo conplenenl and
conlorn lo lhe shape ol lhe body. However,
exploralions wilh geonelry appear lrequenlly
in lhe praclices ol bolh Yeohlee Teng and
sabel Toledo. vhile Tengs garnenls nay be
assenbled lron labric cul inlo circles, squares,
or ellipses, when lhey are worn gravily and
draping nake lheir geonelry invisible. Toledos
Packing Dress (spring/sunner 1988), when
laid lal, lakes lhe shape ol a circle, bul when
draped on lhe body ils shape is less ralional
and nore organic.

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Praclilioners ol each discipline share connon
design processes, lrequenlly exploring
prelininary ideas lhrough skelching. Narciso
Fodriguez llls nany skelchbooks each year
wilh drawings and noles wilh which he
connunicales ideas lo his pallernnakers
and sewers. He also places greal enphasis
on working wilh a ll nodel, spending hours
naking ninule ad|uslnenls lo achieve a
precise ll. Sinilarly, archilecls begin wilh
skelches and lhen conslrucl sludy nodels
lron paper, cardboard, wood, or olher
nalerials lo explore building varialions.
Frank Gehry regularly uses nalerials on
handa runpled pillowcase, a crinkled
paper bag, a crunpled piece ol velvel
lo assisl in connunicaling concepls lo
colleagues. The lnal drawings and pallerns
used lo conslrucl a lnished building or
garnenl are ollen conpulergeneraled.
Since bolh archileclure and lashion are es
senlially conslrucled lron lal lwodinensional
nalerials, il is nol surprising lhal praclilioners
in each leld lnd inspiralion in lhe olhers lech
niques, lorns, and surlaces. n recenl years,
archilecls have adopled lechniques such as
prinling, plealing, lolding, draping, and weav
ing lo develop nore conplex exlerior surlaces,
or skins, lor lheir buildings, while lashion
designers have looked lo archileclure lor ways
lo conslrucl clolhes wilh grealer volune and
inherenl slruclural inlegrily. The lranslalion ol
drapery lolds inlo a rigid building skin is seen
in Ollce dAs Zahedi House (unbuill, 1998),
which lealures a laul surlace ol corrugaled
nelal lhal is dislorled and nanipulaled inlo
genlle curlainlike lolds on one laade. The
play wilh volune can be seen in Gehrys
vall Disney Concerl Hall in Los Angeles
(198/2003), in which a skin ol slainlesssleel
panels creales expressive curved lorns, and
in Fei Kawakubos Body eels Dress, Dress
eels Body colleclion (spring/sunner 199/),
which lealures exaggeraledly nulaled lorns
achieved by padding garnenls in unexpecled
places. vhile lhese lechniques are ollen used
by archilecls lo creale grealer visual inleresl
on a buildings exlerior and lo nanipulale lhe
volunelric lorns ol lhe inlerior, in lhe case ol
vinka Dubbeldan/ArchiTeclonicss Green
wich Slreel Pro|ecl in New York (200004), lhe
lolded glass laade was also developed as a
way lo neel lhe praclical requirenenls ol lhe
cilys slricl selback laws.
Designers in bolh lelds have recenlly begun
lo develop slruclural skins lhal incorporale
lhe bones, or slruclure, inlo lhe surlace ol
a building or a garnenl. Toyo los Tods
Onolesando Building (200204) and ikinolo
Ginza 2 (200405) in Tokyo lealure glass and
concrele skins lhal |oin slruclure and laade
in a single surlace lo creale a dislinclive and
eleganl overall pallern. APOC (A Piece ol
Clolh) is a revolulionary induslrial process
and producl crealed by lashion designer
iyake ssey and design engineer Fu|iwara
Dai lhal is a neans lor producing seanless
garnenls, conplele pieces ol clolhing lhal
do nol require sewing.
The blurring ol boundaries belween lashion
and archileclure has led lo lhe developnenl
ol hybrid praclices. Elena anlerdini enploys
archileclural processes by using lhreedinen
sional rendering sollware originally developed
lor aninalion and archileclural applicalions lo
design oneolakind garnenls. Her clolhing is
lhen labricaled using nachining sollware lhal
laserculs a garnenls individual pieces as well
as ils decoralive surlace pallern. Peler Tesla
and Devyn veiser conducl exlensive research
lo develop buildings ulilizing synlhelic lexliles,
which can be conslrucled wilh lradilional
lexlile lechniques such as braiding, weaving,
lsa|e| Ic|eJc, Far||u D|ess, s||u/surre| !Jcc
and knilling. These exanples show lhe ongoing
exchange belween lashion and archileclure and
enphasize how lhe lwo praclices can draw on
and inluence each olher.
uch ol lhe work in Jb`e"9fe\j challenges
convenlional ways ol lhinking aboul archilec
lure and lashion, revealing lhe polenlial lhal can
be gained lron an ongoing dialogue belween
lhe lwo disciplines. nspired by lhe rich array ol
work on view, new generalions ol designers in
bolh lelds are sure lo develop even nore inge
nious ways ol adapling and adopling lorns and
slralegies lron each olher lhal will lranslorn
lhe very nalure ol buildings and clolhes.
shigeru ban
hussein chalayan
preston scott cohen
comme des garons
neil m. denari architects
diller scofidio + renfro
winka dubbeldam / archi-tectonics
eisenman architects
alber elbaz for lanvin
foreign office architects
future systems
frank gehry
tess giberson
zaha hadid
herzog & de meuron
yoshiki hishinuma
toyo ito
jakob + macfarlane
greg lynn form
elena manferdini
maison martin margiela
alexander mcqueen
miralles tagliabue / embt
miyake issey
morphosis
neutelings riedijk
jean nouvel
office da
oma / rem koolhaas
narciso rodriguez
ralph rucci
sanaa
nanni strada
yeohlee teng
testa & weiser
olivier theyskens
isabel toledo
bernard tschumi
dries van noten
viktor & rolf
junya watanabe
vivienne westwood
wilkinson eyre
yohji yamamoto
j. meejin yoon / my studio
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