Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2
Penhalvean Cottages in 1980 we received a letter from an Alice
Medlyn Gollmer in Lansing, Michigan, USA. She told us that she had
learned from a cousin still living in Stithians, that we had moved into
her Grandma Medlin's cottage. A series of letters then passed between
us over the next couple of years and we decided to research who else
had lived in the Cottage. This then is the result. It is pieced together
from the information sent by granddaughter Alice and from our own
research carried out at the Local Studies Library, Redruth.
Although Alice Ann Medlyn, born 1881, was not related to me I never
the less feel very close to her. You see she was born in the cottage in
which I sit and write and there are times when I feel that, in a pleasant
way, her spirit is still around her old home. I will always be grateful
that her granddaughter Alice took the time to write to us.
1
Penhalvean Cross
The land from Bos Elvan down to and including Mill cottage was part
of Tolgus Manor. Whose holdings also included the farm of Nanpean
on the Four Lanes road. In the 16th century the Manor belonged to the
Tregian family of Golden in Probus, who lost their lands through
adherence to the Roman Catholic faith. The forfeited lands were
purchased by a wealthy Camborne lawyer and money-lender, Ezechial
Grosse whose great granddaughter carried the manor in marriage to
Francis Buller Esq. of Shillingham in St Stephens in Saltash and this
family held the manor at the beginning of the twentieth century.
Early settlers in the area left their mark on the surrounding landscape
with later field names such as Round field showing the site of a bronze
2
age dwelling. The above cross head, which has been dated as early
Celtic (400AD), was dug up in the garden of “Bonython” house which
now stands on part of the field shown as No.157 on the Tythe map.
The cross would have originally marked the churchway or footpath to
St Stythians Church that was taken by funeral parties, who sometimes
walked many miles over difficult terrain to get to the church. At each
cross they would rest and sing a hymn, before carrying on their way in
procession to the burial in the churchyard. George Henwood in one of
his nineteenth century studies of "Cornwall's Mines and Miners" gives
the following description of one of these funeral processions in
Stithians parish:
..."Hark ! What means that distant deep melody, wafting o'er this wild
common?"..... exclaimed our tourists, one sultry Sunday afternoon, as
they pursued their walk over the downs near Stithian's church-town;
and "what means that black mass descending yonder hill side?"
enquired they of some stalwart, neatly dressed youths who were
winding their way at their utmost speed to join the approaching
throng. "That! why that is a berrin - a miners berrin"
You can still trace the routes taken by these processions in the far west
of Cornwall by studying the field names, and whilst putting the
Sennen Tythe map on the internet I noticed that a large number of the
fields were still referred to in the original Cornish, many bearing the
name of "Park an Grouse", (park = field & grouse a corruption of
crows = cross). It was therefore disappointing to find so many of the
3
old names had been lost by 1840 in Stithians and the field where the
cross was found was known as Pool Field. The influence of the
English language had been far more comprehensive in this part of
Cornwall although only a distance of some 25 miles separates the two
locations.
The fields connected with Penhalvean Farm (West) and the first
farmhouse, Penhalvean cottage’s are no exception. The Tythe map
gives the names in English and below I give these with the numbers as
shown on the Tythe map, which is reproduced below. Some of the
field names did remain Cornish and I have translated these into
English.
4
5
In 1664 a survey was taken in order to collect a tax that had been
placed on all hearths or chimneys in the land. Penhalvean was shown
as having two properties with hearths, one belonged to William Jenken
and the other to Renfrey Brown. William Jenken was the tenant of
what we now know as Penhalvean Farm East and his fields abutted
onto the farm of Penhalvear, which was farmed by his father.
Renfrey Brown farmed the West farm with his dwelling being on the
site of the present dwellings No’s 1 & 2 Penhalvean Cottages. Field
number 161 (Park Forth) being at what was then the front of the
building. The dwelling would have taken the form of a Cornish
Longhouse and the artist impression shows a single story building,
which was thatched. Although single storey the sleeping arrangements
usually took the form of a talfat or bed-place. This was a boarded area
within the roof space stretching over the spence (larder cupboard) and
part of the living room and was reached by a steep stair-ladder.
To the left hand side of the property was a barn for stabling the
animals. This would probably have included a horse for transport and
an ox for ploughing, a cow for milk and hens for eggs and eating.
Outside he would have kept at least one pig and the surrounding fields
6
and moor would have been home to a flock of Heath Sheep (Cornish
Sheep), which are known to be linked to the Bronze Age Soay type.
Their descendents are the Dartmoor breed. Although before the 15th
century the breed had a hair type wool, breeding had meant by the end
of the 17th century the sheep were mainly being kept for their wool.
The breed also produced an excellent tasting meat and a favourite dish
was Muggetty pie, made from sheep's entrails (muggets), parsley, and
cream. Renfrey would also have grown a cereal crop such as barley
and maybe some roots.
The one thing that has remained constant since the 17th century is the
great granite hearth or fireplace. This massive structure has stood the
test of time whilst the cottage around it has changed. It was the main
means of cooking all the family’s meals and providing hot water and
some form of heating during the cold days of winter. They would have
used furze, and turf for cooking and heat, gathering them from the
moor during the summer and putting them in ricks to dry. The ashes of
the fire were an excellent manure; so good, indeed, that it’s value as
manure is supposed to have paid for the trouble of cutting the fuel.
When cooking, the women kept the furze fire going under a brandis
(trivet). On this would be a good size crock with beef, mutton,
chicken, or even a nice piece of streaky pork, cooking away. There
would also be turnips, carrots or some other vegetables hung in
separate kipps (net-bags) on hooks suspended in the water of the same
crock When the vegetables were ready they were put to drain on bars
called “kip sticks,” placed across the crock whilst the meat was dished
up on a round pewter platter. If it was fowls, they would have had
melted butter and parsley poured on them.
7
The hearth decorated for Christmas 2003
When the cooking chores were finished the fire was scrapped into the
left hand back corner and turves laid over the embers and left to gently
smolder away all night. ( a close inspection of the fireplace reveals the
blackening of the granite in this corner as a result of this practice.)
Next morning a quick rake of the remains to the centre of the hearth,
the adding of some grigglans (= tiny bits of gorse) and the flames
would soon be jumping to life again.
8
The parish records do not record any births for children of Renfrey
Brown and in the year 1684 the farm passed to new tenants. At the
time, John Martin was the tenant of Penhalvean Farm East and the
adjoining Penhalvear and his new neighbours were Thomas Knuckey
and Jane Reed who had married at St Stythians. Jane's family lived at
Nanpean Wartha (Wartha = Higher) whose fields are only separated
from Penhalvean farm by the lane going to Four Lanes. Her family had
come from Wendron where Phillip Reade, Jane's great grandfather, in
his will dated the 8th of August 1605, had requested that he be buried
in Wendron Church. He was a man of some standing and substance
and made bequests to the poor of Wendron, Gwennap, Stithians and
Redruth as well as to an apprentice who appears to be a carpenter. This
last fact could mean that carpentry was his own trade. The inventory
carried out after his death showed that he left property and goods to
the value of £60.
Phillip's son, James Reed was named as executor of his father's will
but was a minor at his death. He signed the Protestation return in
Wendron 1641/2 and is shown as having paid 1s in the Poll Tax of
Wendron 1660. He married an Elizabeth and they had six children and
the eldest of these, John b1625, married a girl called Thomasine some
time around 1645. This couple's first four children were born in
Wendron parish but his fifth was born in Stithians in 1655, as were the
next four. Jane was the sixth child and she was born at Nanpean
Wartha in 1657. John paid tax on two hearths in Stithians in 1664
(these had belonged to Walter Pearse in 1662 and were probably at
Nanpean Wartha).
9
In his will which was dated 14 Jan. 1687/8, John is shown as "A
Yeoman of Stithians", he mentions his leasehold tenement of Nanpean
Wartha and his lease of one third of Nanpean Whollas [ Whollas =
Lower]. A George Brea occupied the other two thirds in 1646 and he
was still there in 1687. The inventory totalled £40, including the land
at Nanpean Wartha where he lived which was valued at £12.
The first Jane must have died because on the 10th March 1687 a second
Jane was baptised and two years later a third daughter Ann was
baptised on the 11th October 1690.
In 1693 the couples first son was born and baptised Hugh on the 25th
of April 1693, however, he died shortly after just as their first daughter
had. A second son who they also named Hugh was born in August
1696. The couple went on to have two further children, Sarah who was
baptised on the 27th of February 1700 and John baptised 7th
November 1702.
As well as working his fields, it is believed that Thomas and his father
in law worked a tin stream in the valley below Nanpean. This is the
stream which now fills the Stithians reservoir.
10
were therefore of no great size but were adapted to the country being
strong and hardie, sure footed and protected by hoofs of peculiar
hardness, fit to resist the rough roads over which they had to travel.”
Being some distance from the coast Thomas and Jane would not have
had the benefit of seaweed, and the dung heap would have been the
source of their fertilizer. They would have used contraptions known as
dung jars to move it from the heap to the fields, and these fitted onto a
wooden saddle on the pony’s back. The jars had swinging bottoms,
which meant that the manure could be spread onto the field without
having to remove the jars from the pony's back. Other type of wooden
saddle known as long or short "crooks" were used for moving hay,
faggots of fuel, wood etc. and these were arched shaped and had pegs
protruding on either side.
Thomas re-married around 1753, and his second wife was also called
Jane (surname unknown). Their first-born was also baptised Thomas
on the 17th October 1754, and they went on to have seven other
children, John, 1759, Avis 1760, Jane 1763, Richard 1766 twins Hugh
11
and James 1769 and Elizabeth who was born in January 1775 but died
in the April.
The well which still remains in the garden today with the water being
used as recently as 1983 for a lovely cup of tea.
The family got its water from a well that had been sunk to a depth of
thirty feet. In the 17th century the water would have been used to
make a type of barley beer, which made it safer to drink, but by the
middle of the century there would be another small pot of water
boiling on the hearth for the tea. There was no such thing as a tea
kettle then in the parish, nor for many years afterwards, however, the
table was laid with a tea-set of old India china brought into Falmouth
by one of the East India Companies ships who carried many china
items as ballast as this did not contaminate the cargoe of tea. The tea-
pot was very small and the cup was a little larger than a thimble.
12
first imported it from Holland, but it was very expensive at £3 per
pound and it stayed around that price until 1707.
The wool was exchange for goods such as spirits, tobacco silks and
lace. However, in 1717 tea became an item that was bartered for
English wool by the smugglers and tea took over from spirits as the
favourite cargo. Between 1717 and 1726 around 700,000 lbs a year
were smuggled in.
“Since an excise duty of 4s per lb. was laid on tea, it has brought an
average of £130,000 a year into the exchequer, which is but for
650,000 pounds weight of tea. But that the real consumption is vastly
greater a single fact will prove. Some years ago the treasurer of our
East India company received a letter from Holland intimating that one
person in the province of Zealand smuggled yearly for England no less
than half a million pounds. Though this seemed incredible the
directors upon inquiry, were convinced of the fact that such a person
there was who, some few years before had been but an English sailor,
13
was now married to a woman who kept a china shop, and had so well
managed affairs that he had four sloops of his own constantly
employed in smuggling; that the quantity of tea which he was
supposed to export had not at all been magnified, and that he had
more guineas and English specie in his house than any banker in
England.”
The remedy proposed by the author was a tax of from 5s. to 20s. on all
families that drank tea, which will bring a smile to the face of modern
political economists. The consumption of tea in the whole of Great
Britain was computed at 1,500,000 lbs a year, the price of which in
bond was from 5s.9d to 6s.10d per lb.
14
Below are a selection of clay pipe bowls found by the author. The first
two pipes on the top row date from the 1600's and the third and forth
pipes are Churchwardens and date from the beginning of the 1700's.
No. 5 on the top row is a late 1700's ladies pipe and the one next to it
is a pipe bowl bearing bull or buffalo horns. This may have been made
for the members of the Royal Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes when
the organisation was started in the early 1800's. The final two pipes
date from the 19th century.
15
will upon a trial do justice to an officer of the revenue;
therefore, unless you agree to this clause, an officer, in
any such county, who faithfully performs the duty of his
office, must expect to be assaulted, beaten, and bruised,
every day of his life; because the people of the county
know that he can never recover a verdict against
them.”
Many of the farms of Stithians and the district around possess caves
cut in the marl or pot-granite. These usually consist of a tunnel,
extending in one case for fifty feet, with branches on either side. These
branches are not usually more than ten or twelve feet in length, but one
that branched from the main tunnel at Mount Wise, near Carnmenellis,
took sixty cartloads of material to fill the gap it left after it had
collapsed beneath the weight of a steam’ traction engine in the early
1900's. There are, or were, examples of these caves at Mount Wise,
Filtrick, Gregwartha, Hendra, North Penhalurick, and Nanpean near
Penhalvean.
16
Watch the wall, my darling, while the Gentlemen go by!
The couple had five children, and in order to feed them John also
found time to carry on the two occupations of mining and farming. For
centuries the Cornish had been taking tin from the streams and valley
bottoms and the Reed family was one that had gained much wealth as
a result. Although most of their living had come from tin streaming by
the 18th century streaming was fast being replaced by underground
mining and the Reed family are known to have invested in a number of
ventures and the title of “Tinner in Stithians” did not necessarily mean
that Richard dug for the tin but meant that he was what was known as
an adventurer who put money into a mining venture.
The couple had seven children and they named the forth one Susanna.
This Susanna married her third cousin, James Knuckey of Penhalvean,
at Stithians Parish Church on the 10th of July 1794
17
The marriage of Susanna Reed and James Knuckey seems to have
coincided with the end of the three lives or 99 year lease. Whilst some
land was let by the year, it was common to grant leases for 7,14, or 21
years. However, It was also usual to grant leases for three lives. All
land let for buildings was let in this way. The tenant builds a house,
and nominates three lives. When all these three people are dead, the
house belongs to the owner of the land. But generally, when the lives
get old, or one has died, the tenant makes a new agreement with the
landlord, and puts up three new lives, on condition either of giving the
landlord a sum of money, or of laying out an additional sum on the
premises. Farmland is also let in the same way; If a man has a lease on
a piece of land at a rent of say 40s a year and the lease was to expire at
the termination of three lives, the tenant had a right to vote as a
freeholder for a member of parliament for the county as long as he was
named as one of the lives. But if the wording of the lease stated it was
to expire at the termination of three lives, or at the termination of 99
years, then the tenant had no vote. It was usual to put in the deed this
clause about 99 years, in order to prevent the tenant voting.
With the new lease, James and Susanna seem to have agreed to build a
new farmhouse to replace the small single story dwelling that had
served the farms tenants for more than a 100 years. The site chosen for
the new farmhouse was part of the Meade field and once the lease was
agreed, the new house was erected along with other buildings and a
new well was dug to serve the house. Today this building stands in the
farmyard with the upstairs being used as a rest room for the workers
and the downstairs as a butchery.
18
Penhalvean West Farmhouse C. 1795
A stable block and other outbuildings were erected at the same time
and this then became the new dwelling and farmyard.
Just three months after their wedding, James and Susanna were back in
Stithians church for the baptism of their first child on the 8th Of
October 1794. The child was a boy and they named him Thomas after
James's father.
Farming in Cornwall had changed little over the centuries and the
following will give some idea of just what life was like for James and
his young family in the first twenty years of the 19th century.
The farm consisted of just over 18 acres of land divided into nine
fields plus the new farmyard. These small farms were the norm in
Cornwall and the farm across the road, Penhalvean East, was just 30
acres and the one belonging to Susanna’s father at Nanpean Wartha 15
acres.
A Cornish bushel of the best wheat weighed around thirty score (600
lbs). The Quaker corn-dealers would not buy it if it weighed less than
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570 lbs. Red wheat weighed rather more than the white. When ground,
a bushel of corn produced around 510 lbs. of flour, and 60 pounds of
bran. A bushel of barley produced around 480 lbs., and from this they
produced 420 lbs. of flour.
The wheat bran was used for fattening fowls and pigs, whilst the
barley bran was good for nothing, unless to burn.
In 1811 the price of wheat was £1 2s. 8d. a Cornish bushel, and barley
16s. 0d. per bushel. This was considered a high price for barley in
proportion to wheat; and is accounted for by the demand for barley to
make malt.
It was the custom for people to buy their corn from the farmer, and
send it to the miller to be ground. The miller would then take as his
toll, one twelfth of the quantity ground. Some people preferred paying
in money, and then the charge for grinding a bushel of wheat was 6
shillings, and barley, 3 shilling.
James like his father before him would have ploughed his fields with
his own oxen; it was reckoned that two oxen were equal in pulling
power to a horse. The ox was attached to the plough or cart by means
of a wooden yoke round his neck as unlike a horse whose strength is in
the shoulders, the chief strength of an ox is in his neck.
The reason that James would have preferred an oxen was because they
cost less to keep. In summer they lived on grass; whilst in winter they
lived on wheat-straw—scarcely any hay. Secondly, the flesh of a
working ox was better than the flesh of one which had not been
worked. The reason for this was that when they intended to fatten an
ox for killing, they fed him little until he was thin, then turned him into
the pastures, to get fat. All his flesh was then new, and made excellent
beef. Although it must have taken more time to plough a field, James
unlike the larger farms did not have to pay a ploughmans wages or hire
a contractor to do it for him. Contractors in the 1820’s charged the
20
following prices:
For Ploughing: 4s. or 5s. an acre and a “handy” man could plough an
acre a day. But he ‘would drink a gallon of beer during the day, which
could cost him 2s.
Reaping wheat: 5s. an acre, and, in some places, a lunch and beer
besides.
James would have mown his oats and barley like hay, but then he
would have bound up the sheaves, like the wheat. The oat and barley
straw was used in the winter as fodder for the cattle, instead of hay
which was fed to the horses and mules
21
The sand was only taken from places over which the sea had rolled
when the tide was in. The farmers never touched the dunes, because
they said that dune sand was not so productive. In 1820, Dr. Paris, a
physician of Penzance, wrote a paper in which he mentioned this
circumstance as a proof of the utility of salt as manure. He said that the
virtue was not in the sand, but in the salt. Ore-weed may well have
owed part of its virtue to the same cause, but it is of a fat oily nature,
and was adapted admirably for potatoes. It was used in great quantities
in order to produce early potatoes, which were selling in the 1820’s at
a high price, sometimes as high as 2s. 6d. a gallon. But the potatoes
were said to always taste of ore-weed. It was also claimed that when
cows were fed on turnips, their milk, butter, and flesh always tasted of
turnips.
It was customary for farmers, the year before they intended to sow a
field with wheat, to allow miners and other people to plant (teel)
potatoes in it. This was supposed to pay the farmer well; for the
following wheat crop would be more abundant. But the increased crop
arose not from any virtue in the potatoes, but from the quantities of
manure brought by the people who planted the potatoes. It was the
norm for miners to keep a pig in a sty in the garden and feed it on
scraps plus the waste potatoes.
As we said earlier, sheep would certainly have been kept and a bale of
wool that would sell for £7 in England brought £18 in France which
made it a profitable crop for farmers involved in the smuggling trade.
22
James would also have raised beef and It was the practice in Cornwall
for the farmers of land to buy cows, and let cows and land together to
dairymen, at so much per cow. At the time that James took over the
farm it was eight guineas. The dairyman was obliged to rear as many
calves as the cows produced, provided the farmer was inclined to rear
them. Some years could be poor for the dairymen, for during the hot
weather the cows gave little milk.
The dairyman would also make Cornish cream and butter. This was
done by scalding the milk by placing it in a broad pan over a dull fire
for about half an hour, until it had a certain appearance, by which they
could tell it is scalded enough. The milk remained in the pan for two or
three days, and the cream rose to the top of the milk. The cream was of
a thick consistence and covered with a thin yellow wrinkled skin. By
this means the cream is much better, though the milk is not so good.
So the Dairyman would feed it to pigs along with potatoes which, he
like the miners, grew on land which the farmer was preparing to plant
with wheat the following year. Part of the cream would then be put
into a churn and made into butter. By the 1820’s so much common
land was being enclosed that fuel was becoming scarce. The following
letter was sent to the West Briton on the 21st of March 1823:-
“Sir…. I must remark on the very objectionable smoky taste our butter
often acquires from the milk being scalded over a furze or turf fire;
and though much of this taste goes off when the butter is salted, yet I
believe it is more for the interest of the dairy-man to churn than scald.
I will not pronounce absolutely that a greater quantity of butter is
produced from the same milk by churning, though I am led to think so,
and the dried pellicle on the surface of scalded cream, shewing there
has been great exaporation, would seem to prove it; but churning
would have other good effects, it would save fuel, now become very
scarce, and butter will keep better than when made from scalded
cream; but above all, by meeting the taste of customers, the dairy-man
would get a better price.”
23
In the next few years a further four children were born to James and
Susanna:
His brother, John was to follow a career in mining and went to work at
the local mine that was owned by the Buller family who also owned
Penhalvean Farm and a large number of mineral rights in the Redruth
area including those for Trewirgie Downs and Wheal Beauchamp, and
in 1819 the first shaft was sunk for the Wheal Buller mine, which is
situated about a mile to the north of Penhalvean.
The mine commenced its working life with 11 tons of copper ore being
brought to the surface in the first year, and had access to what were
believed to be one of the richest copper grounds in Cornwall and by
1825 over a mile of tunnels had been created and 6,230 tons of ore
recovered.
John Knuckey worked at the mine from the age of ten, first on the
surface but then underground as a miner. He worked alongside three
brothers who came from Stithians and they became the best of friends.
As a result of this friendship John met their sister Elizabeth Odger and
the couple got married on the 30th of June 1836 at Illogan by special
licence. The register gives the following details: -
24
Witnesses were Elizabeth Williams and John Willoughby.
Just when John and his family left Penhalvean we do not know but a
daughter Susan Ann was born in 1852 at Wendron. She went on to
marry a Mr RICHARDS [?] in December quarter of 1871 at Redruth
and on the 1881 census she is shown as a widow living at 7 Stray Park
Road, Camborne with her two children and her mother Elizabeth
Knuckey, who is also shown as being a widow.
The 1851 Census for Penhalvean shows that John’s father James
Knuckey was now a widower and was still working the farm. Two
sons and two daughters were still living at home, with the eldest,
James (23) shown on the census as being an innkeeper. The census
does not give any clue as to were the inn was.
25
This son married Emma Odgers the daughter of William Odgers and
Mary Bath of Stithians on the12th July 1851 and a daughter Susan
Jane was born on the 13 Sep 1851.
The second son Richard (20) is shown as a miner and may have been
working at the Buller mine as in 1848 a decision was taken to re-open
it in the hope of finding tin. The new workings were to the north and
west of those closed in 1840. In 1851, the shaft was being sunk deeper
in order to reach the lode, and because it was no longer profitable to
raise the ore by the use of a horse powered whim the mine owners
decided to order a steam powered winding engine.
The mine now needed someone to drive the new engine and William
Medlyn, who had gained experience as an mine engine driver in the
mines of the Breage / Sithney district, was employed. He brought his
new wife who was pregnant with their first child to live in the old
farmhouse, which was now let as a cottage, separate from the farm. By
1853 the mines monthly profit had risen to £5,170 and two more
engines were ordered one of them from Harvey's of Hayle. The
shareholders soon started to do well and in 1855 they received £53,760
in dividends, representing 72% of the gross value of the ore, and the
mine paid the highest dividend to its shareholders of any mine in
Cornwall in 1856.
26
Before the introduction of skips men would have had to climb ladders
down into the mine and then done a days work before climbing all the
way up again. When I worked underground at South Crofty some
years ago I would have to climb the ladders between levels in Cooks
Kitchen shaft in order to carry out maintenance on electrical
equipment. The shaft was used to carry ore to the surface so had a
kibble rather than a skip in place most of the time. Climbing around
200 feet of ladders at a time in temperatures of around one hundred
degrees. I found exhausting. However to have to face the prospect of
climbing a thousand feet after spending eight hours hand drilling the
blasting holes in granite must have been terrible. William the engine
driver would have been a popular man amongst the miners, who knew
he had the power to give them either a smooth or a bumpy ride up or
down the shaft,
27
Penhalvean. Smuggling had by this time almost ended and it may have
been that he no longer had access to cheap spirits.
The 1861 census shows that William and Alice Medlyn had come
from outside the parish but that their children had all been born within
it.
1861 Census
Shortly after this census was taken Alice Ann Medlyn was born and at
her baptism when the time came for the clergyman to ask for the name
of the child, her father replied "Alice Ann, Sir”. The minister then
proceeded to baptise her “Alexander”, and although this is the name
shown in the register it was ignored for the rest of her life.
1865 must have been exciting for the young Alice as a baby brother
was brought into the world. Alice loved little Joseph and enjoyed
helping to look after him and the knowledge gained would be put to
good use later. The year also saw the building of a new chapel in
Penhalvean the land being given by the Buller Estate and the cost of
the building was £120. At the same time another much larger chapel
was being built just down the road at Penmennor which was to cost
£1,200. These chapels were the result of splits amongst the local
Wesleyan families following a falling out over of all things the tea
treat.
28
I wonder what the preacher took as his text on that first Sunday
morning at Penhalvean where the majority of the families earned their
living from mining? Maybe he took it from Job chapter 28 :-
"Truly there is a mine for the silver, and a place for the gold so fine;
Iron is dug up from the earth, and the earth pours forth its copper.
Man digs into darkness and explores to the utmost bound."
Surely a text written for the Cornish. And was the first hymn to be
sung one that was suited to a mining community whose homes are at
the head of the moor?
O Lord! we mining children raise Here on the broad and rocky moor
A grateful song to Thee; We utter all our hearts,
Thou wilt accept the feeblest praise And all our supplications pour
From all that bend their knee In simple, tuneful parts.
The ironic thing was that at the time these new chapels were being
opened, the fortunes of Wheal Buller and other mines in the district
had started to decline. Stithians population had reached its peak in
1841 with a population of 2530 which had more than doubled in 40
years. It then started to decline to 2385 persons in 1865
"In ten years our production of copper ore has decreased from
147,330 to 88,603".
Most cornish mines had found the same so the adventurers at Wheal
Buller decided to go for tin.
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1840 Clomen Cat
Thankfully whilst Wheal Buller failed in the change over to tin, other
mines just over the hill such as Dolcoath, Tincroft, East Pool, Wheal
Agar and South Crofty succeeded. Captain Taylor who had interest in
many mines in the area had led the adventurers at the Buller mine, and
with the closure William and his sons, William and John who had
worked alongside their father would have gone to work in one of
those. Other Stithian families made their minds up to move out of the
area and the population fell by almost 200.
The years up to 1875 saw two sisters Sarah Jane and Ethel Linda join
the family brood. The1871 census shows the whole family
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1871 Census
They were all living together in what was then a 2 bedroomed cottage
lit with whale oil lamps and candles. For water they relied on the well
in the garden. Like most other mining families the Medlyns kept a few
hens and a pig, and William and his two eldest sons grew vegetables to
help feed the family.
As Alice grew she helped her mother with the younger children and
the 1881 census shows that Alice aged twenty had left home and was
working as a children’s nurse for Arthur Evans Corin. a Flour and
Provisions merchant at 36 Fore Street, Redruth.
Her eldest brother William had married and was living with his wife
Charlotte and two children Elizabeth and William at Davey’s Row in
Tuckingmill, Illogan. This is now part of Camborne and he might well
have worked at Dolcoath as he is shown on the census as a miner.
However, a few years later, with the closure of the many mines in the
area, William moved with his young family to London looking for
better prospects than down a mineshaft. He eventually became the
owner of a draper’s shop in the big city.
Alice’s father and mother were still living in Penhalvean and the
census shows the following.
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1881 Census
Whilst in Redruth, she had met and fallen in love with Bill Symonds
(Simmonds) but in late 1881 the mine where he worked closed and he
decided to join others who were leaving Cornwall for America.
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Alice wrote back along the following lines.
“Dear Bill:
“Your letter written by your friend came yesterday. I am glad you
are well and making friends. Mr. Cornish must be a good man. I
hope to meet him some day. “And the money came, too. I shall be
as careful as I can, and save some from each note you send.
“It must be bitter cold there with so much snow. I try to fancy how
it looks, so deep and white everywhere. How do women walk in it?
“How do you live, so many in one house? What do they do on
Sundays when all are at home? Does one woman cook for all of
them?
“I know you miss your Ma and Pa and I am glad Jake is with you.
How far is Central from where you are? Give Jake my regards.
When Grace hears from Tom she comes in and we talk.
“Do you think you would like to live in America for good? You
did not say.
“Tell me about the work, Bill, if it is as hard there as it is here. I
suppose mining is mining the world over.
“I am glad you are going to school. It must be hard after a day’s
work, or to get out of bed to study; but it will be like talking
together when you can write. The schoolmaster must be a good
man too.
“I am well, Bill. Don’t worry about me, my love. My mother
comes in every day. Your mother does almost every day.
“Bill, it is good of your friend to write for you and he makes an
interesting letter, but I can’t wait till you write yourself.
“I was just thinking this might reach you for Christmas. I hope it
does.
“Here’s a whisper, my dear. We all send our love to you.
“I love you, Bill.
“Your wife,
“Alice”
Within the year Alice went to join him. She booked through tickets
from Redruth to Liverpool and as soon as she stepped on the platform
at Liverpool, people were asking her to let them take her to this or that
Hotel. However, Alice had already booked into a hotel, which was
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used regularly by Cornish people and known as “Fairburn and
Marrack”. Here she met people, from all parts of Cornwall, some were
travelling to America, others recently landed, were bound for
Cornwall, at the White Star Line office, she collected her ticket which
she had booked in Redruth before leaving and was informed that the
ship would not sail for a day or two. She was paid retaining money as
compensation for waiting beyond the usual time for starting as
advertised. Alice had travelled with some other Redruth people and
they had time to look around Liverpool. She wrote later that it was a
large town “much finer and bigger than Redruth”, with better streets
and fine public building. On the Sunday while waiting for the ship, the
group paid a visit to New Brighton on the other side of the River
Mersey, in a steamboat. She wrote “There is a long stretch of sands, all
along the shore it appeared to be a kind of holiday resort, all supplied
with swings, Band of music, in fact full of attractions for the visitor.”
Just before leaving Fairburn & Marrack’s to board the ship, some three
or four women natives of Liverpool or residents begged money of
some of the passengers, which they refused to give. They then fell on
their knees in the street, and asked for all who should sail in the
steamer to be lost at sea, which I am happy to say never happened. To
get on board the ship was quite a scramble, with the dockside one
crowded mass of living freight, each eager to get to their respective
places on board, luggage pitched here and there, as if it were simply so
much ballast, all confusion and anxiety for each individual self. In a
short time the “Germanic” steamed slowly down the river, the open
sea was soon gained, and Alice stood on the deck looking at the shores
she had left behind. The Welsh cliffs could very clearly be seen, with
their bold headlands dipping in the sea. Early the next morning the
ship was off Queenstown, in Ireland and cast anchor, and lay there for
some hours. Alice like other passengers wrote a postcard for home,
and then viewed the landscape. After receiving a tugboat or two of
Irish passengers, the ship steered right off Cape Clear and out into the
open Atlantic. The cry a man overboard went thro the ship, the engines
were immediately reversed, boat lowered, but failed to save the
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drowned man. It turned out to be a steward, who jumped overboard
under “the influence of drink.” The passage was a very good one and
eyes were strained every now and then to catch a glimpse of land. On
the tenth day land ahead was seen, and the ship was safely anchored in
the Bay, directly opposite Manhattan Island on which New York is
built. After a long delay, Alice was landed in Castle Gardens on the
16th of April 1883. The office she passed thro was a very large
building, clerks or officers of United States government stood up in
pulpits, -calling and asking for information respecting the fresh
arrivals. Alice’s name was recorded, also what part of the States she
was going too. There were friends awaiting the arrival of the expected
ones and also a good supply of Hotel runners. Mr Blake a Cornishman
from St Austell owned and ran the Miners Arms in Front Street close
to the docks. This was soon reached, and accommodation for all of
those who came from Cornwall was supplied. Bill had arrived to meet
her the day before and they had a wonderful reunion. On the next day
a start was made on the journey to Michigan. The railway carriages
were packed with travellers, and Alice’s adventures in America had
begun.
Back home in Penhalvean, Alice’s father had become ill and a few
weeks after arriving in America news came from home that he had
died. Alice sat down and penned the following:
I left at home a parent dear, Although his body in chapel yard lies
A father kind and true, His soul has passed away
And parted, yea from him I loved, To dwell with him above the sky
My pleasure to pursue. Who taught us how to pray.
Sad news indeed it was to me Two children from their home had gone
To lose a father dear Their duty to perform
But when I think of by-gone days We little thought that death's cold sleep
He is better off than here. Had taken our father from home.
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Although we have lost a father dear
And missed him from our home
We would not wish him back again
What ever us betide.
Alice Ann Medlyn .
Of the other Medlyn children, John joined the army and served in
Africa where before returning home he purchased a monkey and a
parrot, which he brought back to the cottage. The monkey soon died of
the cold but the parrot lived for many years, but had to be covered up
when visitors came around as the sailors on board the ship coming
home had taught it to swear, or so trooper Medlyn told his mother.
Joseph the last of the boys sailed for America and settled in Colorado.
He did well and a few years later met and married a young girl who
became pregnant. Unfortunately both mother and child died in
childbirth and Joseph sent a letter to his mother in Penhalvean in
which he wrote, " I'm crying, cursing God and dying of a broken
heart." His mother never heard from him again. All attempts at trying
to find what happened to him have so far been unsuccessful.
36
Ordinance Survey map 1888
37
By 1891 it was just Alice and her youngest daughter Ethel who were
living in what was now number 2 Penhalvean.
The other half of the cottage had been let by the Buller Estate to a
James Andrew and his family.
26,Penhalvean,1,James Andrew,Head,M,53,,Agricl.
Labourer,Employed,Stithians Cornwall,,
,,,Jane B
Andrew,Dau,S,,19,Dressmaker,Neither,Stithians
Cornwall,,
,,,William Andrew,Son,,14,,Scholar,,Stithians
Cornwall,,
,,,Gertrude Andrew,Dau,,,11,Scholar,,Stithians
Cornwall,,
,,,James Andrew,Son,,8,,Scholar,,Stithians
Cornwall,,
Penhalvean,1,John Medlin,Head,M,35,,Tin
Miner,Employed,Stithians Cornwall,,
,,,Ethel Medlin,Dau,,,5,Scholar,,Redruth
Cornwall,,
,,,Beatrice A Medlin,Dau,,,3,,,Stithians
Cornwall,,
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Penhalvean Cottage 1901
39
Andrew James Penhalvean 1 Penhalvean Cottages
Andrew Mary Penhalvean 1 Penhalvean Cottages
Bottrell Mary Penhalvean
Downing Louisa 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Downing Stanley J 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Downing Louisa 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Downing Stanley J 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Downing Stanley 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Dunstan Barbara Penhalvean Farm East Fransbrook
Dunstan Richard L Penhalvean Farm East Fransbrook
Dunstan William H Penhalvean Farm East Fransbrook
Eddy Albert E Penhalvean
Eddy Mary E Penhalvean
Harris Mary T Penhalvean
Hicks Margaret A Penhalvean
Johns Lucy M Penhalvean
Johns Mary Penhalvean
Johns Nicholas H Penhalvean
Lawrence John C Penhalvean Farm West Same as
Lawrence Muriel Penhalvean Farm West Same as
Lenton William 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Lenton Edward 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Lenton Gwendolyn 3 Penhalvean Bos Elvan
Manhire Mildred Penhalvean
Manhire William J Penhalvean
Nicholas Alfred P Penhalvean Cottage The Cottage
Nicholas E Jessie Penhalvean Cottage The Cottage
Phillips Charles H Penhalvean Mill Cottage
Phillips Dorothy Penhalvean Mill Cottage
Phillips Dorothy W Penhalvean Mill Cottage
Tregenza Elizabeth R Penhalvean 2 Penhalvean Cottages
Tregenza Norman Penhalvean 2 Penhalvean Cottages
Yoe John T Penhalvean
Alice Ann married Laughlin McClean in 1906 and little Alice gained a
step dad. Our last letter from Alice came at Christmas in January 1989
when she was aged 97. We often talk about her and never forget that
we are looking after Grandma Medlyn's Cottage. A place that in the
past has seen much joy but also much sadness.
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