Cotton may be described chemically as (1, 4--D

anhydroglucopyranose)

Natural cellulose fibres carry a small negative change
(plateau = -11mv) due to presence of some carboxylic acid
groups from oxidation at the primary hydroxylic sites

At a pH higher than 8, some of the hydroxyl groups in the
hydroxymethyl side chains may also be ionized increasing
the negative charge significantly .

The negative charges on the surface of cellulose repel
anionic dyes and hence the efficiency of dye fixation on
cellulosic fiber is generally low.


Cotton textiles are dyed mostly with reactive dyes because
they produce a wide gamut of bright colours with excellent
colourfastness to washing due to the covalent bonding
between the fibre polymers and the dye molecules under
alkaline pH conditions .

The inorganic salt, such as sodium chloride or sodium
sulphate, for dye transfer to and penetration into the fibre,
and inorganic alkali, such as sodium bicarbonate, sodium
carbonate or sodium hydroxide, for dye-fibre reaction, are
required in substantial quantities to accomplish the dyeing
process.
These salts and alkalis when drained to effluent generate heavy
amounts of total dissolved solids leading to environmental pollution.

Substantial remedies are being considered within the textile processing
sector to reduce the effluent pollution and to fulfill the environmental
regulations.

Higher electrolyte concentration in the effluents causes worst effects
such as-

Impairing the delicate biochemistry of aquatic organism.

Destructive attacks on concrete pipes if sodium sulphate is used as
electrolyte due to the formation of alumino-sulphato complexes
which swell and crack concretes with considerable alumina content.

Evolution of hydrogen sulphide gas under anaerobic conditions when
sodium sulphate is used as the electrolyte.

Dissolution of such sulphides and subsequent bacterial oxidation to
the harmful sulphuric acid.
To counter this problem number of studies on cotton
dyeing has been carried out to improve the dye uptake
and fastness properties. Most research focus is on
introducing cationic sites into the cotton fabric for
interaction . Molecular modification of fibre to have
greater affinity and attraction towards anionic dyes.

Cationisation of cotton fibre before dyeing process has
been proved to be capable for abolishing the
requirement of inorganic salt, and also alkali.

Nevertheless, cationisation is an extra process and has
yet to be taken on to industrial level. Organic chemicals
have been shown to be meaningful substituent to
inorganic salts in exhaust dyeings

.
Effects of cationizing
pretreatment
in the surface of cotton.
The commonly used cationic agents are either tertiary amines or
quaternary ammonium compounds .

Other cationic agents 3-chloro-2-
hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, Trimethylol melamine
(TMM), Polyepichlorohydrin Dimethylamine N-metylolacrylamide
are commonly used in modification of cotton fibres.

Dytec SFD: Polyamine quat compound for salt & alkali free
dyeing of cotton

Alquat CF: Polyetheramine for pigment dyeing by exhaust

Alquat-5851: Poly amine

Alquat APD: Polyamine
Step-1 Cationisation:

Procedure for pre-treatment of cotton with Dytec SFD bath:
Load the machine with water
Add Altranol-84 and run for 5 mins.
Add Dytec SFD-New and run for 5 mins.
Add Sodium Hydroxide solution slowly over a 5 mins period and run the machine for 5 mins
Load the fabric (MLR of 1:10)
Start pre-treatment at R. T. and raise the temperature to 70C/1C per min
Hold at Temperature 70 C for 30 mins.
Drain the bath
Note: Do not rinse or neutralize the fabric

Step-2: Dyeing:

To ensure uniform dyeing the above treated substrate needs to be cooled to room temperature. We
recommend to take half the quantity of water (MLR-1:10) & run the fabric for 5-10 mins, add balance
half quantity of water & run for 5 mins, then add dyestuff to the above cooling bath & start dyeing
without salt & alkali. Kindly note that the dwell time during dyeing should be as per standard dyeing.
(Note: No salt & alkali required)
For eg for VS brand RT-45C & at 45C hold for 30-45 mins, raise from 45-60C & at 60C hold for 60-
90 mins, drain, hot wash, soaping as usual.
Cationisation with Dytec SFD totally eliminates the salt and reduces the alkali
considerably that leads to-

Lower COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand), BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand), TDS
(Total Dissolved Solvents) and no AOX (Absorbable Organic Halogens) in the
effluent.

Reduced number of wash offs and elimination of neutralizing. Lower water
requirements

Reduced effluent volume. Reduced effluent toxicity, no salt in effluent. Little or no
cleaning of equipment for faster turnaround

Increased dye utilization. 40-50% reduction of dyeing time for increased productivity

Reduced cost of dyeing and cost of effluent treatment. Nearly 100% dye exhaustion,
so fewer rinses needed. Reduction of colorant in the effluent.

Possibility to create one bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blends.

Fewer fixing agents and additives

Brighter colors

Shade-1 : Standard Dyeing
Shade-2 : Dytec SFD + NaOH (5+5) % o.w.f
Shade-3 : Dytec SFD + NaOH (7+7.5) % o.w.f
Shade-4 : Dytec SFD + NaOH (10+7.5) % o.w.f

Pigment dyeing is not really " dyeing in it's truest form.
Pigments are insoluble in water. They are milled into a paste for
garment dyeing purposes.the process is complete when a binder
is added to "lock" the pigment into place.

PURPOSES
Pigments are generally used for light to medium dyeing for fully
fashioned garments and for indoor cloth such as wall covering,
furniture, table cloth
and bed sheets

Pigments are also used to achieve dark shades for outdoor
fabrics like tents, stores, awnings

The process is attractive when dyeing cotton/synthetics fabrics
in a single phase.
Pigments are non ionic in nature when dispersed in water, so it
will not have affinity towards anionic cellulose fibre in dye bath.
Because of this, until mid-1980s, use of pigments to color
textiles had been generally limited to pad applications because
of the inability of pigments to exhaust of fibers.

Invention of cationising agents brought the revolutionary
changes in the field of pigment exhaust dyeing

The presence of cationic charges on or in the fibre causes
anionic materials such as pigments to be strongly attracted to
the fiber & to be held much more tightly than without the
cationic charges.
Garment dyeing gives unique fashionable apparel. Often
manufacturers, trying to separate their products from the
crowded market place, have elected to buy only white
fabric & have it dyed after it has been assembled into
garments.

Garment dyeing's enables them to avoid locking
themselves into commitments on large orders of dyed rolls
of fabric, reduces the risk of building & invention in color
fashion. Manufacturers can even stop producing a color
that doesn't sell as well as expected & respond faster to
changing fashion trends.

Very short dye cycle time.
Low energy/low machine time than other dye classes.
Good light fastness except fluorescent colours.
Novelty effects can be achieved by altering the chemicals dosage
& change in processes.
Conventional equipment's can be used.
Greater fibre selection & flexiblity
Uncomplicated & simple to implement.





PROBLEM No. 1 BLOTCHY UNLEVEL GARMENTS
Possible Cause:

Garment may contain softeners, resin finishes or optical brightener. Pre-scouring
with 1-2 g/l of Modscour-LF / Altranol-CD, found to be helpful.
Too short a liquor ratio. 15-20 :1 is recommended
Bath temperature at beginning of dyeing or pre-treat cycle too high. Not higher
than 40-50C recommended. Acetic acid added too early in pigment stage.
Live steam in direct contact with garments. Baffle steam inlets.
Temperature raised too fast. 1-2C per minute gives best results.
Pretreated goods allowed to dry out before pigment stage.
Chemicals or pigments added while machine not running.
Water of pH 7.5 or above.
Chemicals or pigments not pre- diluted.
Garments not thoroughly wet out before addition of pre-treat.
Extraction rotation speed, after pre-treat, too high. Insufficient agitation.
PROBLEM No. 2 POOR COLOUR YIELD

Possible Cause:

Garments may contain softeners, resin finishes or optical brightener.
Prescouring with 1.2 g/l of MODSCOUR-LF / ALTRANOL-CD, found to be
helpful.
Too high liquor ratio. 15 20:1 recommended.
Insufficient agitation
Excessive rinsing between cycles.
Excessive time in any cycle
Pretreated garments allowed to dry out before pigment stage
Excessive amount of pretreat used, or pretreat omitted, or goods not
pretreated for recommended time and temperature.

PROBLEM No. 3 FOREIGN COLOUR SPOTS
Possible Cause:

Machine not cleaned after previous dyeing.
Excess pretreat not rinsed off sufficiently before pigment stage.
Acetic acid not sufficiently diluted or added too quickly, at pigment stage.
Pigment not sufficiently diluted or stirred before adding to dyebath.
Incompatibility with antifoam used
Aftertreat bath too acidic

PROBLEM No. 4 POOR FASTNESS
Possible Cause:

Poor light fastness of fluorescents is to be expected. However, light fastness of
conventional pigments is excellent.

Poor wash and crock fastness is generally due to inadequate aftertreating; i.e. not
enough aftertreat used, not aftertreated for recommended time or temperature. pH of
aftertreat bath above 7.5 or goods not very absorbent and are surface dyed.

Pigment Dyeing By Exhaust :
Step 1:

Bath preparation: Alquat-CF, 2-3% owf + 1% owf Glacial acetic
acid, pH 4.5 ~ 5.
Treat the fabric at room temperature, raise temperature
gradually to 60-70C and maintain for 20-25 mins.
Drain the bath
Step 2:

Pigmentation:
Take the pigment 4~10% owf and dissolve it.
Add pre-dissolved pigment in the dye-bath and start dyeing at
room temperature
Gradually raise the temperature to 70C & maintain at 70C for
20 mins.
Drain the bath
Cold water rinse
Refill or add pigment binder 3 times on weight of pigment and
treat for 15 mins at 40C, drain and dry.
Soaping.
L.N.CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES
OFFICE ADDRESS :-
403, Antariksh, Makwana Road,
Marol Naka, Andheri (E),
Mumbai 400 059

Tel.- 91-22-4221 6789 (30 Lines)
91-22-6692 4112
Fax -91-22-2836 6434
FACTORY ADDRESS :
D- 14 /10, T.T.C. M.I.D.C Industrial area,
Turbhe , P. O. K. U. Bazar,
Navi Mumbai 400 705

Tel.-91- 22-4141 9899 (100 Lines)
Fax -91-22-4141 9888
Email ID: ketan@lnchem.in
nayana.lnchem@gmail.com