HBK Tp.

HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

THIT K SN PHM

M PHM

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Gii thiu

Cream

Powder

Stick

Lotion
Mousse
Patch
Paste

Suspension

Solution

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Gii thiu

Tr li cu hi:

1. C bao nhiu dng sn phm ?

2. Cc dng sn phm c c im g?
3. Sn phm no s dng dng no?

Ti sao:
-Kem nh rng : dng paste
-Kem dng da : dng kem
-Son mi, x phng : dng thi

Thay i ?

-Phn trang im : dng phn

COSMETIC VEHICLE - DELIVERY SYSTEM
Gi mang sn phm H thng dn truyn
3

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi gi mang sn phm Cosmetic vehicles
1. Phn loi theo v ngoi ca sn phm
-

Dng lng (lotion, nc hoa, sa tm, du gi)

Dng bn rn (kem, mousse,..)

Dng rn (son mi, x bng tm, phn trang im)

2. Phn loi theo i tng p dng

- Sn phm cho da (kem dng da, sa tm, phn)
- Sn phm cho tc (du gi, du x)
- Sn phm rng, ming (kem nh rng, nc xc ming)
- Sn phm cho mng (sn mng tay..)
- Sn phm cho mi (Son mi..)
4

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi gi mang sn phm Cosmetic vehicles
3. Phn loi theo tnh cht l ho
-Tnh phn cc : h a nc (phn cc polar), h a du (khng phn cc apolar)
- Trng thi ca h : kh, lng, rn, bn rn
- Kch thc ca pha phn tn trong pha lin tc:
- Dung dch tht s : kch c ht < 1nm
- Phn tn colloid : 1nm - 500nm
- Phn tn th : > 500nm
- Tnh tan
- Tnh cht v nht, rheology (tnh chy)

- Thnh phn chnh ca h :

- H khng nc, h du
- H nc
- H a nc
5

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi gi mang sn phm Cosmetic vehicles

Phn loi theo c tnh ho-l (Bng phn loi Junginger)

1. Dng lng

2. Dng bn rn

H mt pha

H hai pha

H Gel

H Cream

Dung dch nc

Nh O/W

Hydrocarbon gel

O/W cream

Dung dch cn - nc

Nh W/O

Oleogel

W/O cream

Dung dch du

H huyn ph

Hydrogel

Liposome

H micell

H aerosol

H paste, huyn ph m c

Nh micro
3. Dng rn

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi gi mang sn phm Cosmetic vehicles

c im

Aerosol

H phn tn ca lng hay rn trong kh

Colloid

H phn tn vi phn b kch thc ht trong khong t 1 500nm

1. Lyophilic : pha phn tn c i lc vi pha lin tc (gelatin)

2. Lyophobic : pha phn tn khng c i lc vi pha lin tc (ht vng

trong nc)
3. Cc cht hot ng b mt t li thnh cc micell

H nh

L mt pha lng phn tn trong mi trng lin tc l mt pha lng

khc (O/W, W/O)

H bt

Phn tn ca kh trong lng

7

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi gi mang sn phm Cosmetic vehicles

Gel

c im

H bn rn hoc rn cha t nht hai thnh phn (khung

khng gian)

Dung dch

H mt pha tan ln hon ton

Huyn ph

H phn tn th ca nhng ht rn khng tan vo mt mi

trng lin tc

Rn

Tn ti trng thi rn, c hnh dng xc nh

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

nh ngha cc dng sn phm

Dng dung dch :

-Ngha hp : ch cc dung dch tht s (cc loi du massage)

- Ngha rng : ch cc h dng colloid ( cc h lng trong sut, trong m, h micell,
liposome) (nc xc ming, sa tm, du gi..)

u im chnh:
-Tnh n nh vt l cao
-D dng phi ch (s dng phng php khuy trn n gin)
-Trong sut, to v ngoi sch s
- Thun tin khi s dng ra v lm sch b ngoi ca i tng

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Gel

Gel : h mt pha, to thnh do thnh phn to gel (thickener)

- Gel nc : Hydrogel hydrophilic

80% nc (hoc h a nc) + Cht to gel (carbopol)
- Gel du : oleo gel- lipophilic
Di + cht to gel (silica, silicon)

10

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Stick

Gm ba dng chnh

1. Hn hp ca sp (beewax, carnauba..) v du (mineral oil), cng vi cc

cht khc th rn son mi
2. Hydrophilic stick : Dung dch nc (hoc ethanol), ng rn nh sodium
stearate Sn phm chng ra m hi
3. H cc silicon c nhit si cao v c gel ho nh cc ru bo
Gn y xut hin cc loi stick trong sut nh cht gel ho l dibenzylidene
sorbitol trong cc polyol

11

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Dng nh

Nh : c rng ri s dng trong rt nhiu sn phm

- Thun tin v Cm gic d chu khi s dng (so vi cc h du khng nc

khc).
- Hp dn ngi tiu dng
Cu to:
Tc ng
c hc

Pha du
Lipophilic
(hydrophobic)

Pha nc
Hydrophilic
(Lipophobic)

Emulsion
O/W W/O

12

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Phn loi nh
1. Theo pha phn tn v pha lin tc
-

Nh O/W : Nh du trong nc : pha phn tn l du trong pha lin tc l nc

Nh W/O : Nh nc trong du : pha phn tn l nc trong pha lin tc l du

2. Theo s lng pha phn tn

-

Nh n : O/W, W/O

Nh phc : O/W/O, W/O/W

Nh n

3. Theo mu nh
Tu thuc vo kch thc ht pha phn tn
0.05m

: trong sut

0.05 0.1 m

: xm, trong m

0.1 - 1 m

: trng xanh

1.0 - 50 m

: trng c

>50 m

: c th nhn thy r ht pha phn tn

Nh phc

13

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Pha phn tn (ph
thuc vo cng
khuy trn)
Pha nc

Pha lin tc

Tc ng
c hc

Khuy trn
Nh W/O; O/W
Pha du

Xc nh loi nh to thnh:
- Dng dng in
- Thuc nhum
- Pha phn tn (O/W phn tn vo nc d..)

14

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Tng tc ca pha phn tn
Hin tng kt
t
Qu trnh
thun nghch Phc hi thng
qua khuy trn

Flocculation

Hin tng
ni kem
Creaming

Nh l tng
- Kch thc
ht dng nht,
phn tn u

Qu trnh
khng
thun
nghch
tch pha
ph nh

Tch pha
Phase
separation

Hin tng ng t Coalesence

15

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Tng tc ca pha phn tn

Gim nng lng

t do trn b mt
S = T. A

1 ml du git 5 m
A : 12000cm2

Gi nh bn:
-Ngn cn s kt t
ca cc ht pha phn
tn
- Ngn cn s ng t

Khuynh hng ng t
Phng trnh Stoke

2 gr 2 ( d1 d 2 )
v
9

16

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

iu kin lm bn nh

1. Lm tng nht ca pha lin tc gim tc di chuyn ca cc ht pha

phn tn gim kh nng va chm kh nng kt t.
2. To kch thc ht pha phan tn nh v ng u gim kh nng kt t gia
hai ht khi va chm.
3. Tng cng bn c hc ca mng ngoi cc ht gim kh nng ng t
khi hai ht kt t
4. Gim sc cng b mt gim th nhit ng hc gim kh nng ng t
Trong thc t : la chn 1, 3, 4
1 : s dng cht cht thickeners (gim pha lin tc)
3, 4 : cn b sung thm cht nh ho cht hot ng b mt
Ti b mt

Trong lng
dung dch

Lp cht
hot ng
b mt
17

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Hin tng lm bn nh

Ht du trong nc
(O/W)

Lp in tch kp

Ht pha phn tn

Lp film bn
Ht nc trong du
(W/O)

Khng tch in
18

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

C
: in th Nerst
: in th Zeta
A C
+
+

Lp in tch kp

A : b mt phn chia pha

B : khi dung dch
19

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

n+
n+
n+
n+
n+

Nc

Dau

A Khi khng c cht HDBM

B Khi c mt cht HDBM

Dau

Nc

Dau

Nc

C Khi c mt cht HDBM v cht in ly

20

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Nh W/O

+
+

+
+
+

+
+

+
Cht nh ho anionic

Nh W/O

+ +

Cht nh ho cationic

Cht nh ho nonionic

+ +
+++
21

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Ca2+, Mg2+
Hin tng o nh
khi thm cc ion
mang nhiu in tch

Du

Nc

22

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

La chn cht nh ho
Gi tr HLB ( Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance)
Acid beo alcol polyhydric
HLB = 20 (1 S/A)
Quan h gia HLB v tan trong nc:
S : ch so xa phong hoa cua ester.
tan
HLB
A : ch so acid.
Khng tan
1-4
Oxid ethylen
Phn tn km
3-6
HLB=E/5
Phn tn trung bnh sau
E : %m oxyethylen trong hp chat
khi khuy trn
6-8
To thnh dung dch c
8 -10
Dau thong va ester (resin ester), ester sap
Dung dch trong m
10 13
ong(beeswax ester), ester lanolin.
HLB = (E+P)/5
Tan hon ton,
E: %m oxyethylen cha
dung dch trong sut
>13
P: %m ancol polyhydric
HLB cua he :
HLB = x.A +(1- x).B

23

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Cch la chn cht nh ho theo HLB

A Cht ty ra
HLB

ng dng

4-6

Cht nh ho W/O

7 -9

Cht lm t

8-18

Cht nh ho O/W

C Cht lm t

13 15 Cht ty ra
15 -18

B Cht lm tan

D Cht nh ho W/O

Cht lm tan
E Cht nh ho O/W

10

15

20
24

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Cht nh ho anionic s dng rng ri:

- Cht nh ho mt in tch : ch yu to nh O/W : Stearate, Oleate, Palmitate.. Ca

Na, K
- Cht nh ho vi ion a in tch : to nh W/O : Mui x phng ca Ca, Mg, Al
Thng c tng cng bng mt cht nh ho ph tr nh : cetyl alcol, glyceryl
monostearte
Cht nh ho cationic t dng:
-To nh O/W : Stearyl dimethyl benzakonium chloride
Cht nh ho lng tnh rt t dng do c tnh cht ng in

Cht nh ho nonionic s dng rt rng ri:

- To nh O/W hc W/O

25

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

H cht to nh

Natri cetyl sulfate

Natri cetyl sulfate

Natri oleate

+ Cholesterol

Oley alcohol

Cetyl alcohol

Nh bn

Nh km bn

Nh tng i bn

26

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Cng thc tng qut ca nh
Cng thc nh O/W
Thnh phn chnh:

1. Lipid

- Pha du

2. Cht nh ho ( HLB 9-10) : 5%

- Pha nc

3. Cht ng nh ho

: 2%

- Cht nh ho

4. Cht bo qun

: 0.1%

5. Nc v cht lm c

: v 100%

Cc thnh phn ph

:10 40%

Cng thc nh W/O

- Cht gi m (Emollient : silicon oil)

1. Lipid

: 20%

- Humectant : Glycerol

2. Cht lm c a du

: 1%

- Cht lm c : cellulose ester

3. Cht nh ho (HLB 3-8) : 7 10%

- Cht bo qun, cht khng oxy ho

4. Cht bo qun

: 0.1%

- Hng, mu

5. MgSO4

: 0.5%

6. Nc

: v 100%

- Hot cht

27

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Nh O/W

- Cm gic nh nhng, khng gy nht hay cm gic nhn khi s dng

- Lan ta trn da tt v gy hiu qu thm nhp tt cho cc hot cht tan
trong nc
- To cm gic mt do nc bay hi
Nh W/O
- c im cu to gn vi lp du t nhin ca c th
- Bo v i tng tt hn do ng gp vo lp mng bo v, chng mt nc tt
hn so vi nh o/w
- Tng cng kh nng thm nhp ca cc hot cht tan trong du
- Duy tr trng thi lng nhit rt thp
28

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

La chn dng sn phm thch hp

1. V tr p dng sn phm nh w/o khng ph hp khi s dng cho tc, hay khng th
dng sn phm w/o cho kem da dng hng ngy
2. Cm quan bn ngoi : nh du gi dng foam hoc dng kem
3. trong, c
4. Trng thi rn, bn rn, lng

5. Dng nh hay dung dch

6. Hot cht cho vo
7. Tnh n nh trong sn xut v tn tr
8. Cch thc ng gi
9. Sn phm cnh tranh

29

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Cng ngh sn xut sn phm m phm

30

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

31

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

32

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Nhim v ca nh thit k :
KHCH HNG

i vi mt sn phm
1. cng thc,

Xy dng

2. cch thc phi trn,

3. Vn v sinh v bo qun

P
Nhu cu khch hng
NG

4. cch thc ng gi

Gi tr s dng sn phm

Gi tr thng mi ca sn phm

33

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm

Xc nh nhu cu
ngi s dng

To sn phm th
nghim

Xc nh cc yu t

Th nghim sn phm

k thut
Sn xut
Xc nhcng thc
nn sn phm

La chn thnh phn

nguyn liu
34

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm
1. Xc nh nhu cu ngi s dng

Thng hiu
Gi c

Khi mua hng

Nhu cu ngi

Khi s dng

tiu dng

V b ngoi (bao b, thm m, hng

thm)
Tnh thun tin, d s dng
an ton
Tnh nng ca sn phm
Hng thm, tnh tng thch

Tnh trng, cm gic sau khi s dng

Sau khi s dng

Thi gian tc dng di (hiu qu )

An ton
Tnh n nh ca sn phm
35

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm
2. Xc nh cc yu t k thut
- Dng sn phm, cu trc sn phm (lng, rn, nh, kem,
nht cao, thp, mu )
- Tnh nng chuyn bit cn c (chng nng, gi m, ty
ra, bo v.)
Sn phm

- Hng thm (loi hng, bn, mnh.)

- Bao b (Tnh nng bo v, phng php ng gi, cch
thc s dng)
- Gi c

36

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm
3. Xc nh cng thc nn sn phm

Thnh phn khng hot ng to khung sn phm

(To nh, nht, to gel, mu, hng.)
Cu t nn
Thnh phn hot ng
(Cht gi m, cht dit khun, )

37

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm
4. La chn thnh phn nguyn liu

Du, m, sp

Oil, fat, wax

Cht hot ng b mt

Surfactant

Cht to nht

Thickener, viscosity enhancer

Cht dit khun

Antibacterial, preservative

Cht chng oxy ho

Antioxidant

Cht gi m

Humectant,

Cht che ph

Miscellaneous substance

Cht mu

Colorant

Cht to hng

Perfume

Nc

Water

Cht tr liu

Active substance

5. To sn phm th nghim (Xy dng phng php)

38

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

S thit k sn phm
6. Kim tra cc tnh cht sn phm

c tnh (Toxicity test)

- an ton (Safety test)

Th nghim lm sng (Clinical test)

Th nghim gin tip (indirect test)

- n nh (Stability test)

Th nghim lu tr (Storage test)

Th nghim kh hu (Climatic test)

- Chng vi snh vt (Bacteriological test)

- Tnh nng (Performance - Claims test)

Hiu chnh cng thc

Trong phng th nghim (Lab test)

Salon (Salon test/expert test)
Khch hng la chn (Home user test)
Khch hng thng thng (Customer test)
Sn xut

QC test
39

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

THIT K H THNG VN CHUYN HOT CHT VO DA

40

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Cu to cc lp ca lp Epidermis

Tnh cht: M hnh gch (t bo

keratin ho) va (lp lipid)
T l bo, t l nc : 10 -15% trn
lp stratum corneum.

41

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

V D VI V TR CN N CA CC HOT CHT TRONG SPMP/DA

1- B mt stratum corneum
+ Sn phm chng nng
+ Sn phm kh mi
2. Trong l chn lng hc tuyn b nhn
+ Sn phm mc tc

+ Sn phm tr mn
3. Cc lp trong ca da hoc h tun hon
+ Sn phm m phm c dc tnh hoc nui dng da
42

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

V TR CN N CA HOT CHT (tt)

V d: sn phm lm trng da
- Hp thu tia UV trnh da thnh sm mu
Cn thit k hot cht trong sn phm ti v t li b mt stratum corneum.
- Lm gim hay c cht s hnh thnh melanin
Thit k hot cht trong sn phm ti lp epidermis

43

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

CC CON DNG DN HOT CHT VO DA

1. Ro cn hot cht: lp stratum corneum v 2 ng vn chuyn

44

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

45

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

CC CON NG DN VO DA
2.1. Qua cc t bo keratin

2 ng vn chuyn
-Xuyn qua t bo: 1-5%
- Qua lp lipid gian bo (cho c hai cht a nc v a du)

46

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

2.2. Qua cc l tuyn (m hi v b nhn)

-Tuyn tit m hi v b nhn nm trong lp dermis

+ chim 0,1 % din tch da
+ d b cun tri do s thot m hi hay b nhn
+ qu trnh thm tng dn i vi
- Hp cht ion a nc
- Hp cht c cc
- Peptid cao phn t

47

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA

48

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA
Tng cng ho hc

Do lp stratum corneum ngn chn qu trnh thm

S dng ho cht
+ nhm cht hot ng nh dung mi
+ nhm acid v ru bo
+ nhm cht hot ng b mt yu

49

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA
Tng cng vt l

-Dng mt s k thut
- vi tim
- sonophoresis
- ionophoresis

50

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA

51

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA
+ nh hng ca qu trnh hydrate ho
- Nc chim 10 -20% tng khi lng stratum corneum
- Ngm nc, da c th tng ln 4-5 ln kch thc u

gim tnh cn ca lp stratum corneum

-Tnh thm nc gy hn ch :
+ tng tnh rt da
+ tng nhim trng

52

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA
+ Enzyme

Tng cng hoc km hm enzyme chnh ca qu trnh tng hp lipid e[idermis

Thay i t l mol ca lipid stratum corneum

53

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

TNG CNG QU TRNH THM VO DA
+ Dng cht mang dng nang
- Nang cn c kch thc vi m
(Hot cht chnh bn trong phn t bo bao quanh) gm c:
-Liposomes
- Niosomes

- Tu n hi

54

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

55

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

THIT K H THNG VN CHUYN CHO MT SN PHM CHM SC DA

Tm hiu:
1- Tnh cht l ho ca hp cht (Hu c/ v c?, lng rn ? Kh nng ho tan?
Tnh acid, bazo, trung tnh? Tnh u du?)
2- H thng vn chuyn thch hp
3- Tng tc gia hp cht v h thng vn chuyn
4- Nhng yu t nh hng n h thng vn chuyn
+ Nhng ohn t c kch thc > 500 kh thm qua da
+ Kch thc phn t x l

+ iu kin ca da (sc kha, tui, b dy, nhit , lng m)

56

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Delivery system

Sn phm p ng

Bo v c hot tnh

Hu hiu ho c hot tnh

Dng bin php tng

cng qu trnh thm vo
da
57

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Bi v d:
- Vn chuyn Rectinol vo da
h hay to

Retinol bin tnh

Gy tc hi x ln da
Retinol
Encapsule ho bng lp v
phospho lipid
Retinol
liposome
(bo v Retinol, tng
tnh thm)

Tc dng tt ln da

Retinol nguyn dng

58

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

V d 2:

X l hp cht lm trng da trc khi phi ch sn phm m phm

Lm trng da

Lm gim hoc c ch s

c ch tyrosinase

hnh thnh melanin

(trong lp epidermis)

HOT CHT

(1) Vt qua lp stratum corneum

c ch Tyrosinase

(2) n lp epidermis
(3) Thm qua thnh t bo ca
melanocyte (melanosome)

59

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

a nc
Kojic acid
Glabridin

D b bin tnh bi h hay /O/

K thut lm tng tnh thm

Kojic acid
Glabridin
c n nh

c ch tyrosinase trong lp epidermis

60

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

H THNG VN CHUYN HAT CHT VO TC
1. CU TO TC

2. CC NG VN CHUYN VO TC
+ ng chnh : l chn tc (hair shalf)

61

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 3

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

Vn chuyn cc cht dinh dng vo tc

Cht dinh dng

Nh tc

Tu tc

Cht dinh dng

Cht dinh dng

Ngn
Cht dinh dng

62

CHNG 3

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

THIT K SN PHM M PHM

- ng qua lp cuticle - cortex

Hydrolyzed protein (amino acid) cuticle (PPP&AA) cortex (HP&AA)

Ph ch: vn chuyn hot cht vo da u cng cng nguyn tc vn chuyn
vo da

63