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TEXTILE

INTERNSHIP
AARVEE DENIMS AND EXPORTS LTD.

SUBMITTED BY: POOJA NAG, SAMRA NASIR, SHREYA


SOLANKI
DEPARTMENT : DFT-V
22-08-2014

SPINNING

Blow room

INPUT

= Raw cotton Bales


OUTPUT = Laps
The basic purpose ofBlow room
is to supply
Clean fiber tufts
Homogeneously blended tufts

The

above is achieved by the


following processes in the blow room
Pre-opening
Pre cleaning
Mixing or blending
Fine opening
De- Dusting

TRUTZCHLERs BLENDOMAT
(PRE OPENING)

An automatic bale opener opens the bale gently without


fiber damage.
It helps to maintain the homogeneity of the long term
blending.
The opening roller speed should be around 1500 to 1800
rpm.
The depth of penetration of the opening should be as
minimum as possible for better quality. The production
rate is up to 1500 kg/hr (104 bales of 160 kg in which
80-90% cotton is used)
Working width: 1720 mm
machine length = 20 m
The machine sucks the cotton and transfers it to the
next machine Trutzschlers SP-MF.

Trutzschlers SP-MF
SP-MF

is situated directly after Blendomat,


integrated machine for separation of heavy
particles and metal particles. The Multi Function
Separator SP-MF has a fan for sucking off the
dust.
It facilitates:
o Heavy particle separation at lower left side of the
machine.
o Fire Protection- spark sensor to detect burning
material at top of middle duct.
o Metal Separation- at lower right side of machine.
o Waste Re-feeding- at y-duct above input duct.

Trutzsschlers CL-P
For

further cleaning

MXU Multimixer (MIXING/ BLENDING)


It

consists of 10 vertical chambers.


Its main function is to mix different varieties of
cotton in order to obtain homogenous mixing.
Each vertical chamber consists of pair of feed
rollers and opening rollers.
Light sensor is used to maintain the level of
cotton in each chamber
Cotton from each chamber is laid down over
the conveyor belt.

TRUTZSCHLER CL-C4
(CLEANING)
The

main function is opening and


cleaning of the cotton.
There are 4 different rollers with
different shape and size of the teeth.
There is a gentle fiber treatment due to
multi-roll technology.
The speed increases from roll to roll as
the wires on the roll become finer.
The working width of the machine is
1.600 mm.

1: Feed Roller
2: Roller 1
3: Roller 2
4: Roller 3
5: Roller 4
6: Pre Opening Segment
7: Pre Cleaning Segment

Trutzschlers CF-80
The

blow room dropping or the waste


is collected by the machine
Trutzschlers CF-80.
The minimum recommended
pressure in the waste chamber is
700 Pascal. (max. 1000 Pascal).
The waste material that is collected
is not just thrown, it is used for sale.

CARDING
There

were 8 carding machines.


Purpose:
To open the flocks into individual fibers
Cleaning or elimination of impurities /
dust
Elimination of short fibers
Fiber blending
Fiber orientation or alignment
Sliver formation

TRUTZSCHLER TC-03
INPUT

= Blow room lap

PARAMETERS

OUTPUT
PRESSURE

SPECIFICATIONS

= Card sliver

329 PA

SPEED

270 M/MIN OUTPUT

Count variation

2.40 %

Draft variation

4.0 %

Count

0.095 Ne

Efficiency

52%

Container capacity

7500 m

Starting speed

1143mm/min

Slow speed

5000 mm/min

Flat Speed

280 mm/min

In

carding machine a feed plate and feed roller helps to


feed the lap in the carding machine.
Feed roller passes the cotton to the licker, now licker
passes the cotton to the cylinder.
Cylinder carries the cotton fibers towards the doffer.
These wires of the cylinder comb the cotton to make the
individual fiber.
In the setting line there are redirecting rollers (having
brush roller on upper side), then squeeze rollers.
After this setting line web is drawn through a funnelshaped device that molds it into a round ropelike mass
called card sliver by calendar roller.
Finally we get sliver in the coiler.

Draw frame
Tasks of Draw frame:
Through doubling, the slivers are made
even.
Doubling results in homogenization.
Through draft, fibers get parallelized.
Hooks created in the card are straightened.
Through the suction, intensive dust removal
is achieved.
Auto leveller maintains absolute sliver
fineness.

The draw frame machine is fed with 6 slivers at a


time; the doubling given is by 4 over 3 rollers. The
delivery roller delivers at a speed of 600 m/min.
The machine has an efficiency of 45%
The sliver received from the IDF was initially of 0.095
Ne at the time of feeding which after drafting and
doubling is made to 0.105 Ne.

Spinning
Spinning

is the process by which short fibers


are converted cohesively into continuous
yarn so that they can be woven into cloth.
Most fibers are neither long enough nor
strong enough on their raw state to be used
for weaving.
They must therefore be drawn and twisted
together to make a continuous strong,
uniform and workable strand called yarn.

OPEN-END SPINNING
Schlafhorst

Saurer Auto cord

360
INPUT = Draw Frame Sliver
OUTPUT = Open End Yarn

CLOSED END SPINNING


INPUT

= Draw Frame Sliver


OUTPUT = Roving
Roving section (Speed Frame):
There were 3 machines:
SE-12 with 360 spindles
SE-9 with 240 spindles
SE-12 with 360 spindles

Zinser Saurer ER-68

Ring Frame
INPUT =
OUTPUT

Roving
= Closed End Yarn

There

are 3 machines of 1200 spindles


In Ring Spinning, the spinning frames
receive Roving via a transit system from
the roving machine.
Yarn is formed from cotton fibers that are
twisted together after being drafted by
passing between three steel rolls and
three rubber rolls.
The yarn then is wrapped on a bobbin as
it spins on a spindle by use of a traveler.

The

relationship between roll speeds, traveler


speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount
of twist in the yarn.
The spinning frames automatically doff bobbins
full of yarn and send them to package winding.
The bobbins were delivered through a conveyor
belt.
The running characteristics of a spindle,
especially imbalance and eccentricity relative to
the ring frame, also effect yarn quality and the
number of the breakage.

PARAMETERS

SPECIFICATIONS

Count

12 S

Hank Feed

0.54

Draft

23.13

T.P.M.

750

Spindle Speed

9000R.P.M.

Ring Diameter

48 Mm

Ring Speed

8423 R.P.M.

Advantages of ring spinning


frame
It

is universally applicable, i.e. any


material can be spun to any required
count.
It delivers a material with optimum
characteristics, especially with regard
to structure and strength.
It is simple and easy to master.
The know-how is well established and
accessible for everyone.

PARAMETERS
Count
Rotor speed
Rotor diameter
Opening roller speed
Sliver feed hank
Draft
Delivery speed
Starters
Package length

SPECIFICATIONS
90s e
92 m/min (feed)
533.7
9000 R.P.M.
1.69
85
142.4m /min
Yellow/ sky blue
55.3 km

Winding
INPUT

bobbins
OUTPUT

= Closed End Yarn on


= Yarn on cones

There

were 2 machines. It was a fully


automatic machine, with a speed of
1000m/min.
The main purpose of the machine is
to wind the yarn from bobbin to
cones.
PARAMATERS
Machine No.

SPECIFICATIONS
2

Spindle No.

1 To 20

Count

12 Flame

Starter

Mix

Marking

Stamp

YARN TESTING
For

eliminating the manufacturing


defects during the production phase,
AARVEE has its own modern testing
laboratory that is installed with many
machines.

(Wrap Reel - Manual)


.

For Length measurement


The Paramounts wrap reel was used to
make leas of yarn.
it has a Bobbin holding stand that can
accommodate bobbins diameter up to
100mm.
Five leas can be made together.
It was also supplied with inspection &
calibration certificates.
Weight: 36Kg (79.2 lbs).

For

evenness, hairiness, slubs and


neps (USTER TESTER 3)
Defects such as thick places, thin places,
neps, hairiness and yarn appearance
contribute to the overall yarn uniformity
and altogether they define the character of
the end product.
The Uster Tester was employed with a
single processor which gives overall results
called graphical/ statistical Spectrogram.

The

Uster components are:

For CSP (SLATEX


TESTER)
The strength is determined in such a manner

that the test specimen is gripped by two lea


holders vertically arranged one below the other
and continuously tensile stressed until it breaks.
The results were recorded in a computer and
reports generated.

Warp winding
INPUT

= Yarn on Cones
OUTPUT = Warp Beams

Name

of the company:- Jupiter


Speed:-702 m/min(at the time of
working),
No. of ends:-290
Length of roll: 35000 m
The JUPITERs warp winding machines
had yarn tensioning device, pneumatic
tensioning devices and other
accessories.
There were 4 warping machines

All

the ends through the packages passes through the


guides and then through a stand on which sensors
are there, which controls the passes of each end.
In case of any break it alarms.
From this ends passes through the guides and then
there are three rollers namely: Counting roller:-it measures the length of the yarn
that passes over it, with sensors on it.
Pressure roller:- it pressurizes the ends on the
beam roller so that we will get the fine beaming.
Beam roller: - roller over which ends are being
wrapped.

Packing
The

spindles were packed with a Penguin


Classic machine by the LLDPE STRETCH FILM
manufactured by Asmaco Industries Ltd.
The machine consisted of an elevator to
raise the package height and a turn table to
rotate the wheel of the carriage on which the
spindles were mounted.
The width of a single roll approximated to
500mm. the packed material was then
transferred to the storage area.

STORE AREA

TEXTURING
Raw

Materials: Polyester and


Spandex(2%)
Products:
POLYESTER
SPANDEX
FINAL
PRODUCT
500/96 SD X 1
end

70 D

360 STR

335/144 SD X 1
end

40 D

220 STR

500/96 SDX 2
ends

70 D

600 D

500/96 Black X
1end

70 D

360 BSTR

330/96 Black X
1 end

40 D

220 BSTR

Dyeing and sizing


CONDITIONING
DYEING
OXIDATION
WASHING
PRE-DRYING
SIZING
DRYING
ACCUMULATOR
BEAM

PROCESS

PURPOSE

CHEMICAL USED

Pre wetting

to increase the
wettability of the
yarns

2 kl WDR, 1500 kl
Water

Prewash 1

to remove the
excessive chemical

Water

Pre wash 2

to remove the
excessive chemical

Water

INDIGO dyeing(5
For colour
tanks- 1500 l capacity)

Indigo=X, Sodium
hydrosulphite= 120%
of X, caustic soda
=80% of X and water

Wash after dyeing

To remove excess dye

Water

SULPHUR dyeing(1
tank)
85-95 degree

For black colour effect

Sodium sulphite +
soda ash
10 gpl

Oxidation

To maintain the black


colour

50% hydrogen
peroxide+98% pure
acetic acid

washing(3 tanks)

To remove
hydrogen peroxide
from the yarns

Pre drying(135
degree)

To pre dry it before


sizing

Sizing

To increase
weavability

Main dryer(16
cylinders)

To make it suitable
for weavability

NITI, SAPCO 1186


shampoo (2-3 gpl)

Anisole(100 kg)
+30 kg binder + 3
kg CMC

texturing
Texturing

processes are essentially


concerned with introducing bulkiness
into continuous-filament yarns.

Drawing

Cooling

Posi torque unit

Nips (air jet)

Secondary
heaters
Oil application
(auto static oil)

Take up (final
package)

Process flow of texturing of


yarns

Process
Yarn

at controlled tension and speed is passed through


a rotating set of Ceramic or Polyurethane Friction Discs
mounted on spindle bearings in a Friction Unit, which
is a part of Draw Texturising Machine.
The yarn gets frictional "Twist" and "Untwist" on
passing through the Friction Unit and develops "Yarn
Bulk". The is called false twist because the twist does
not remain, but a memory of the twist remains and
gives the yarn torque or stretch as well as the bulk.
The yarn passes through Primary Heater (primary
heater temp. 187 to 192 C) prior to Friction Unit and
then through Secondary Heater to heat set the bulk.

WEAVING
Air

jets are the fastest traditional method of weaving in


modern manufacturing.
They are able to achieve up to 1200 picks per minutes.
more costly than other looms.
The weaving machine used in Aarvee Denims was
Tsudokama ZAX-9100.
there were 19 lines, each of 6 looms and one weaver
per 8 looms
Denims in golden, black and blue were produced in
different weaves in mainly:
2*1 twill weave
3*1 twill weave
4*1 twill weave

Process:

AIR JET LOOM

The weaving starts with the insertion


weft into the warp shed.
The pre winder is controlled by
magnetic micro system.
The micro system decides the number
coils to be released for the insertion
weft.
Depends on the width of the cloth.

of
a
of
of

Machine specification
PARAMETERS

SPECIFICATIONS

Loom rpm

904

Efficiency

80.6%

Cloth shrinkage

5%

Warp shrinkage

14%

Cloth woven

590.5 m

Stop frequency

Total 222 times

Fillings: 188 times

Warp: 31 times

Total warp quantity

4700 ends

Warp thickness

8 ne

Reed width

188 cm

Filling thickness

480 tex

Density

40 picks/inch

finishing
At

aarvee denims denim finishing


mainly includes
Sanforising and singeing
Desizing and mercerising

finishing
Brush Unit
Pressure
Unit/
Having
Or Steam
BrushUnit
Rollers

Process flow of denim finishing

Process of finishing
Cloth

is placed on the pair of rollers in the scray


unit. The rollers moves in opposite direction in
order to remove the tension in fabric.
In the brushing unit there are three brushes
moving in opposite directions to get the small
hairs of fabric straighten and get rid of dust.
In singeing process two gas burner to remove
small protruding fibers and loose hairy fibers
from the surface of the fabric thereby giving it a
smooth, even and clean surface.

In

foam unit foam is made by following the


friction/ or rubbing principle.
The chemicals include Bica Soap (10 kg)
and 1000 liters of water with liquor and air
A uniform layer of foam is formed on
conveyor belt, fabric passes with this
conveyer belt below the cylinder.
This cylinder is perforated with high suction.
approximately 13-14% moisture for the
shrinkage.

Desizing and
Mercerization
The

Desizing and mercerizing are


carried out together after their pre
shrinkage and singeing treatment.
The process requires a large amount
of water (hot and cold).
Aarvee has 2 machines for Desizing
and mercerizing or Desizing and
dyeing.

MERCIRIZING
PNEUMATIC
GUIDERS
BATH

Process flow of desizing

Desizing

takes place after sanforization and


singeing. the desizing bath containing Acetic
acid solution and an emulsifying agent at
40 C.
sensor for detecting the increase in
chemicals.
fabric goes to a closed steamer that has
three chambers (total 50 m) at 100 C
followed by a wash box with water at room
temperature to wash off the extra acid. The
fabric is then given a hot wash (70 C).

fabric

passes over to two mercerization

tanks.
This process is followed by removing waste in
drying cans composed of 12 cylindrical Teflon
coated rollers heated with steam at 170 C.
The process remains the same. Only, the
mercerization is followed by extra cold and
normal washes. In normal wash, each tank
has 6 wash boxes maintained at 3 kg
pressure to remove extra water from the
fabric.

fabric

passes over to two mercerization

tanks.
This process is followed by removing waste in
drying cans composed of 12 cylindrical Teflon
coated rollers heated with steam at 170 C.
The process remains the same. Only, the
mercerization is followed by extra cold and
normal washes. In normal wash, each tank
has 6 wash boxes maintained at 3 kg
pressure to remove extra water from the
fabric.

Inspection & packaging


Inspection
The inspection for defects occurs
after the finishing of fabric.
There are 8 Inspection tables /
platter machines in Aarvee with 5
operators on each machine.
The tables are used interchangeably
for checking and mending/ rework.

The process of inspection


Issue of lots

Inspection at aarvee
Color

match: specific order is placed


with specific lights to get the color
matching done.
The rolls of fabrics are matched in
that light and if color doesnt match
the roll of fabric goes to finishing
department again.
Fabric roll which matches is then
inspected for further defects if
defects found, fabric needs to b

point system: each fabric roll goes


through this process and it is done
manually. If major defect is found
fabric is removed.

Important points at the inspection department:


Sort no.
Category
Flags (a strip that is to be used at the defect
place, silver for the export product and colored
for the domestic product).
Width of the fabric
Weight of the fabric (per unit meter)
Loom from which it came
Total no. of pieces in one roll
Pieces length
Total length of the roll

packing
Domestic

packing is general, while for export material


packing is done with the machine of Penguin Company, of
Coimbatore.
Plastic used for the packing of the export material is
highly stretchable, having stretch up to 150%.
Important points at packing department:
Roll no.
Sort no.
Gradation
No. of pieces in a roll
Total length of the fabric
Width of the fabric
Gross weight

THANK
YOU

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