Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FP Technology
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Skewing
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Bowing or Twisting
A line/design curve across the fabric .
Reason : Faulty take up mechanism on
knitting machine
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Knots in knit fabric:
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Needle line
Cause: due to defective needle, dirty needle
slot, improper lubrication of needle, needle
too tight or loose or bent needle
Remedies: replacing defective needle,
remove the fibers in tricks, remove bent
needle, checking the needle sequence
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Hole
CAUSE REMEDIES
Due To Tight Knot Ensure uniform tension
Needle break due to slub Rate of yarn feed should be strictly
regulated
Due to high tension of yarn Eyelets, yarn guides, should not have
any fibres, fluff & wax etc
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Oil Mark
Cause Remedy
Due to improper lubrication use oil as Fibres accumulated in needle tricks
lubricant
Fibre and fluff accumulated in the Remove all the needles and sinker of
needle trick, which remain soaked machine and clean it.
with oil
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Slub ( Thick and thin place)
Cause Remedy
Uneven tension, uneven course, Mix Prevent count or lot mixing, maintain
count, lot mix in blow room uniform yarn tension
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Ladder ( Fabric Run )
A run or ladder indicates a row
of dropped stitches in the wale.
Reason: Yarn carrier are not set
properly.
Stitch has been formed loosely
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Ladder :Wales collapse in
straight line
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Barre / Shade bar
A barre effect has the appearance of a stripe
with shaded edge .
It is horizontal in weft knit fabric & vertical in
warp knit fabric.
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Reason of barre defect
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Reason of barre
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Variation in oil content
Worn needles ,which generally produce
length direction streaks
Uneven cylinder height
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Recommendation to minimize
barre`
Knit an entire dyeing lot in same knit
machine.
Same spinning lot for entire fabric.
Determine from quality control for same
quality of y.arn for entire lot
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Fly yarn contamination
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Fabric weight out of
tolerance
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Dye Mark
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Stain ( excessive oil or dirt )
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Pin marks : poorly adjusted
Stenter pin
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Spirality
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Problems due to Spirality
In knitted garments the practical problem arise due to
spirallty.
Shifting of seams, Mismatching, Patterning and sewing
difficulties
These problem are often corrected by finishing steps
such as resin treatment,heat & steam ,so the wale line
are perpendicular to course line.
Such setting are not stable ,and after repeated washing
cycle it normally reoccurs.
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Spirality
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Calculation
Percentage change in spirality can be
represented as follows.
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Facing up
It can be defined as unwanted surface fiber
leading to change in the appearance of the
garment.
Knit fabric made from woolen yarns generally
are finished to create fuzzy / hairy surface and
during wear/abrasion the reverse effect is
sometime an issue.
It can occur all over garment or in localized area.
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Facing up
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Facing up
Reason : gradual withdrawal of fibers from
surface layer of yarns (migration) and can in
many cases lead to pilling.
Facing up tend to occur abrasion resistance are
such as during tumble drying.
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Facing up
The tendency to facing up depends upon several
factor ,very similar with pilling
Fiber length : short / broken fiber migrate easily.
Fiber diameter: finer fiber tends to be shorter & thus
more likely to migrate.
Yarn twist : low/irregular twist perform migration
Cover factor: high density increase inter fiber friction
Fabric softener: to much softener reduces inter fiber
friction and permit fiber migration .
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Cockling & loop distortion
Cockling : An Irregular surface effect caused by loop
distortion.
In general its appear in localized groups of distorted
knitted loops which have twisted out of the symmetrical
configuration .
Generally on plain knit structure and specially in yarns
spun from animal fiber such as wool or mohair .
Worsted yarn is more prone to cockling because no
milling treatment is carried out in finishing .
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Type of cockling
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Panel edge cockling :
Difference in the relaxed dimension of
neighboring structure.
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Random all over cockling :
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Reason for cockling
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Reason for cockling
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