COLOUR TECHNOLOGY IN

TEXTILE DYEING AND

PRINTING

Wan Yunus Wan Ahmad

WORKSHOP ON TEXTILES AND

LEATHER, KIMIA MALAYSIA, MOSTI
28 November 2006
IMAGINE THE WORLD WITHOUT
COLOUR
COLOUR DESCRIPTION

HUE
CHROMA
VALUE
VISIBLE SPECTRUM
How Do We See Colour?

Perception of Colours
involves the object, the observer, the light
and the brain to translate the message
Our Eyes and Interpretation of Colour

The light which

enters the eye
falls on the
retina which
consist of rods
and cones.
Rods for light
and dark
interpretation
and cones for
coloured
interpretation
 DYES & PIGMENTS

Dyes - soluble or disperse and able to penetrate fibres polymer

system
Pigments insoluble and unable to penetrate the polymer
system. Just on the surface and attach to the fibres with the help
of binder. Bigger molecules than dye molecules.
 Dyes and Pigments
Pigments
Dyes
- Inorganic and organic
- Organic - on the surface of fibers
- Enter the polymeric - not substantive to
system fibers
- substantive to certain - insoluble
fibers Three Main Components in
- soluble or disperse in printing Pigment,
water Thickener and Binder
Two Main Components in
printing Dye
and Thickener
 Dyeing Theory
Most of the fibers immersed in
water will develop negative
surface charges
Substantivity Dyes and fibers
must posess substantivity to
each other
Adsorption moving of dyes
from the dyebath to the surface
of fiber
aBsorption dye molecules
move inside the fibers polymeric
system
EQUILIBRIUM State
Choices of dyestuffs may depend on
1. Price
2. Non-toxic
3. Compatible to other dyes and chemicals
4. High color strength
5. Better brightness
6. Better fastness
7. Good levelness on the materials
 Classification of Dyes
Classification by Solubility soluble, disperse
Classification by their method of Application
Acid, Basic, Disperse, reactive, Vat, Direct, Azoic
(Naphthol), Sulphur
Classification by their chemical constitution
Azo,Carbonyl, Cyanine, Phthalocyanine,
Triphenylmethane
Dyes and Fibres
Cellulosics Proteins Synthetics
Direct Acid Disperse
Sulphur Reactive Nylon
Reactive Acid
Vat Disperse
Azoic Acrylic
Basic or
Cationic
Stages of Dyeing
Natural Man- Made

Mass Pigmentation
Gel Dyeing
Tow dyeing
Loose Stock Dyeing
Top Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing
Fabric Dyeing
Garment Dyeing
Dyeing Method
Mass pigmentation - batch
Gel Dyeing - batch
Loose stock batch and continuous
Top - batch and continuous
Tow - batch and continuous
Yarn Hank, Package, Beam
Fabric Jig, Winch, Jet, Beam
Garment Side paddle
Dyeing Machines
Dyeing Machines
Dyeing Machines - Yarn
Dyeing Machine - Yarn
Yarn Beam, Hank
Piece Beam
Piece Dyeing Jig, Winch
Piece Dyeing - Jet
Garment Dyeing
Colour Mixing
Subtractive Colour Mixing
Colourful World

CONJUGATION
AROMATIC
CHROMOPHORES
AUXOCHROMES
Spectrophometers
Viewing Cabinets
Metamerism
Metamerism
Metamerism
Metamerism
Metamerism
Colour Kitchen
Dispensing System
TEXTILE PRINTING
Textile Printing
Printing is an application of localised dye or
pigment in thickened form to a substrate to
generate a pattern or design. These patterns
may vary from simple geometric designs
(stripes, spots etc) in a single colour to very
complex designs in up to twenty or more
colours
Thickened pastes are used in printing to
ensure the colour adheres precisely to the
spot it has been applied to and does not
spread over the textile to destroy the definition
of the printed
Types of Printing
Direct hand screen, rotary
Transfer vapour phase, melt, film release
Special styles discharge, resist, devor,
pliss
Methods of Printing
Engraved Roller
Screen Printing
Transfer Printing
Jet Printing
Digital Printing
Stencil Printing
 Hand
Screen

Flat Bed

Engraved
Roller

Rotary
Development of Screen Printing
Stencil

Hand Screen
Semi Automatic
and Fully
Automatic Flat
Bed

Rotary
CAD/CAM Laser Engraver
Flatbed and Rotary
Batik Prints - Block
Batik Prints - Canting
Batik Prints
African Prints
 AFRICAN PRINTS

JAVA

Green
African Prints

Real wax resist

Resist
Prints
Types of Transfer Printing

Film Release

Vapour Phase

Melt

Semi Wet
Transfer Printing Machines

Continuous
 Transfer Printing Machines

Continuous Pressure Continuous Vacuum

Transfer Printing Machine Transfer Printing Machine
Jet & Carpet
 Polychromatic
JET PRINTING
DISPENSING
Digital
 Transfer Printing Machines

Continuous Pressure Continuous Vacuum

Transfer Printing Machine Transfer Printing Machine
 Polychromatic
JET PRINTING
Digital